Category: Italy

Rustici farm

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This farm was founded in 1954 by grandfather Giuseppe, while some years later, his son Giovanni Rustici, who we met at the farm, took over the farm. A few years ago, he in turn let his sons take charge of the farm, while he’s mainly occupied with growing organic vegetables and fruits and some other tasks. In fact, the farm is totally organic, meaning that they have to, among other things, avoid using pesticides and artificial fertilisers. In addition, the sons of Giovanni are living proof that also young people, or at least a few of them, dedicate themselves to agriculture.

During our visit, we were free to roam freeely around the farm while we were waiting for Giovanni Rustici to guide us. In the meantime, we went to a rudimentary fence inide of which a group of about 50 pigs were walking around freely. Two sows were lying on the ground, each of them nursing a group of piglets, which changed irregularly from suckling and running around here and there. Actually, I visited the Rustici farm at Easter in 2009 with another teacher from the Terramare language school. Then, Giuseppe Rustici, one of the sons of Giovanni mainly showed us how they were raising cattle for meat and milk.

A short distance from the pigs, young calves were inside a fence, lying on the ground and ruminating, while the youngest ones were inside tiny buildings, getting used to staying away from their mothers.

When Giovanni Rustici arrived, we paid a visit to the slaughterhouse where a worker was cutting up pig’s meat in order to make sausages. Next, we went to the farmhouse dairy where another worker was removing mould from the surface of cheeses by means of running water and a brush. We also went to the farm shop where the wife of Giovanni was selling products of the farm to a customer. She told us that they make various types of cheeses and yogurt twice or thrice a week.

Finally, we followed Giovanni to another part of the farm where a huge ox called Palino was grazing all by himself on a field. Giovanni picked up some fresh grass from the ground and held it out for the ox to eat it. Having approached Giovanni, he got some fresh grass and a caress on his big, shaggy forehead.

Next, we followed Giovanni to a quite big field some kilometres from the farm where he’s in charge of growing a wide range of vegetables organically. Some of the vegetables were growing in greenhouses, but the major part was growing outside. During our visit, a worker was collecting celery and Giovanni put on his belt with a knife and whetstone, doing the same type of work for some time. He also showed us that these plants are full of fibres by dividing them longitudinally.

Next, we followed Giovanni to other parts of the field, which looked surprisingly well tended given that it was in the middle of November. Lots of varieties of vegetables were growing in rows, while I had expected that the field would lie more or less fallow until next spring. During our visit, there were some ibis birds, which were eating parasites from the plants, according to Giovanni. It’s worth having a look at this photo, which shows the impressive range of fruits and vegetables grown at this farm.

All the vebetables, which are being grown on these fields, are sold in the well-assorted farm shop together with meat from their cows and pigs together with milk, cheese, yogurt, olive oil, red wine, various types of pasta and so on where all of it has been made at this farm.

05/11/2016
La Scapigliata farm
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Going north on the Via Aurelia, we turned right when we were approaching the village of Talamone, then we passed the hamlet of Fonteblanda and going to the top of a small hill, we came to a group of buildings,. Having passed them, we were met by the owners of the La Scapigliata farm, Aurelia and her husband, who received us warmly. The name of the farm, meaning dishevelled, is derived from the former owner, who called the hair of his daughter scapigliata due to the ever-present wind.

Obviously, the owners of this farm love their work, which besides running the farm, has included restoring farm buildings dating from the 1900s in a skillful and original way. This work has been run by the owner Aurelia, who is an architect. It is striking how the huge building, which houses the restaurant and the spacious kitchen, was originally used for storing forage and hay, agricultural machines together with various products required to run a large cattle farm. She has also overseen the restoration of the barn, which was used to house cattle, The big trusses supporting the wooden roof are clearly visible, thw walls are covered with plaster and painted white, wooden boards cover the floor, all done with exquisite workmanship. Else, the troughs from which the cattle were eating, inclined floors with chutes made by red ceramic tiles and robust pillars supporting the trusses complemented our impression.

Moreover, there is an exhibition of Etruscan jewellery made by two local goldsmiths who tried to make exact copies of originals residing in museums, using only the techniques and tools, which were available to the Etruscans more than 2000 years ago. This prevented the goldsmiths from using any kind of magnifiers and not exceeding a temperature of 400°C, far below the melting point of gold.

Next, we entered the huge building, housing the restaurant and the adjacent, open kitchen where the husband of Aurelia had already started preparing our meal. During the preparation, we were free to follow and even photograph his activities. After some time, lunch was ready and we had the following menu:
- bruschetta with olive oil and garlic
- starter based on sheep’s cheese stored in pomace of Morellino together with various products from the farm
- soup with fresh vegetables and legumes
- pasta with tomatoes and basil
- beef stew
- peach pie
- digestive – Amaro Etrusco
In the tourist season from May to September, guests can also eat outside, weather permitting. In addition, jazz bands perform outside some weekends, making the experience of the guests even better.

We could also visit the following:
- the olive grove which had been harvested as early as September in order to avoid the olive fruit fly , which deposits eggs inside the olives in October. The olive grove consists of various types of olive trees whose olives mature at different times, leading to various degrees of maturation at harvest time.
- the vineyard, which was planted three years ago and has only given a tiny amount of wine for private consumption so far.
- A garden with solanales, legumes, strawberries, vegetables, cucurbita and aromatic herbs. Naturally, some of the produce from the garden is used in the kitchen as ingredients for meals for visitors.
Moreover, black pigs are raised at this farm (a cross between the race Large Black pig, Nero dei Nebrodi from Sicily and the local Nero Amiatino. About 50 adults and about 20 piglets which have been weaned are kept inside separate fences, while the smallest ones are staying with their mothers. The pigs are slaughtered when they are about 2 years old and weighing about 150 kilogrammes.

We also visited a group of adult pigs, which could roam freely inside a wide fence, but they had to stay inside an enclosure from dusk to dawn. Upon arrival, the pigs were hardly visible, but a worker called them, making them approach us after a short time. Mostly, they kept their snouts close to the ground, always searching for food.

It was a great pleasure to visit this farm.
04/11/2016
Seafood auction in Porto Santo Stefano

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Having arrived at the port of the town of Santo Stefano at sunset, we could see fishermen’s ships moored to the dock and fishermen who were sorting and sprinkling the day’s catch at the stern of the ships. The fish was sorted in 3 classes: first, second and third according to species, weight and various other characteristics. When everything was ready, the fish was brought in white styrofoam boxes filled with ice and brought by car to a large building where an auction would take place.

The contents of the boxes vary from fish like mackerel and mullet, more or less mixed (considered as a delicacy for those who like an Italian dish, which is called «fritto misto». As noted here, it consists of a mixture of cod, mullet, sole, Mediterranean scaldfish, while small fry of anchovies, rock goby and picarel may also be included; other species include giant, red shrimp of prime quality, scampi and musky octopus, all of which is put in rows of white boxes on the top of pallets placed on the floor of a big hall. After a pallet had been filled with boxes full of seafood, an auctioneer assessed the maximum price of the seafood according to species of prime quality and the minimum price determined by the same species of the lowest quality. In addition to the auctioneer, the pallet was surrounded by buyers coming from far and wide in Italy, getting ready to make their offers. The buyers buy the seafood wholesale and they sell their goods to retailers, restaurants, fishmongers, etc.

All the time people were talking loudly, even shouting and gesticulating while the seafood, which was placed in three rows on each pallet, gradually was bought by the highest bidder. The contrast with the Fish central in Oslo, Norway could hardly have been greater. There, workers were just collecting seafood according to customers’ orders, while no buyers were present.

After a successful purchase, workers would cover the fish with ice, package everything in adhesive plastic, make a label with the name of the buyer, the date, the weight and other data on a computer, print it and attach it to the package. Apparently, this is necessary to guarantee that what the wholesalers will be offering to buyers, located at various destinations and markets in Italy, is genuine, .

During the auction, the auctioneer tried naturally to obtain as high a price as possible, but when he couldn’t get the minimum price he asked for, the corresponding crates were taken off the pallet and put on another one. When the auction was finished, the crates would be packaged as described above. The remaining seafood would be sold at local markets, restaurants, fishmongers and even to local people.

Since fish needs to be consumed shortly after having been caught, everything is done efficiently, setting strict requirements to the fishermen, the auctioneer, the wholesalers and the workers who make the auction possible.

03/11/2016
Agrotourism Doganella

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In order to arrive at Agritourism Doganella, we had to pass a driveway with large stone pine trees on both sides. Due to to trees’ shallow roots, it felt more like driving on a potato field than on a road. Anyway, it’s always a pleasure to pass under such lovely trees which almost formed a roof above the road. After about 200 metres we arrived at a bend leading between two houses where we could see a sign indicating how to arrive at the guesthouse. Next, we met the owners, Alvido Brillo and his wife. Alvido told us about the beginning of his life when his mother wasn’t able to nurse him, feeding him donkey’s milk instead since it’s quite close to human breast milk. History repeated itself recently when a niece of his was born prematurely and her mother wasn’t able to nurse her. Instead, Alvido brought milk from one of his goats to his little niece, who started growing normally. In fact, Alvido is breeding a small flock of goats consisting of six goats, one male goat and 5-6 kids. This contributes to show the passion Alvido feels for animals, which he has been breeding since he was a young boy.

For the last seven years, he has been raising goats which enriches the atmosphere of the agrotourism and his life, but earlier he worked only with sheep, keeping an enormous herd of 1000 sheep. He’s 77 years old and he has fond memories of spending 7 hours a day, 4 in the morning and 3 in the evening milking the sheep by hand. There were also three donkeys in a separate enclosure, one of which was only a few days old and which approached us in order to get caressed.

During his life, he has won numerous prizes and certificates of merit from local and national organisations for pastoralism and for participating at fairs.

Towards the evening, it was time to milk the goats. Then, Alvido put feed in a trough, next he let the goats enter and start eating by first passing their heads through a metal structure, which was attached to the trough. When all of them had entered, he locked the structure such that they had to stay put. Then, he milked them one by one, filling a kettle with milk. When he was finished, the goats were released.

Having a large supply of pumpkins, he divided a couple of them with an axe and gave them to the kids, while he fed the goats with fodder.

Afterwards, Alvido kindly invited us to enter their kitchen where he started making goat’s cheese from the fresh milk. He told us about his life as a shepherd and he showed us his prizes hanging in the living room. It was a great pleasure meeting Alvido and his wife Oriana, who is in charge of the guesthouse.

For those who are interested in archaeology, there is an Etruscan building on the property, open for being visited by all their guests.

02/11/2016
Fatarelli Agriculture

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A small company called Fatarelli Agriculture is located in a large brick building in the countryside of Capalbio Scalo where a local woman was running the company, while workers from Eastern Europe were sorting and putting artichokes in boxes. The manager told us that she had tried to employ local people without success because they aren’t willing to sow, plant, cultivate, harvest and put the harvest in boxes. Instead, workers from Eastern Europe willingly do this work, they do it well and they are willing to work long hours and even on days off if really required.

This company cultivates asparagus, melon, eggplant, courgette, tomato and more on open fields.

The high season lasts from May to September, but work is done all year, while the number of workers of course vary in accordance with demand. In addition to cultivating local products, this company also buys and sells agricultural products from other parts of Italy. In fact, during our visit workers were packing artichokes, which had been grown in Sardinia where the warmer climate leads to that they mature in late October/early November.

We were invited to watch two workers from Romania harvest courgette, which they brought back to the company for packaging.

This company distributes agricultural produce to markets in Tuscany and to other regions like Emilia.

02/11/2016
Harvesting olives

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In the hills above the village of Porto Ercole, the Fois family, who originally came from Sardinia, lives in a property called Spaccamontagna in the area of «La Marchesa». In 1980, Mr. Fois planted a small olive grove, which 36 years later, gives a large amount of olives.

During our visit, he showed us how, by holding an olive branch shaped like a Y, he could find a water source below ground. Initially, the branch was horizontal, but the end of the branch folded towards the ground as he approached the water source. By finidng water on his own property, he could water the olive trees for all these years in an area, which has in general far too little rain. In fact, I was told by several olive growers and owners of olive oil mills that 2016 was pretty dry and that the olive harvest was very limited. However, the overall quality was really good.

He also showed us how he captured olive fruit flies, which deposits eggs inside the olives, destroying them. In order to avoid using pesticides, he used simple, but efficient traps instead.

One of these traps was made of a flat sheet of green plastic, letting it hang from a branch on an olive tree and applying a sticky substance to each side of the plastic sheet. Since the substance was attractive to the olive fruit flies, they landed on the plastic sheet, but they coudn’t leave. We saw several of these traps covered with flies. Another trap consisted of plastic bottles, which were hanging on a wall next to the olive grove. All the bottles were partly filled with a liquid, which attracted the flies, while slightly above the liquid, there was a small hole, letting the flies enter the bottle easily, but nearly impossible to get out again. Then, sooner or later, they would drown in the liquid.

Regarding harvesting the olives, a net was put below the olive trees, then they used a machine with moving parts and powered by a car battery to make the olives fall down on the net. In addition, in one of the olive trees, three person were forcing the olives to fall down on a net below the olive tree by holding their hands around a branch with olives and forcing them to fall down.

Before we left, the Fois family generously invited us to a meal consisting of bruschetta with olive oil, prosciutto, cheese and red wine. A very nice and delicious way of finishing our visit.

01/11/2016
Snail farm

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In a place called Ciocciolo di Capalbio on a property owned by 4 brothers, one of the owners has started raising snails of the race Helix Aspera since May 2016. Being new to raising snails, the family first went to a course at the International Snail Breeding Institute of Cherasco, Piemonte, Italy.

The field on which the snails are raised is divided into several rectangular shapes and all of them are surrounded by nets with a very small net size. In addition, there is a net below ground in order to prevent the snails from digging tunnels below the fences. Moreover, there are also a net on the top of each fence in order to both prevent the snails from scaling the fences and escaping and as a means of hindering birds from taking them.

As the average temperature gets lower in autumn, the snails dig small burrows below ground, in which they stay lethargic from November to March when spring arrives. The owners have planted chicory and cabbage inside the fences such that the snails can eat whenever they like, but in order to supplement their diet, the owners have planted sunflowers and chili pepper, both of which are eaten with relish by these terrestrial molluscs.

When the snails become lethargic, the owners will cut down all the plants inside the fences such that they protrude 5 cm maximum above the ground. Additionally, the owners told had already started preparing an adjacent field to which the snails will be transferred in March 2017 where they can eat fresh plants.

The first harvest of the snails will be done manually in June 2017 when their shells will have become rather hard. Since the mortality of the snails is quite high, the owners will try to compensate the loss by means of the increased request for another product from the snails: slime. In fact, the slime of these animals is used both for cosmetics and medicinal purposes.

The International Snail Breeding Institute of Cherasco has made a machine, which extracts the slime of the snails without hurting them. Thus, before the snails are sold, their slime will be extracted, giving this family an additional income.

There is also a radio interview with the institute here.

01/11/2016
Olive oil mill «Terre di Capalbio»
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The olive oil mill «Terre di Capalbio» in the village of Borgo Carige is run by the Nannini family, who bought it in 2003. The village is situated between the coast and the medieval castle of Capalbio in a region mainly used for growing olives and vines, stretching from the lowlands near the Tyrrhenian sea to rolling hills with olive groves overlooking the village of Capalbio,

Nannini senior had worked in agriculture for many years and he was also teaching at an agricultural school, but decided to run an olive oil mill instead, buying it from the previous owner who had run it for more than 15 years.

Having bought the olive oil mill, all the machinery has been replaced with computer-controlled machines. Since there has been an olive oil mill in this place for a very long time and the producers live nearby, there is a strong and friendly bond between the Nannini family and the olive farmers.

After the olives have arrived at the olive oil mill, they are sprinkled to get rid of dust and other impurities. Next, instead of crushing the olives with the drupes, they are removed before crushing, leading to that the resulting olive oil is less sour than crushing the complete olives, while increasing the fruity flavour at the same time.

Three different types of olive oil for meat, fish and generic, respectively, are produced at this company:
- “L’Olio del Presidente
- “Bio-Logico“
- “Terre di capalbio”
In addition to the Nannini family, a secretary does all administrative work and takes care of all requests and rules, which have to be followed according to EU regulations.

As at all olive oil mills, this one is only in operation for about a month a year, that is from late October to late November. For the rest of the year, the Nannini family occupy themselves with selling their products, cultivating their own olive grove of about 1000 olive trees and running a shop adjacent to the olive oil mill where they sell their olive oil and some other high quality farm products.

Due to little rain and high temperatures, the olive harvest of 2016 was quite low, while the quality was high.
31/10/2016
Jacobelli liquori
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Jacobelli liquori is owned by the Jacobelli family, parents and children and it was founded about 100 years ago, producing ice cream and other types of sweet food. Next, they gradually turned to producing liqueurs and distilled beverages instead.

Upon entering this company, visitors arrive in the shop where all the products made by this company are for sale. Then, by entering further, they will arrive at the production hall where the products are made.

A liqueur is an alcoholic beverage made from a distilled spirit that has been flavored with fruit, cream, herbs, spices, flowers or nuts and bottled with added sugar or other sweetener (such as high-fructose corn syrup).

Production of liqueurs at this firm depends on how mature the added fruits are. In addition, fruit peels are used and an infusion, consisting of water, sugar, yeast and caramel is made.

Some of the liqueurs made at this company include:
- nocino – infusion of nut shells.
- limoncello – bits of lemon peel is stored in alcohol, then peels of other citrus fruits are added, next mixed with a syrup consisting of water and sugar.
- Arancello – infusion of bits of orange peel
- rosolio – based of essential oils, which are extracted from roses
- acquasanta – infusion of herbs
- Sambuca alle Centerbe – essential oils from crushing coffeee beans are mixed with alcohol, giving it a dark colour.
- Amaretto – infusion of bitter almonds
- mirto – an infusion of myrtle berries and leaves
A distilled beverage is an alcoholic beverage produced by distillation of a mixture produced from alcoholic fermentation. This process purifies it and removes diluting components like water, for the purpose of increasing its proportion of alcohol content (commonly expressed as alcohol by volume,

Distilled beverages or spirits are only made in autumn due to availability of pomace, that is the skins, pulp, seeds, and stems, left over from winemaking after pressing the grapes.

Grappa is produced by another company in Trentino Alto Adige where it is matured in oak barrels.

Jacobelli liquori is a small producer and no chemicals are added in order to let the taste always be the same. Thus, it varies with season, weather and so on.

Interestingly, the sizes and the shapes of the bottles vary a lot, ranging from tiny ones containing a few millilitres to up to one litre.

Many tourists spend their holidays in this area and they often buy the products of this company, but the competition is very high. This has led to that the Jacobelli family want to expand their production and sell to a wider market. Unfortunately, during our visit no production was made because the fruits which which are used to make liqueurs had already been harvested at the time of our visit in November. However, it was a great pleasure to receive some bottles as a gift.
31/10/2016
Agrialbergo Capalbio

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The main activity of Abgrialbergo Capalbio, which was founded in 1994, is agrotourism: small buildings spread around a rural area house 30 rooms, which are available from March to September to a large number of both Italians and foreigners.

Being placed in these pleasant surroundings, both the sea and the natural wonders of this part of southern Tuscany are within reach, while many other coastal places have been ruined by concrete.

Moreover, the natural beauty of Maremma is complemented by a rich variety of archaeological remains from pre-history, the Etruscans and the Romans.

Situated at the base of rolling hills typical of Maremma on a fertile plain, which the Romans called «the Golden valley» due to its huge productivity of agricultural produce and the sandy coast of Maremma: walls; towers, terraces, porches, which formed parts of Roman villas; Roman estates were built on top of the hills both to house the Roman nobility and to control the peasants who were cultivating the land and looking after domestic animals like cattle, sheep and pigs, both of which were the base of the economy; there were building to house peasants, artisans, slaves and lords. Nowadays, Romans still have second homes in this area, but they are also joined by northern Europeans together with tourists from other rich countries. There is also Lago di Burano which is a lake famous for its birdlife,

Anyway, we went to this place in order to see how this agrotourism also cultivate the land, growing cereals close by and pomegranate trees next to some of the houses. Although pomegranates don’t reach maturity in late October, the ones which were growing next to the house had somehow become ripe early and the owners showed us how they picked the fruits by cutting the stems by means of a pair of pliers.

Walking around the farm, the owner showed us a large solar cell array for generating current and another one for heating water. He also told us that the olive trees growing on the hills overlooking this place belonged to this farm.

In another field located a short drive away, there was a one hectare field of pomegranate trees, which had been planted only 3 years ago, but had already started producing almost fully-grown pomegranates. The reason for this apparent quick growth is probably due to that he had bought saplings and not seeds from a nursery in Pistoia.

After having harvested the pomegranates, they are sold both wholesale and directly to consumers and to factories where the pomegranates are turned into juice.. Pomegranate juice is highly regarded and much sought after and many people consider it as a natural remedy against various diseases.

There was also a field of blueberries and raspberries near the field of pomegranate trees, but they didn’t produce any berries yet because they had been planted recently.

31/10/2016
Tupei farm and guesthouse
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We are on the island of Sant’Antioco connected to Sardinia by means of a bridge, near the town of Calasetta, situated along a slope in the north-west of the island and partially encircled by white beaches and the sea. The ancient name of Calasetta, Cala di Seta, meaning Bay of Silk derives its name from production of sea silk, a marine type of silk which is extracted from a bivalve mollusc called Pinna nobilis.

The Tupei farm and guesthouse is located in the hillside above Calasetta, about 2 km from the town and about 1200 m from the sea. It was bought by Michele and Silvana Puxeddu in the 1990s, both of who weren’t working as farmers in advance. He was setting up dropped ceilings and wall decors, while she was working with graphics for advertising. Having decided to change their lifestyles completely, they left their jobs and selected a life following age-old traditions and offering hospitality to their guests.

Having parked at the entrance of the Tupei property, we first passed a group of horses looking at us expectantly before meeting Silvana, Michele and their dog Aprile. In addition to horses, they also raise goats, almost all them very curious when we visited them. They also had a few chickens which were free to go wherever they wanted. Besides, they are cultivating olives, vines, vegetables and fruits organically, all of which are served in the guesthouse.

Being very conscious and attentive, Silvana and Michele had decided before our arrival to join a project intending to let farmers themselves control their own seeds. Instead, the international development tends towards multinational companies selling the same types of seeds to farmers, minimising diversity, and requiring pesticides made by other multinational companies.

Luckily, at the same time as our short visit to the island of Sant’Antioco, a group of courageous women from a local agency called Laore, which occupies itself with rural development and an organisation called Domusamigas arrived shortly after us, bringing many types of seeds in their car in order to start the project. On our walk to a nearby field, they explained that Michele and Silvana had decided to take part in a genetic and evolutionary improvement of seeds developed and selected by the renowned professor Salvatore Ceccarelli with the objective to turn control of seeds to farmers, safeguarding local seeds and increasing biodiversity.

Having arrived at the field, which was already prepared by Michele, he set out to divide it into 40 equally sized rectangles being helped by the women from Laore and Domusamigas together with my guide. Using a masonry chisel and a mallet, he hammered the chisel into the ground near one corner of the field, then using a tape measure, he located the second corner of the plots. Next, he started making a line perpendicular to the first line. In order to verify that the lines were perpendicular, he and one of his helpers used the Pythagorean theorem. Actually, it was a pleasure to see this theorem applied to a real problem for the first time in my life. Having ascertained the angles and the dimensions, the women poured chalk along each line. Unfortunately, the planting of the seeds would take place another day, meaning that we couldn’t be present. All in all, 17 types of seeds should be planted, two of them local and two hybrids, some of them new, some of them old. All in all, three farms in Sardinia participate in this project and it will be done for several years.

The objectives of the project in which Silvana and Michele participate are the following:
- rediscover the evolutionary capability of local seeds.
- hand back production and selection of seeds to farmers.
- learn new techniques in order to increase biodiversity without using artificial fertilisers.
- promote and facilitate collaboration between research institutes and farmers.
- identify which seeds are most adapted to this land and environment.
- reproduce and improve ancient seed varieties leading to increased biodiversity, autonomy and better health for farmers due to not using pesticides.
- let the plants create new varieties by cross-breeding like what has happened since agriculture began.
Professor Ceccarelli is known for his programmes of genetic improvement in which farmers are selecting and planting seeds together with scientists. The work of professor Ceccarelli together with other scientists, the International Center for Agricultural Research in the Dry Areas (ICARDA), has led to greater biodiversity and larger yields of crops in dry areas

According to him we have to learn that “the seed is the foundation of life, food, and agriculture. However, farmers, who have been safeguarding and improving seeds since agriculture began, have been excluded from the production of seeds in the space of a few years. This exclusion has harmed everyone: farmers, agricultural research, our diets and the earth’s biodiversity. We have to make farmers cultivate various types of seeds for biodiversity, for themselves, for a secure food supply, and for the future”.

We are grateful to Silvana and Michele Puxeddu for their hospitality and generosity and for letting us be present at such an important moment in their lives.
03/11/2014
Il Paradiso farm and guesthouse

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Going from Carbonia towards Cagliari, we turned slightly to the right a few kilometres from Carbonia, then having passed under the same road below a bridge, we arrived at Il Paradiso after a short trip on gravel roads.

Upon our arrival, we came to a a wide and slightly undulating garden with trees like holm oak, cork oak and strawberry tree together with shrubs like Phillyrea and broom alternating with small stands of maple trees while roses, pomegranates and quince trees were scattered around the property. There were also apartments for their guests, a large dining room next to a big kitchen and houses for the residents.

This farm was founded in 1955 when Vito Minaudo bought a piece of land at Barega near the town of Carbonia with the intention of growing vineyards and making wine. Now, it is managed by Vito’s son, Tommaso Minaudo who together with his wife and their daughter Francesca have continued and extended the work started by Vito.

We were met by Tommaso Minaudo who guided us around his family’s property. Ascending a small hill, we walked along a path with groves of mastic on both sides where we could sense rather intense aromas coming from the abundant vegetation. It felt good being in a serene place filled with colours and aromas reminding us about paradise and is probably the reason why this farm is called il Paradiso or the Paradise.

The members of the Minaudo family obviously have a calling for agriculture and feel a strong attachment to their land. They are cultivating olive trees, vines, many types of vegetables and fruits besides raising chickens, ducks, geese, turkeys, guinea-fowls, rabbits, hares together with a few horses and donkeys and a flock of Tibetan goats.

The Minaudo family also receive local children and youths intending to make them interested in or at least acquainted with agriculture and animal husbandry. Thus, il Paradiso is also an educational farm collaborating with local schools and letting the pupils cultivate their own vegetables. Tommaso proudly showed us the results of the children’s work from spring to autumn. They had planted seeds of tomatoes, courgettes/zucchinis and eggplants/aubergines and tended the vegetables such that they were ready to be harvested.

Crop rotation is practised at il Paradiso in order to replenish the soil with nutrients, improving soil strucure and soil fertility.

Excellent and delicious products, produced at this and nearby farms, are turned into delicious dishes for their guests and served in the grand dining room. Besides, their hospitality makes their guests feel welcome and they are returning repeatedly. A small swimming pool together with a small chute also makes this place attractive for families with children.

01/11/2014
Sant’Agostino farm

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On the lowlands of Barega near the town of Carbonia, we meet Antonio Cadeddu, drawing on his ancestors, his calling, the local environment and local traditions, has planted a wide variety of vegetables in greenhouses and in open air. He’s also raising a flock of sheep.

Antonio has a strong attachment to his land, but he’s also very attached to his animals, and he feels like more a shepherd than a farmer.

Having entered the greenhouse where Antonio has been cultivating beans, he explains that all the bean plants have failed and all his work has been in vain. All the plants have to be uprooted, the soil has to be prepared again, the artificial irrigation must be rearranged and new plants have to be replanted one by one. Strong heat caused a very quick growth of the stems, leading to that it wasn’t possible to prune them in time. This made them bend over towards the soil, making them wither.

Anyway, he doesn’t seem to be the least disturbed by this, making us understand that he has already taken it into account and that he just has to accept it, unforeseen events happen, you just have to be decisive and react fast.

He also cultivates three different types of tomatoes: cherry tomatoes, red bunch tomatoes, and round salad tomatoes. Growing tomatoes gives him lots of satisfaction even though they need constant attention because they are subject to various diseases and parasites.

Antonio also explains with confidence the characteristics of the plants he is cultivating: beans, tomatoes, squash/courgette/zucchini, pumpkins, etc. Pumpkins can be grown outside, they are resistant against diseases and heat and able to absorb nutrients like nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium from the soil. He explains the lives of the plants and their characteristics thoroughly, including how to counteract that the plants get ill and how to cure them of specific diseases. Continuous attention to parasites and symptoms of diseases are necessary for the whole life of the plants. Thus, only plant varieties, which are adapted to the environment, should be cultivated. Systematic controls of the plants have to be done and, regarding tomato plants, the leaves in particular. In case of symptoms of disease, immediate precautions should be taken, else the disease may spread to adjacent plants, then to all of them.

He also describes the main symptoms of diseases, but emphasises that continuous attention and prompt action in case of diseases is the the only way to halt them.

One of the most common parasites is the whitefly. They introduce toxic saliva inside the leaves, leading to that they can also bring viruses and bacteria. Besides, they secrete honeydew, which encourages mold growth.

The plants can also be attacked by fungi, but they can be identified early upon close inspection.

It seems like Antonio is as concerned about the welfare of the plants as he is about his animals. Obviously, he’s very passionate about both of them.

Additionally, he has built a huge cabin nearby, in the same way as shepherds were doing in the past, consisting of wooden poles embedded in the ground with branches linking the poles.

Inside the cabin there is a large collection of tools, objects, and utensils used in the past in order to cultivate and harvest agricultural products as well as to do various practical activities typical for this region.

A pleasant smell of coffee fills this unpretentious ethnographic museum where Antonio’s wife, Rita, is preparing coffee for us and their friends. If we had yielded to curiosity, observing tool by tool, being lectured by Antonio on the use of each one, in addition to staying in this hospitable atmosphere, we could have stayed for hours. Instead, we left, but not before having been greeted by two Tibetan goats, one of them a male which seemed to want to tip me over. Being quite small, it was easy to resist.

01/11/2014
Su Forru ‘e su Pani bakery and confectionery

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Islands are known to house plants and animals, which don’t grow or live anywhere else. That is, they have a large biological diversity. A corollary to biological diversity on islands is cultural diversity on islands and the bakery “Su Forru ‘e su Pani” of Efisio Carta located in the town of Teulada in the south of Sardinia seems to confirm it.

We enter the “Su Forru ‘e su Pani” bakery about 9 in the evening where the Carta family, consisting of Efisio, his wife Assunta, their daughter Debora and her young daughter Vanessa together with a baker called Angelo, are making a bread called “su coccoi pintau”, turning dough into shapes like hedgehogs, flowers, crowns, etc.

Working from about 8 in the evening till about 6 in the morning, dozens of breads, bread rolls, and ritual breads, like coccoi, originally made for the most important religious feast days are made 6 nights a week. They also make a ritual bread called “the bread of the dead”, a fragrant, soft bread in memory of the dead to be shared with friends on All Souls’ Day, 2 November.

Coccoi is a typical Sardinian bread made for anniversaries, ceremonies, weddings, baptisms, and Easter. Making this type of bread require, after having quickly turned the dough into a complex shape by hand and a knife, a rapid sequence of cuts with a pair of scissors at predetermined points and with regular positions. Although these cuts are made for decoration, they also contribute to uniform baking, graduated surface colours with more or less intense nuances, and making the bread crunchy.

Little Vanessa, who is only 7 years old, is turning dough into complex shapes, deftly using her small hands. Her grandfather, Efisio, also started working in a bakery when he was a child, imitating the movements of his mother and grandmother. Originally, only women were baking in Sardinia, but now it seems like more men than women are working as bakers.

They also make a round and soft bread called “Sa Tunda”, which is typical for the town of Teulada. It’s a sourdough bread made from semolina shaped like a star with 7 points, one for every day of the week in order to mark the time between each time a bread was made. Another explanation is that it was baked by women whose husbands should spend a week in the mountains and they could eat one point every day.

At midnight, when only Efisio and Angelo are still working more or less continuously, manipulating, stretching, rolling, cutting, decorating, and flattening dough, marking their products with a stamp and putting them on a wooden board, covering them with cloths and letting them leaven in peace, putting the finished shapes in an oven by means of a long-handed shovel, taking them out when they are baked, putting the necessary ingredients in the kneader in order to produce more dough, etc. Briefly, they are working hard.

While Angelo is working quietly, Efisio is working dexterously and quickly, while talking at the same time. He has been working as a baker for about 40 years and he started making breads when he was 12. While he is busily shaping the dough, he is talking about how he is canoeing, fishing squid, and making stone statues of local rocks in his spare time. Thus, he’s shaping dough at work and stone off work like a sculptor. He also looks younger than his age and he’s obviously full of energy, mental and physical.

We leave some time after midnight and come back next morning, enter the shop next to their bakery, where Debora, the young daughter of Efisio and Assunta is selling the last “breads of the dead”, while the rest has already been sold.

Only the the fragrance of the breads is remaining together with a feeling of a pleasant expectation because tomorrow the shop will be full of other fragrant delicacies.

31/10/2014
S’Arxola farm and guesthouse

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Having passed through the town of Teulada and going eastwards, we turn left at a crossroads a couple of kilometres outside the town and follow a gravel road for about a kilometre in a lovely and apparently fertile landscape. Then, we arrive at S’Arxola, an educational farm and guesthouse where we meet Fulvio outside the small house he has built for his family on the top of a small hill.

Just a short distance from their house, another house in neutral colours is located between an olive grove and climbing Mediterranean scrub. Inside the house, there are small, but airy apartments for lucky guests who choose to spend their vacations in this tranquil place located a short distance from the sea and surrounded by Mediterranean fragrances and colours.

The property is located in a hilly terrain surrounded by forests, olive groves and small bushes, while it also has grassy fields on which numerous ducks and hens are free to roam.

By common agreement, Fulvio and his wife Emma decided to change their life and stay in contact with nature. It started when his wife from Bologna was doing her PhD on forest sciences in Florence, while he, who is born and raised in Sardinia, was studying architecture in the same city, gradually started thinking about living in the countryside. They dreamed about creating an organic farm with a guesthouse and make a living with minimum impact on nature based on harvesting edibles from the surrounding vegetation. Reflecting on it and doing thorough searches, about 10 years ago they came to this place, which was in keeping with their wishes, and they decided to buy it. It is called S’Arxola ’e Sirboni, meaning “place frequented by wild boar” in Sardinian. Indeed, as Fulvio says: “the hill on which the farm is located and the surrounding hills were covered with dense oak forests (cork oak and holm oak whose berries are eaten by wild boar), which were destroyed during the last century and are being restored by himself and his wife.

The farm is equipped with solar cells in order to be self-sufficient with electrical energy. Since the solar cells produce more energy than is required on sunny days, the excess energy is stored in batteries. This farm is off grid such that Fulvio, his wife, their two daughters and their guests have to adapt their consumption of electrical energy in accordance with daily and seasonal changes of the sun.

A major activity of Fulvio and his wife is to restore the native vegetation whether it has been degraded or even totally removed. The aim is to both harvest fruits and berries, but also to extract essential oils, all of which has to be done according to the biological and seasonal characteristics of each plant. A description of using essential oils for aromatherapy can be found here.

In order to reduce the residents’ impact on the local environment and live in harmony with nature as far as possible, a field of common reeds is used as an artificial wetland to clean greywater. A list of other plants that can be used for the same purpose is given here.

Fulvio explains that the area, which is now covered by reeds, was first excavated in order to create a pit to receive greywater. Then, it was made impermeable by covering the pit with a layer of clay before filling it with fine gravel which works as a foundation on which has been planted a dense field of common reeds. The reeds perform several beneficial functions, but the most important one is to create oxygen-rich micro-zones along its roots where aerobic bacteria are able to decompose organic matter. This seemingly simple process is actually quite complex and those who want to know more can look here and here. The purified water can be used for irrigation or released to natural watercourses.

During our walk around the farm, Fulvio shows us various myrtle shrubs, but he plans to plant many more of them in order to produce myrtle liqueur. He also shows us numerous mastic bushes and trees. He’s following the growth of these plants closely because he wants to extract vegetable oil from the berries.

This humble brush, present along the coast of all the Mediterranean, was spread by man at least since the era of the Romans because it was used as a medicine, to flavour various kinds of food, as chewing gum, etc. In the past, vegetable oil extracted from mastic berries was known as poor people’s oil because they didn’t possess olive groves. Nowadays, mastic resin is still used as a flavouring, while essential oils are used for cosmetics and medicines.

Having been shown around the farm, Fulvio invites us inside his family’s kitchen, offering us home-made coffee, which we willingly accept. While we are enjoying the coffee, he tells us that he is also keeping bees, extracting honey in autumn, but leaving some amount such that the bees can survive the winter. He’s also telling how the farm is being run in a sustainable way, but there is always room for improvements. He’s working full time at the farm, while his wife is managing forests. Time passes quickly, it’s hot outside, songbirds are singing, else everything is quiet and it’s difficult to leave.

30/10/2014
Rubiu olive oil mill

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The Rubiu oil mill was founded in the 1950s by the father of the present owner, Nicoletta Rubiu. Already from the foundation, this oil mill used the the best available machinery making it the centre of olive oil production in the region of Sulcis-Iglisiente. The lowlands on which this oil mill is located are surrounded by gently, rolling hills and is ideal for growing olive trees and vines. Various olive cultivars are used in the production of olive oil, with Bosana the most commonly used. Another cultivar called “tonda di Cagliari” or “nera di Gonnos” is also grown together with “Pizz’ e Carroga” which are put whole in brine.

Having entered the oil mill, we also enter an atmosphere filled with a slightly bitter fragrance of olives which have been crushed and where small groups of women and men are waiting patiently for their olives to be turned into olive oil, chatting amicably, but impossible to perceive anything because of the noisy machinery. It’s the same atmosphere and the same sensations like in the past although we don’t any longer find the imposing granite millstone, which has been conserved with the care deserved for a historic monument. The bull, which made the millstone turn around while the olives were crushed, is gone. Likewise, all the locals who came to watch the yellow olive oil flowing out of the mill. However, Mediterranean fragrances are still produced like in the past, while only the owners of the olives are watching contentedly all the phases the olives have to pass through in order to be turned into the golden liquid, which serves as an indispensable ingredient for any dish on their tables from toasted bread topped with olive oil and chopped tomatoes to various salads, from sauces to stews.

The olives from each owner are first placed in square boxes waiting to be placed in a flippable trolley. Having filled the trolley with olives, it is flipped such that all the olives fall into a container with a funnel at its base. When the time is right, the funnel is opened such that the olives fall down on a conveyor belt with parallel tracks which prevent the olives from falling down. Instead, the conveyor belt brings them upwards until they fall down into a machine, which removes foreign bodies like leaves and branches, which inevitably follow the olives from the harvest. Then, the olives are cleaned by means of running water in order to remove any remaining impurities before entering the olive-press where they are crushed, turning them into a mix of oily and fragrant mush together with hard fragments from the stones inside the olives. This mix is transferred to adjacent containers where rotating blades make it more uniform before it enters a centrifuge where solid and liquid parts are separated. The wooden residues from the stones, which are heavier than the liquid parts, are expelled. The liquid parts, consisting of water and oil are separated because they have different densities. After having filtered the oil, it is collected in a container, ready to be bottled and brought home by the owners. The wooden residues from the stones can be used in various ways like feed for pigs or poultry or compost for enriching soil. Alternatively, they may be separated and turned into pellets for heating.

29/10/2014
Fishermen’s cooperative of Porto Pino

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A short distance from the renowned, white dunes of Porto Pino, the lagoon of Porto Pino is located. A canal, which connects the lagoon and the sea, has been partially blocked by a barrier made by a cooperative of fishermen. Like the lagoon at Nora, young fish, which are born in the sea, seek safety and easy access to food in the lagoon. There, they grow up until their instincts make them return to the sea to spawn because the variable salinity and temperature of the lagoon will prevent the fertilised fish eggs from hatching. Before they can go back to the sea, they have to pass the canal where the fishermen have set up a barrier stretching across the whole width of the canal. Having a polygonal shape and being made of vertical bars which have been embedded in the sea bed, the barrier is easy to enter because it has an opening like a funnel, but difficult to exit. Besides, the mature fish try to cross the canal at high tide when there is a current from the sea to the lagoon. Then, the fish will only swim against the current and won’t return even though it would be possible to escape the barrier.

The movement of fish from the sea to the lagoon and vice versa has been known to man for millennia and their way of fishing is similar to that which has been practised since time immemorial.

Arriving at about 8 in the morning, we find Carlo and some of his colleagues inside the barrier, catching the fish by means of a hand-held net. One fisherman is standing still, holding one end of the net in the water, while another one is holding the net at the opposite end, walking slowly towards the first one, while gently contracting the space enclosed by the net. Finally, they meet and close the lower end of the net by means of a knot. Then, they carry it to an opening in the barrier where another fisherman is holding a bucket in which they empty the fish from the net. Finally, the fisherman on the outside brings the bucket with the fish back to the fishermen who are waiting for him on dry land.

Having lifted up the bucket, the fish is sorted. The most valuable fish, sea bass, is put in one bucket, while various species of sea bream, mullet, etc. are put in another one. Besides, fish which are too small are released into a large pond, connected to canal between the lagoon and the sea, but closed with a net such that they have to stay in the pond.

After the first selection, another selection is done in a large, quadratic and open box with perforated sides. The fish which were not sorted at the first selection are put in the box, water is poured over the fish, starting immediately to flow out of the holes in the side of the box. The fishermen sort the remaining fish quickly, putting them in styrofoam boxes and bringing them to a small shop where labels are put on each box. Locals are waiting for the fish to arrive at the shop and after having bought what they want, they return home with their “catch”.

Next morning, we are invited to join Raffaele and Samuele, father and son and both of them members of the cooperative, fishing in the lagoon near Porto Pino. Since we arrive early, Carlo willingly shows us how they fish in the lagoon. He holds some poles, which are sharpened in one end, and which are meant to be driven into the bed of the lagoon. The poles are connected by nets an he’s trying to explain how they are set up in order to trap fish. However, this completely new field for both of us, require more time to get acquainted with.

Having embarked a rowing boat, Raffaele is rowing, while Samuele is standing at the stern, ready to haul up traps, which have been placed on the bottom of the lagoon. It’s nice weather, the water is still and clear, only broken occasionally by the slow and delicate movement of the oars by Raffaele. They want to catch eel, a fish which prefers to move when it’s dark and stormy, according to Giovanni at the Fishermen’s Cooperative of Nora.

Slowly moving forward, we can see various contraptions in the water, that is the poles and nets Carlo showed us, together with some ropes. A trap is lying on the seafloor and Samuele pulls it up, unties the knot closing its end and empties the contents into a bucket. Then, he reties the knot and lets the trap back into the water. They repeat the same procedure 10-15 times, but the catch is small, indeed. Some gobies, a black scorpionfish and a couple of eels only.

Raffele has been a fisherman for more than 40 years and he kindly makes a sketch of how they set up traps in the lagoon. Firstly, the traps have to be set up perpendicularly to the movement of the fish. Secondly, the traps have to have a large opening, but there have to be obstacles if the fish should try to return. Thus, they set up the contraptions Carlo showed us such that they form two parallel V-shaped nets with a vertical net in between. The Vs form the obstacles for the fish. Having passed the opening, one net is placed obliquely on each side such that it gets gradually more narrow. A trap, consisting of a cylinder-shaped net with a funnel-shaped opening, is placed between the nets. Finally, a V-shaped net is placed behind the trap. This arrangement is repeated in a row extending from near the shoreline to about 200 metres into the lagoon. A coarse sketch is shown below.

Raffaele and Samuele tell us that they fish in the lagoon and the canal from October to March and from April to September in the sea. After having emptied and laid back all the traps, we return to the fishery where the other fishermen are sorting and selling fish, while the local cats are patiently waiting for a morsel.

We also meet Carlo again who explains that, in addition to being a feeding ground for small fry, the lagoon is also used to feed sea water to the salt works at Sant’Antioco. In May, when the fishermen start fishing in the sea, sea water is pumped into the lagoon, pushing large amounts of sea water via a canal to Sant’Antioco.

Finally, we say goodbye to the fishermen, all of them being open and friendly.

29/10/2014
Sa Tiria farm and guesthouse

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Sa Tiria is located on land where members of the same family have been cultivating fruits and vegetables besides raising sheep and pigs for more than 100 years. About 12 years ago, they decided to build a guest house together with an on-site restaurant, all of excellent quality.

The area of Sa Tiria amounts to about 150 hectares, including the guest house, houses for the family, a garden, a barn for the sheep, a pen and a small pool for the pigs, olive forests, fields where they cultivate vegetables and fruits, meadows where the sheep can go grazing and fields for cultivating fodder for the sheep, in particular, in dry periods. The property also covers a large area of sparse trees with Mediterranean scrub.

There is also an abandoned quarry, where granite was extracted some decades ago, at the foot of the hill behind the farm.

The farm and guesthouse is located between the hill and the country road, while the sea is located about 1 km in the opposite direction.

Both the interior and the exterior of the guesthouse look very attractive, while it is surrounded by an ample parking space and a rich diversity of local trees and flowers. The guesthouse is managed by the sisters Carla and Linda, while their brothers Lucio and Salvatore take care of the farm. Their parents live next to the guesthouse, but leave the daily running to their children.

The on-site restaurant is large, high-ceilinged and airy, while a modern and functional kitchen is located in an adjoining room. An environment filled with fragrances of local dishes and where all the meals for the guests are made.

Every morning, one of the sisters would prepare a delicious breakfast of bread, home-made jams from strawberry trees, quince and plums together with yogurt and various sheep’s cheeses and cold cuts, fruit juices, home-made pastries and of course tea and coffee. A well-assorted selection of fresh, organic fruits was always available. While not cooking, they seemed to be always busy cleaning the premises. Besides, they were knowledgeable and always willing to share information about places worth seeing, spectacular beaches and anything else which could interest their guests.

The wholesome and ample dinners were also made from local ingredients and using local recipes. Starters were followed by various pasta dishes, while the main course could be e.g. roasted lamb or piglet accompanied by boiled vegetables, mixed salads, olives and roasted potatoes, followed by local cheeses, fruits and pastries. To drink, a bottle of wine was available together with water and a glass of myrtle was offered at the end of each meal.

The fine rooms were located sequentially next to the restaurant, while a terrace extended along the whole building. Comfortable garden furniture was outside each room such that it was possible to relax outside the rooms in the balmy evenings or any other time of the day, sensing the scents of the abundant Mediterranean vegetation on the property.

One evening, we followed Carla for a walk around the farm. The sheep were outside eating hay provided by one of her brothers. All or most of them were pregnant and they didn’t produce milk, but there was a room where the sheep could be milked after they had born lambs because, in general, they produce more milk than is required by their offspring.

We also paid a visit to the pigs, which had a large pen all for themselves and a little pond where they could cool themselves on hot summer days. Like many pigs, they looked at us curiously and expectantly, waiting for a treat.

Having stayed for four days at this welcoming place, we said goodbye to Carla and continued our journey along the south coast of Sardinia.

28/10/2014
Cristiana and Tiziana Vargiu – tomato growers

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Since the Vargiu family are both agriculturalists and pastoralists, we also visited their farm consisting of two greenhouses with a combined area of 2.5 hectares where they are growing tomatoes along the alluvial plain of Santa Margherita di Pula.

Upon our arrival, we were met by Efisio Vargiu’s wife, Maria Teresa, who showed us the way to the greenhouses where Cristiana and Tiziana Vargiu were tending tomato plants. Their brother Giuseppe was apparently working with artificial irrigation, dividing his time with shepherding goats in the highlands in the morning and doing whatever is required in the greenhouses in the lowlands in the afternoon.

Both Cristiana and Tiziana were originally students, but broke off their studies in order to grow tomatoes. Both of them being aged about 30, said their choice was deliberate, but also difficult.

Walking between the lines of tomatoes, we notice the difference between inside and outside. We are approaching November, but the air is dry and the temperature is about 28°C, while it’s constantly 26°C and somewhat humid inside, parameters which are necessary for cultivating tomatoes. The type of tomato they are cultivating remains firm and fresh even after maturation, making them very popular in the market.

Regarding cultivation, the tomato plants are planted in the beginning of September. First, a straight furrow is made in the soil, then a hose with small. regularly spaced holes is extended along the whole furrow. Finally, the small tomato plants, having a height of about 10 cm, are planted next to each hole in the hose such that they can be watered with droplets, which is called drip irrigation. More information on drip irrigation can be found here.

As the mother plant is growing, shoots will inevitably start appearing and Tiziana and Cristiana have to decide if they shall let the plant have two or three shoots. They have chosen to have three, while some other growers prefer two. Tomato plants are climbers/vines and the shoots grow quickly upwards. In order to prevent that they fall down, thin twines are attached to each shoot and also to a horizontal metal bar about 2 m above each row of tomato plants. Then, the twine is twisted around the plant, a procedure which has to be repeated as the shoot is growing upwards. Another operation, which has to be done continuously, is to remove leaves since new shoots will often appear and start growing leaves. Often, two shoots start growing in opposite directions at the same level. Only one of the shoot is wanted because the leaves require nutrients, while the cultivators want them to arrive at the tomatoes as far as as possible. At the same time as Tiziana and Cristiana are removing leaves, they are also monitoring the health of the plants. A common disease is tomato leaf mould, whose first symptom is white spots on the leaves.

When the tomato plants are approaching the metal bars suspended over each row of tomato plants, they have to be lowered, else they will go on growing and degrade the quality of the tomatoes. If the tomato plants are supported by twine, this entails a lot of work for each plant as Giuseppe showed us. Alternatively, they are also using some kind of suspender, which makes this operation very easy. We were told that the tomato plants have an ideal height where they produce tomatoes at seven different levels. Having attained an ideal height, the Vargiu siblings may harvest tomatoes at the lowest level three months after the tiny tomato plants were planted. As time passes, they can harvest tomatoes from the second lowermost level and so on. Harvest lasts from December to June when the tomatoes at the highest level are harvested.

After having been harvested, the tomatoes are sorted in a machine according to their sizes. Then, they are packaged and sold wholesale to retailers.The room with the tomato sorting machine also contain some apparatuses for receiving goat’s milk brought by Giuseppe and his father back to the farm.

In order to pollinate the tomato plants, small boxes with cultured bumblebees are placed inside the greenhouses. Pollen on the male tomato flowers is released by means of buzz pollination. An introduction to pollination can also be found here.

Although using drip irrigation limits waste of water, not all of it will be consumed by the tomato plants, leading to that weeds will start growing where the soil is humid. Since they also need nutrients from the soil, weeding has to be done occasionally.

In July and August, old plants are uprooted, the soil is plowed, manure is added and new furrows are made. Then, another set of small tomato plants are planted and drip irrigation is set up again, repeating the growth cycle.

27/10/2014
Vargiu goat farm

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Going from the town of Pula, we drove through a large pine forest planted by man during the fascist era in Italy (1924-1943) when large oak forests together with indigenous plants were cut down in order to provide wood for building railways. Anyway, the forest we’re passing through is pretty, with lots of green pine trees, valleys, and reddish granite peaks.

Having arrived at the parking space, we have to cross a small, dry riverbed before arriving at the goat farm at the top of a hillock. The view from the hillock is beautiful with a valley below and hills on the other side of the valley covered by bright, green pines in contrast with scattered, reddish columns of granite emerging between them and a brilliant, blue sky overhead.

Just below the hillock, in a clearing illuminated by the sun, a flock of goats is passing through a gate in the fence surrounding the farm, while the owner of the farm, Efisio Vargiu, talks about raising goats. In fact, he started following his father raising goats when he was a small boy, first for fun, since because he wanted it.

However, his father wanted to gradually reduce the number of goats and instead start cultivating a vineyard on his property along the alluvial plain of Santa Margherita di Pula. Instead, Efisio wanted to increase the size of the flock arriving at a total number of 500 goats.

Fortunately, Efisio is being helped doing this difficult, but captivating work by his son Giuseppe, both of them determined to continue the family tradition.

Nowadays, the size of the flock has been reduced to 190 individuals, all of whose names both Efisio and Giuseppe know by heart due to the affectionate tie between man and animal. The goats have names like: Cerexia, Bellina, Scamminada, Sposixedda, Scriana, Rubidosa, Anixedda… where the x is pronounced liked sh in e.g. ash.

Only an affectionate shepherd can remember 190 names and recognise the appearance of every animal of the flock, but it’s only through this mutual bond that they can work in harmony. Efisio says that he’s born for this type of work and he has never regretted his choice of work. Evidently, this activity should be sustained and even increased. Unfortunately, Efisio asks rhetorically why the politicians aren’t able to see and understand how difficult it is to even find a spare shepherd. In particular, he doesn’t understand why he has to pay for a concession to the state for using an area for letting his animals graze. This activity is heading towards extinction and as he mentions with bitterness: “We are very sad when we know that our animals are roaming freely in the forest for which we pay a concession. The goats are scared and put in danger by hunters who can use the same area without paying anything. They are free to walk around, shooting wild animals for sports, while we are working in order to make a living and to maintain a demanding and irreplaceable human activity.”

Today, father and son have arrived relatively late at the pen because at this time of the year the work is light, consisting of letting the goats enter the pen and feeding them what is required to complement the nourishment of the animals. The adult goats are all pregnant, leading to that they produce no or very little milk. Fortunately, both father and son are able to demonstrate that they can milk their goats by hand although the amount produced is minuscule. However, when the kids are born, the goats are milked since they produce more than their kids need and the milk is sold to dairies. However, the main income is given by the number of kids, which are born and survive. Both father and son have to be very attentive and help the goats in case of difficulty with the births. Naturally, the relation between man and animal gets even closer when the births are occurring.

According to Efisio, in addition to remembering all the names of the goats, a shepherd must also be able to recognise all the kids, which get the same name as their mothers.

In addition to having a mutually affectionate relation between man and animals, a shepherd also must be able to identify when the bucks are ready to mate (from June to September) and has to record the date when every goat has mated with a buck. From conception to birth takes 5 months minus 5 days, making Efisio and Giuseppe very alert when full term is approaching. In particular, if the goats are grazing far from the pen, a birth can be fatal for either goat or kid or even both of them, which would entail a major loss for the shepherds. Having recorded the date of conception, they can be present when the goats are about to give birth.

While explaining these details to us, Efisio watches smilingly his son because he’s so proud of him. He has an extraordinary ability to help the goats if they have problems giving birth to their kids, in particular when the kid is positioned awkwardly, Efisio says.

In spite of all the attention Efiso and Giuseppe are paying, sometimes a kid will be born far from the pen. In such cases, the goat stays with its kid, which has to rise up and walk to its mother in order to suckle. For the first three days, the kid’s paws grow rapidly more robust, but mother and kid stay together in the same place, else the kid can easily be killed by predators if it is left on its own. Then, when the kid is strong enough, they both walk back to the pen with the kid easily crossing rough terrain.

During the first 35-40 days of the kid’s life, it lives inside the pen and sleeps inside a small room made of wooden boards and lying on a bed of branches with dry leaves, protecting it from the cold and from predators. Every 24 hours, in the morning, the mother returns, letting her kid suckle. Unfortunately, the kids, which represent the major income of the farm, are destined for the market, while only a minor number of them are allowed to join the flock. A product much sought after is rennet, a typical cheese which doesn’t require any processing. It’s obtained by extracting the stomach of the kid after having suckled its mother for the last time just before it’s slaughtered. This type of cheese is smoked and sold together with the meat of the kid.

26/10/2014