Blog

L’azienda Agricola Biologica Fonterosa di Bigi Piero
Questa azienda a conduzione familiare e diretta da Signore Piero Bigi il quale dall’inizio degli anni 80 ha voluto reintrodurre le colture tradizionali nella zona.

Così, ha iniziato personalmente la ricerca dei semi dei seguenti legumi:
- Fagiolo Ciavattone di Sorano
- Fagiolo Borlotto nano di Sorano
- Fagiolo Cannellino di Sorano
- Cicerchie di Sorano
- Cece Rugoso di Sorano
- Aglio rosso maremmano
Nella ricerca e sperimentazione biologica delle rispettive colture, l’azienda è sopportata dall’università di Siena che insieme a Signore Bigi controlla che, la selezione dei semi, le varie fasi di coltivazione degli stessi, la produzione e la successiva archiviazione dei nuovi semi selezionati, avvengano in modo che la normativa prevista per la coltivazione biologica sia rigorosamente applicata.

Il Signore Bigi racconta che nella sua ricerca sulle sementi originarie di questi legumi ha incontrato una vecchia contadina di 103 anni che ancora coltivava il famoso cece rugoso di Sorano, la cui coltivazione era già praticata dai suoi nonni. Sembra che molti legumi coltivati da Signore Bigi siano proveniente dall’Africa Centrale e che siano stati introdotti in Italia 300 anni fa. Tutti i legumi e l’aglio coltivati in questa azienda sono ufficialmente riconosciuti come prodotti tradizionali della Maremma o di Sorano, dall’apposita Commissione Regionale toscana. Siamo nei paesi del tufo, un ampio territorio compreso tra i comuni di Sorano, Pitigliano e Sovana. Territorio caratterizzato, appunto, dal terreno derivante dallo sgretolamento delle rocce vulcaniche formatesi attraverso il deposito della cenere e dai lapilli provenienti dagli antichi vulcani di Bolsena e Mezzano, attraverso il succedersi delle eruzioni avvenute in ere geologiche lontane.

La Terra dei Tufi: queste rocce vulcaniche effusive, prive di calcio, ma ricchissime di potassio, danno al fagiolo due caratteristiche organolettiche determinanti:
– la mancanza assoluta della “gusciosità” della cuticola esterna, che si presenta finissima e produce l’effetto dello “sciogliersi in bocca”
– il sapore dei legumi che risulta ricco ed intenso (profumato) è determinato dalla forte incidenza del potassio naturale.

Dall’insediamento delle colture leguminose deriva un ulteriore arricchimento per il terreno, infatti, è ben noto che le leguminose rilasciano nel terreno l’azoto che serve poi alle stesse piante per fissare il carbonio contenute nell’aria. Nella semina dei legumi si ha cura di scegliere degli appezzamenti di terra lontani tra di loro per evitare che l’impollinazione produca delle specie ibride. Non vengono utilizzati né fertilizzanti, né insetticidi, né diserbanti in nessuna delle fasi della coltivazione dei prodotti. L’operazione della raccolta dei frutti viene eseguita manualmente. Tutti questi legumi sono un ingrediente fondamentale nei principali piatti della dieta mediterranea e della cucina toscana. Essi contengono il giusto equilibrio tra carboidrati e proteine e sono resi facilmente digeribili dalla presenza delle fibre.

Visite alle aziende e redazione degli articoli realizzati in collaborazione con la scuola Terramare.
02/04/2009
Azienda Agricola Augusto Petroselli

Serre e colture in campo aperto

Questa azienda si trova nell’agro di Capalbio in località nominata Chiarone. L’azienda agricola a conduzione familiare coltiva meloni e angurie in serre o in campo aperto. Le piantine messe a dimora in questa azienda vengono acquistate dal vicino vivaio Pensalfine. Si tratta, quindi, di piante che hanno subito un’operazione di innesto e pertanto oppongono una particolare resistenza alle malattie, e non solo, il resultato dell’innesto garantisce una più alta probabilità di successo nell’attecchimento, nell’accrescimento e nella produttività. Dato il clima caldo-umido ottenuto all’interno delle serre, la messa in dimora delle piantine è possibile già dai primi di febbraio. Le piantine provenienti dal vivaio si ambientano perfettamente all’ambiente della serra, si sviluppano rapidamente e a marzo fioriscono.

Nel periodo dalla fioritura l’impollinazione è assicurata dall’intervento delle api che vivono all’interno della stessa serra. Alla fine di marzo dai fiori femmine nascono già i piccoli frutti, cioè, i meloni, che giungeranno a maturazione nel mese di maggio. In questo mese, infatti, si attua il primo taglio dei frutti e la successiva vendita. Invece, le stesse piantine sono messe a dimora tra il mese di marzo e il mese di aprile. Le prime vengono protette con il tunnel, le seconde (piantate tra marzo e aprile) vengono messe a dimora attraverso dei tagli effettuati sulla pacciamatura: tecnica diretta a isolare il solco destinato a ospitare le piante, attraverso un lungo telo di cellofan che oltre ad impedire che l’umidità del suole evapori, trattiene le due manichette che portano l’acqua alle piantine attraverso una serie di forellini chiamati goccialatoi perché rilasciano l’acqua goccia a goccia. Una volta messe a dimora, le piantine vengono coperte con l’agrovelo, che pur proteggendole dalle malattie, dai parassiti e dagli agenti esterni nella fase dell’accresciamento e del successivo sviluppo, consente la traspirazione e attraverso dei fori più ampi si assicura l’ingresso dell’aria.

Le piantine coltivate sotto i tunnel porteranno a maturazione i loro frutti nel mese di giugno; le piantine protette della pecciamatura e dall’agrovelo daranno i frutti a luglio/agosto.

I meloni dentro le serre hanno i fiori maschi e femmine. Utilizzano le api e le formiche per l’impollinazione. Dopo l’impollinazione, il fiore femminile diventa un frutto. Per facilitare l’impollinazione, viene posto dentro la serra un alveare artificiale.

All’interno dell’agrovelo si può raggiungere una temperatura di 60ºC, per cui è necessario, ancora prima applicare i buchi per evitare l’innalzamento della temperatura, poi, successivamente l’agrovelo viene eliminato gradualmente. I buchi praticati sull’agrovelo permettono anche l’entrata degli insetti impollinatori.

Visite alle aziende e redazione degli articoli realizzati in collaborazione con la scuola Terramare.

30/03/2009
Aia Della Colonna

Aia Della Colonna, un’azienda di agricoltura biologica gestita dalla famiglia Tistarelli fin dai primi anni ’70.

L’azienda si trova nell’interno della Maremma toscana, tra le Terme di Saturnia ed il Monte Amiata, in una zona in cui la macchia mediterranea si apre per scoprire il caratteristico passaggio toscano formato da dolci rilievi e valli che si estendono fino al arrivare al mare.

La famiglia Tistarelli ha acquistato l’azienda agricola, che oggi funziona anche come agriturismo, all’inizio degli anni 70.

Dal 1995 è diventata un’azienda biologica che si propone di reintrodurre e incrementare l’utilizzazione di una antica razza bovina: la vacca maremmana. Questa razza era già utilizzata dagli etruschi come bestiame da lavoro. Oggi, alcuni allevatori maremmani la reintroducono per utilizzarne le carni: sono vacche di grande taglia, di ossatura robusta e perciò, poco apprezzate nel mercato. Si cerca, per tale ragione, di valutare il gusto e la prelibatezza delle sue carni magre per allargare la nicchia di mercato, oggi riconquistata. Una caratteristica fisica molto evidente in questa razza sono le lunghe ed ampie corna.

Nell’allevamento Tistarelli ci sono circa 100 capi tra fattrici, vitelli da latte e vitelli adulti. Mentre le vacche e i vitellini vivono e si nutrono liberamente del pascolo nei campi semi selvatici, i vitelli che stanno per raggiungere il momento della vendita sono tenuti nei recinti sotto riparo dove si nutrono di erba medica, trifoglio e foraggi prodotti dalla azienda secondo il sistema biologico. Per radunare le vacche e i vitelli che vagano liberamente per la quasi totale ampiezza dell’azienda (240 ettari suddivisi tra bosco, pascoli e terreni semiselvatici) sono utilizzati i cavalli condotti da esperti butteri (i famosi cowboys della Maremma).

Oltre all’allevamento delle vacche maremmane, l’azienda possiede un allevamento di maiali della famosa razza “Cinta senese”, tradizionalmente allevati, appunto, nella zona di Siena. I maiali vivono sotto riparo, ma da qui possono uscire in spazi aperti dove trovano di che nutrirsi.

L’azienda alleva anche le pecore e gli agnelli per la carne e possiede, inoltre, un piccolo allevamento di polli: un incrocio fra due razze ruspanti diverse.

Le colture praticate, oltre ai foraggi (coltura principale), al trifoglio e all’erba medica, sono la vite e l’olivo, utilizzati solo per il fabbisogno della famiglia e degli ospiti della struttura agrituristica.

C’è anche un piccolo laboratorio per la lavorazione e la trasformazione delle carni bovine, suine ed ovine. Questi prodotti vengono venduti al pubblico direttamente in azienda.
Le cantine sono particolarmente adatte alla stagionatura dei trasformati.

La produzione dei diversi salumi avviene con tecniche artigianali; per la conservazione dei prodotti insaccati si impiega solo il sale: non si utilizza alcun tipo di conservante chimico.

Le carni fresche sono vendute direttamente a soggetti che somministrano il prodotto ai propri clienti (ristoranti, enoteche ecc…).

I salumi sono molto apprezzati, soprattutto in Toscana, dove tradizionalmente si usa il pane insipido, il cui gusto si sposa bene con quello dei salumi conservati con il sale. Il tutto potrebbe essere consumato, accompagnato dal morellino classico prodotto in zona.

L’azienda produce la salsiccia stagionata, l’ammazzafegato (un tipico salume maremmano), il salame, l’ arista, la pancetta, il guanciale, il prosciutto e il lardo.

Il mercato dei prodotti è limitato alla Toscana e a qualche altra regione limitrofa.

Visite alle aziende e redazione degli articoli realizzati in collaborazione con la scuola Terramare.

27/03/2009
Azienda Agricola Biologica “La Selva”

La Selva, un’azienda dove si pratica l’agricoltura e non solo. In trent’anni di sperimentazione e di sviluppo graduale è riuscita a ricostituire un ciclo biologico chiuso che potremmo definire perfetto.

Le mucche allevate sono di razza Chianina, questo nome, è dato dal luogo dove vengono tradizionalmente allevate, cioè la Val di Chiana: e’ la stessa razza che usavano i Romani per la carne, non per il latte. I vitellini nascono a La Selva e vengono nutriti dalle loro madri per 6 mesi. Dopo, il sesto mese vengono separati e tenuti in un recinto dove ha inizio lo svezzamento. In questo periodo possono incontrarsi con le madri senza subire lo stress del distacco dalla mamma. L’assenza dello stress dovuto al brusco distacco dalle madri va anche a beneficio della qualità della carne, destinata al mercato. Sia le mucche che i vitellini vivono al riparo sotto una tettoia ma sono liberi di uscire dai recinti e andare a pascolare nei prati dove trovano generalmente l’erba medica e il trifoglio. Nelle mangiatoie al riparo possono trovare del fieno misto ai cereali e alle legumi. Tutti i mangimi sono rigorosamente biologici. In ogni caso, gli animali non sono sottoposti a nutrimento forzato finalizzato al raggiungimento del peso di macellazione in tempi minimi. Infatti, la crescita segue il naturale processo. Così che, tra di 12 e 18 mesi le loro carni sono nel mercato.

L’allevamento bovino è formato da circa 25 capi: le fattrici sono 15 e vivono fuori tutto l’anno; i tori utilizzati per la monta sono due; il restante è formato dei vitelli. Dunque, i tori vengono sostituiti ogni 4 anni per evitare la riproduzione tra consanguinei: le vitelle destinate alla riproduzione diventano feconde alle 4 anni, quindi, e fondamentale importanza evitare che vengano fecondate dallo stesso toro che ha generate.

Accanto all’allevamento delle vacche l’azienda sta sperimentando l’allevamento delle pecore di razza Appenninica che ultimamente diventano sempre più rare. Le pecore sono lasciate allo stato grado, pascolano sui terreni appena mietuti. La pecora Appenninica proviene dal centro d’Italia e viene utilizzata per la carne. Quindi gli agnelli vengono allattati dalla madre fino allo svezzamento dato che il loro latte non è utilizzato industrialmente.

La maggior parte della produzione dell’azienda La Selva è destinata al mercato italiano, una piccola parte è anche destinata al mercato estero (principalmente Germania) . Solo 10% del prodotto orto-frutticolo è destinato alla trasformazione e alla vendita diretta nell’azienda stessa.

Dall’allevamento bovino non solo si ricava la carne, ma si utilizzano anche i liquami e il letame che vanno ad arricchire il terreno delle sostanze minerali necessarie alle colture.

Altri elementi integrativi del suolo provengono dalle colture che si alternano a intervalli annuali o bi-triennali per un arco di tempo di 7 o 8 anni, secondo il sistema della rotazione agraria. Attraverso questo sistema si evita l’impoverimento del terreno e le colture che subentrano alle precedenti traggano le sostanze nutritive arricchite dei minerali lasciati nel suolo, dalle prime Non si rende necessaria, quindi, l’utilizzazione di concimi chimici.

Anche gli antiparasittari chimici, usati nelle colture tradizionali per combattere le malattie provocate dai parassiti, sono sostituiti dagli insetti che si annidano numerosi ai bordi dei campi coltivati dove, lungo i fossi che segnano gli antichi confini, sono presenti nicchie di macchia mediterranea e boscaglie. Uno di questi insetti è, per esempio, la coccinella: questa si nutre dei pidocchi che possono infestare le colture di carciofi, dei legumi, ecc.

In questo processo di produzione biologica, gioca un ruolo di primo piano la morfologia del paesaggio che conserva il profilo originale, costituito da morbidi rilievi e piccoli avvallamenti ricoperti dalla vegetazione spontanea.

L’azienda ha un estensione di 450 ettari suddivisi in varie colture: frutteti, cereali, legumi e foraggi. Sono presenti anche appezzamenti anche coltivate a vite e a olivo. In alcuni vigneti accanto alle vite è stato reintrodotto l’olivo come la tradizione insegna si tratte di due colture nonconcorrenziali, ma simbiotiche: l’olivo rilascia elementi di arricchimento al suolo e la vite trova in questa coltura una protezione contro il vento.

Visite alle aziende e redazione degli articoli realizzati in collaborazione con la scuola Terramare.

25/03/2009
Viviaio Pensalfine

Questa azienda vivaistica provvede alla preparazione e alla distribuzione delle giovani piante di meloni, pomodori, zucchine, anguri, melanzane e asparagi alla gran parte delle colture presenti nella Maremma Tosco-Laziale.

L’impianto è situato, infatti, nella zona; di confine tra la Toscana e il Lazio in un area bonificata tra gli anni 40/50, compresa tra la costa tirrenica e la città di Capalbio. La prima fase di preparazione delle piante comincia con la semina all’interno dei singoli fori che formano i semenzai (contenitori di plastica composta da tanti fori destinati a ospitare i semi): i semi provenienti prevalentemente dalla Corea, dalla Francia, dagli Stati Uniti e dal Giappone vengono adagiati ciascuno in un piccolo foro contenente una miscela di torba scura proveniente dalla Foresta Nera in Germania e di torba bionda dalla Lituania. Tra il seme e la sua copertura finale costituita dalla stessa miscela torbosa si inserisce uno strato di materiale inerte che ha la funzione di mantenere l’umidità necessaria alla germogliazione del seme.

Nella seconda fase i semenzai passano in una cella di incubazione, cioè un capannone in cui viene generato un clima caldo-umido e la temperatura viene mantenuta costantemente tra i 25 e 27 centigradi. In questo habitat ideale i semi rimangono fino alla germogliazione: durante questa fase il seme sotto l’effetto della temperature e l’umidità si gonfia e lentamente si schiude per permetter la fuoriuscita delle prime due foglie (i dicotiledoni).

Quando i dicotiledoni si aprono e si forma la terza foglia finisce la fase della incubazione e le piantine vengono trasferite nella serra in attesa di raggiungere lo stadio di crescita idoneo al trapianto.

Innesto
Durante il periodo che precede l’innesto, le piantine subiscono due o tre trapianti fino a raggiungere lo stadio di sviluppo adatto a compiere questa operazione. Questa tecnica viene praticata al fine di ottenere delle piante più resistenti utilizzando tutte le caratteristiche positive di due diversi tipi di vegetali.

In questo vivaio abbiamo visto che si pratica l’innesto del cocomero sulla radice della zucca. La radice della zucca offre una maggiore resistenza contro le malattie, pertanto, la piantina del cocomero che viene innestata su questa radice assumerà la stessa resistenza.

Un altro tipo di innesto si pratica sulle radici di una diverse specie di zucca chi si presenta molta adatta a ricevere l’impianto sia del cocomero che del melone.

Un’ altra combinazione vincente sembra essere quella dell’innesto della melanzana sul pomodoro. La pratica dell’innesto si attua operando un taglio con un piccolo bisturi tra i due dicotiledoni della pianta ospitante. All’interno di questo taglio si inserisce il piccolo fusto della piantina innestata preventivamente privata dalle sue radici: saranno, infatti, le radici della zucca a portare il nutrimento alla nuova pianta.

La pianta ospitante, oltre a fornire le sue radici con il proprio patrimonio genetico contenuto nelle stesse, dà il suo apporto nutritivo attraverso i suoi dicotiledoni che permangono fino alla fase di attecchimento della nuova pianta. La fotosintesi e il passaggio della linfa vitale per la pianta innestata si attua attraverso le radici e i dicotiledoni della pianta ospitante solo se il contatto tra le cellule delle due specie è assicurato. Infatti, per la buona riuscita della operazione, indipendenti di questa azienda (che pur essendo a conduzione familiare dà lavoro ad una quindicina di giovani donne) saldano le due piantine tra di loro con delle minuscole mollette di plastica proveniente dalla Corea.

Ultima fase: smollettamento
Quando l’innesto è sicuramente riuscito e la nuova pianta è in grado di assumere le sostanze dalle radici della pianta originaria (zucca, melone selvatico, pomodoro….., ecc.), si procede allo smollettamento.

La pianta originaria perde i suoi cotiledoni e vengono eliminate le eventuali foglioline che spesso continuano a germogliare dalle sue radici. A questo punto abbiamo la nuova pianta gode di una vita autonoma e quando raggiunge l’altezza di 10-12 cm viene venduta alle aziende agricole per essere messa a dimora nelle serre, o in campo aperto ma protette dai tunnel o dall’agrovelo (tecniche e materiali speciali per proteggere le giovani piante contro gli agenti esterni e aiutare il loro sviluppo costituendo il clima caldo-umido necessario alla ulteriore crescita).

Visite alle aziende e redazione degli articoli realizzati in collaborazione con la scuola Terramare.

24/03/2009
Letter from Tuscany, Italy
I’ve been travelling around the city of Orbetello together with the teachers from the Terramare language school in Orbetello in order to document small-scale food and drink producers in Tuscany and Lazio.

Being accompanied by a local person is invaluable, both because they help me with the language and the special terms used by the people we visit, but also because they spend a lot of time contacting small-scale producers making appointments, driving to where they are located and aiding in asking questions in order to understand more about what they are doing. Besides, although some people speak slowly and clearly, some people don’t, making help with the language mandatory.

Our way of working consisted mostly of one of the teachers from Terramare asking questions and talking with the farmers, while I was busy taking notes in Italian of what they were saying. Afterwards I wrote my notes down on a computer and let the teachers form them into sentences in Italian. Finally, I have translated the texts into English, but not verbatim.

Tuesday 24 March

Photo gallery

Map reference

We visited a nursery called Vivaio Pensalfine located near the coast of the Tyrrhenian sea and Capalbio Calo. This nursery is producing melons, tomatoes, asparagus, squash and aubergine.

Fertilised seeds are bought from Korea, France, the U.S. and Japan. A plastic tray containing a matrix of small holes is used as a home for the seeds, that is, each hole is filled with a mixture of dark turf from the Black Forest in Germany and light turf from Lithuania. Then, an inert material is applied on top of the seed in order to preserve the humidity of the seed in order to assure that the seed germinates. Finally, another layer of the turf mixture is applied on top of the inert material. Next, the trays containing the seeds and the turf are put into a room with high humidity and a controlled temperature always between 25 and 27 degrees centigrade. Then, after some time the seed will grow into a minuscule plant with two leaves. When a third leaf is formed, the incubation period is finished and the next phase can begin. This phase, consisting of taking a part of one plant, making a cut in another plant, putting the stem of the first plant inside the cut of the second plant before applying a spring clip which will enforce a small pressure on the host plant, is called grafting. The purpose is to make the plant being inserted into a host plant more resistant to diseases. We were watching this operation where a watermelon plant was grafted to a pumpkin plant. The roots of the pumpkin has a large resistance to diseases, and the watermelon which is being grafted will inherit this resistance. In fact, the pumpkin plant is also able to accept a melon plant. Another combination is grafting an aubergine plant to a tomato plant. In order to do this operation, a tiny cut in the host plant between its two main leaves is done with a scalpel. Then, the roots of the plant to be grafted are removed before a tiny transversal cut is done to its stem. Finally, the stem is inserted into the cut and a spring clip will apply a light pressure around both the host plant and the grafted one. In this way, the host plant will bring nutrients to the grafted one.

During the growing phase, new leaves on the host plant will often start to grow, but they will have to removed since they will “steal” nutrients from the grafted plant. When the composite plant has grown to a size of about 10-12 centimetres, the spring clips around the host plants are removed, and the plants are sold to other nurseries.

Wednesday 25 March

Photo gallery

Map reference

Web site

A farm called Azienda Agricola Biologica “La Selva” located at San Donato, Albinia. La Selva is a farm in which organic agriculture, which has been tried and tested in various ways for about 30 years, is practised.

The cows being raised at the farm are native to Tuscany and are called Chianina because they were traditionally raised in the valley of Chiana. In fact, it is the same race that were used by the Romans, but only for the meat and not for the milk. The calves are born at La Selva and stay with their mothers for 6 months. Then, the animals are separated by a fence, but they are still able to meet each other. In this way, both the cow and the calf will avoid the stress which occur when they are forced to separate soon after birth. It also has a beneficial effect on the quality of the meat, which is sold to restaurants, etc.

Both the cows and the calves live in large sheds consisting of a roof held up by steel columns and they are free to walk around the shed. They eat hay mixed with cereals and vegetables in addition to clover and they are never force-fed in order to obtain a specified weight in the shortest possible time. All the fodder they are eating is strictly organic. At the age of 12 to 18 months, some of the calves are sold for meat. About 25 Chianina cattle live outside all year. They consist of two bulls, about 15 cows and heifers, while the rest are calves. Every 4 years, the bulls are replaced in order to avoid in-breeding since the calves become mature after 4 years.

Appennin sheep are also being raised at La Selva and they are grazing on land which is only being slightly farmed. The Appennin sheep originate from the centre of Italy and is only used for meat. Thus, the lambs are fed by their mothers until they are either sold for meat or they are gradually weaned off drinking milk.

The hay, on which the cows walk, together with the their dung are used to fertilise the fields. In addition, a cycle running for 6-8 years is practised for cultivation of harvests. By using plants the first 3 or 4 years, which provides nutrients to the soil and only using the last 3 or 4 years for growing plants for food, a gradual impoverishment of the soil is avoided. Instead, the succeeding plants get nutrients from the preceding plants left in the soil.

Regarding parasites feeding on the harvests, chemical pesticides are not used. Instead, insects like, for instance, ladybirds, which live in small forests spread around the farm feed on the parasites. The farmland of 450 hectares is divided into various areas for growing fruits, cereals, vegetables and fodder. Almost all the products from La Selva is sold in Italy, while a small part is exported to Germany. Only 10% of the production of fruits and vegetables are sold in their own farmer’s shop.

Friday 27 March

Photo gallery

Map reference

Web site

We drove inland in the Maremma towards a farm called Aia della Colonna, which has been run by the Tistarelli family since the early 70s.

The farm is located on the top of a hill and it is surrounded by rolling hills and valleys filled with maquis together with forests. The Tistarelli family has been doing organic farming since 1995 where they are reintroducing and increasing the use of the ancient bovine race called the Maremma cow. This cow has been used at least since the time of the Etruscans as work animals and for their meat.

Fortunately, other farmers have also begun raising Maremma cows for the meat. Until only a few years ago, this cow race was little appreciated because of its large size and also because the race has not been bred for milk, meaning that it will probably not produce as much milk as dairy cows. Instead, the Maremma cow is appreciated for its tasty and meagre meat. An evident characteristic of these animals are their long and wide horns. About 100 cattle are being raised by the Tistarellis consisting of cows, heifers and calves which are dependent on milk. While the cows and the calves can roam more or less freely within a range, the heifers which are ready for selling are collected in enclosed areas where they are being fed hay, clover and fodder grown organically at the farm. In order to move the free-ranging cows and the calves, cowboys (yes, they still exist and they are called butteri in Italy) are used since the cows are very protective of their calves and can easily kill someone with their big horns.

In addition to raising Maremma cattle, a pig race called Cinta Senese, which were originally raised near Siena, is also being raised at the farm. The pigs have a shed, but are free to go outside whenever they wish. Sheep are also being raised and the lambs stay with their mothers till they are weaned off. The wool is not being used due to that it requires too much work. The Tistarellis also raise chickens which are a cross between two ancient breeds of chicken. The hens are free to walk around inside a fence and they also have a shed for laying eggs.

Besides growing fodder for the animals, the Tistarellis are also growing olives and vines. The olives and the vines are only for personal consumption and their guests since they also have rooms for rent. They also have premises for treating the meat from their animals, and the products are sold at their own farmer’s shop.

Production of sausages are done using tried and true methods, that is, they are only using salt to preserve the meat and no preservatives are added. The products are sold to restaurants, wine bars, and so on. The salamis are much appreciated, especially in Tuscany where bread without salt is traditionally being used. The mix between the salted meat and the bread without salt gives a delicious taste. It is recommended to use a red wine called Morellino to accompany this meal. For the modest sum of 15 euros each, we were served a delicious meal consisting of wide selection of their meat products together with bread and wine.

Various types of meat products are sold (the Italian names are included):
- seasoned sausage – la salsiccia stagionata
- a type of salami from Maremma – l’ammazzafegato
- salami – il salame
- chine of pork – l’arista
- bacon – la pancetta
- lard from the pig’s cheek – il guanciale
- ham – il prosciutto
- lard – il lardo.
The products are sold in the vicinity of and in Tuscany.

Monday 30 March 2009

Photo gallery

Map reference

We went to the neighbour of Vivaio Pensalfine called Azienda Agricola Augusto Petroselli, who are producing melons and watermelons in greenhouses and in open fields.

The seedlings which are planted at this enterprise are bought from the Vivaio Pensalfine. Thus, they are buying seedlings which are resistant to disease, more likely that the seedlings will take root, greater growth rate and productivity. The hot and humid climate inside the greenhouses means that planting the seedlings can be started as early as February since no heating is provided to the greenhouses. Instead, heating is provided by the sun. The seedlings adapt well to being planted in the greenhouses and blossom in March. In the blossoming phase, pollination is ensured by means of bees, which live in the same greenhouse1. The female flowers turn into small fruits after having been pollinated, and the melons are ripe in May. Then, the primary harvest and sale of melons are carried out. In March and April, a new batch of seedlings are planted. The first ones are protected by a tunnel2 made of metal bows supporting a “roof” of cellophane which functions as a “house without floor” around them. Before the second ones are planted, a layer of cellophane is laid on the ground . This layer, which serves to hinder evaporation from the soil, has regular holes in it where the new seedlings will be planted. In addition, a tube with minuscule holes occurring at the same distance as the holes in the layer of cellophane is put along the seedlings. The holes let each seedling receive water, drop by drop, which seems to be a very efficient way of artificial irrigation. Thereafter, all the seedlings are covered with some kind of textile held up by metal bows. This “roof” protects the seedlings against diseases and parasites, but it is also porous in order to allow them to breathe. The seedlings which are grown in the tunnels are ready for harvesting in June, while the other ones are ready for harvesting in July/August.

1. The melons inside the greenhouses have male and female flowers and bees are used intentionally, while ants are also doing some pollination. The female flower turns into a fruit after pollination, while the male one, withers away. A beehive is kept inside some of the greenhouses in order to ensure pollination.

2. Inside the tunnel, the temperature can exceed 60 degrees centigrade making it necessary to make small holes at the end of the tunnels. The sizes of the holes are gradually made larger as the seedlings grow larger. This also has the desirable effect of letting insect pollinators enter the tunnel.

Thursday 2 april 2009

Photo gallery

Map reference

We drove from Orbetello, via Manciano and Pitigliano towards Sorano when we arrived at a farm called l’Azienda Agricola Biologica Fonterosa di Piero Bigi.

This family farm is run by Mr. Piero Bigi who wanted to reintroduce traditional cultivation in the early 80s. Now, he is cultivating organically the following legumes:
- Bean – Fagiolo Ciavattone di Sorano
- Kidney bean from Sorano – Fagiolo Borlotto nano di Sorano
- Bean – Fagiolo Cannellino di Sorano
- Name in English??? – Cicerchie di Sorano
- Wrinkled chickpea from Sorano – Cece Rugoso di Sorano and one type of garlic called:
- Red garlic from Maremma – Aglio rosso maremmano
The possibly corresponding names in English have been put in before the original names in Italian in the list above.

Mr. Bigi is aided in searching for new legumes and cultivating them by the University of Siena. Together, they are also controlling the selection of seeds, the various phases of cultivation, and the storing of the new seeds are performed in accordance with the requirements to organic farming. Mr. Bigi told us that during searching for original seeds for the above mentioned legumes, he met a 103 year old woman farmer who was still cultivating wrinkled chickpeas from Sorano. She told him that her grandparents were cultivating the same type of legume. It seems like most of the legumes cultivated by Mr. Bigi originally arrived in Europe about 300 years ago, having been exported somehow from Central Africa. All the legumes together with the garlic cultivated by Mr. Bigi are officially recognised as traditional products from Maremma or Sorano by the Tuscan Commissione Regionale. The farm is located in the area of tuff, a volcanic rock. The tuff originates from volcanic ash and lapilli from the ancient volcanoes of Bolsena and Mezzano in distant geological times.

The abundant content of potassium in the tuff lends the following characteristics to the legumes:
- Absence of a “shell effect” on the outer skin of the legume, produces an effect like it is “melting in the mouth”.
- A rich and intense flavour.
Planting legumes has the beneficial effect that it enriches the soil because they release nitrogen into the soil which also fixes carbon dioxide from the air. When planting, the legumes are planted on pieces of ground which are far from each other, in order to avoid pollination which could have caused hybridisation. No fertilisers, no insecticides and no weed-killers are applied during cultivation of any of the products. Collection of the finished products are done manually. All of the above mentioned legumes are fundamental ingredients of the courses in the Mediterranean diet and the Tuscan kitchen.

Friday 3 april 2009

Photo gallery

Map reference

Web site

Instagram

We drove just a few kilometres from Orbetello in order to reach a place called San Donato where a farm called Azienda Biologica e Agriturismo Rustici is located.

We were showed around by Giuseppe Rustici, who runs the farm in cooperation with his father, his brother and their wives. Besides, they employ 8 people. Originally, the whole area around the farm was marshland, but it was reclaimed by draining during the 1950s.

In addition, the land which was formerly owned by absent landowners were divided up and given to independent peasants. Now, 60 years later, the farm has about 100 Frisone dairy cows which are only meant for milk production. In addition, they are raising Maremma cows in an enclosed space and a mix between Limousine-Chianina which live in another enclosure nearby. While the dairy cows live inside a shed, but where they are free to walk outside, are inseminated artificially at regular intervals (60 days after having given birth, i.e. annually), the cows living outside are inseminated by bulls.

The farm has two Maremma bulls and one mixed race for this purpose. The Rustici brothers together with their father have decided to run the farm as an enterprise run in an organic way. This means first of all to let nature run its course and not to push things, e.g., the time between the birth of a calf and another insemination of a dairy cow is extended from the minimum one month period to two months. Besides, cultivation of the harvests and treatment of soil are done organically, the animals are treated as well as possible, new and genuine products are continually developed and brought to market. The Rustici family has been trying for several years to promote the sale and the consumption of raw milk. Raw milk is the milk which has been milked from the dairy cows and not treated in any way, except filtration and refrigeration at 4°C.

This leads to several properties which are highly appreciated by their customers:
- raw milk is easily digestible, containing enzymes in an active form and aiding in improving intolerance to drinking milk.
- raw milk aids in absorption of calcium because it conserves phosphates. Instead, heat-treating the milk will prevent this property.
- raw milk contains large amounts of unsaturated fats which are fundamental for the human body, gives energy to the body, aids in eliminating toxins and maintains the elasticity of the veins.
Among the initiatives of the Rusticis for taking care of the environment is to extend their organic cultivation to neighbouring farms.

The advantages are twofold:
- restore the original organic components by preventing all use of pesticides, weed-killers and other chemicals.
- provide fodder, cereals and legumes necessary for the nutrition of their animals.
The Rustici farm has been officially recognised by a regional corporation called ARSIA and has received a certificate of conformity guarding the rules of running farms organically. The certificate has to be renewed at regular intervals. The health of the dairy cows is closely monitored. Each cow is furnished with a pedometer which monitors their movement, while the amount of milk each cow produces is also recorded as a means of detecting health problems at an early stage.

The calves are separated from their mothers immediately after birth, but the calf is completely dependent on drinking the milk of its mother for the first 10 days of its life. Thereafter, it is fed milk from the other dairy cows for another 80 days. Thereafter, the calves are placed together in enclosures where they are free to be inside a shed or walk outside on a meadow. As the calves turn into heifers, they are placed in another enclosure until finally “advancing” to be dairy cows at which time they will join the other ones.

The raising of cows outside (about 50 Maremma cows and about 70 mixed race cows only meant for meat production) take place about 25 kilometres from the Rustici farm near a town called Magliano about 150-200 metres above sea level. They live in a beautiful area consisting of hills and valleys covered with maquis and with a view of the sea. Ancient fountains nearby are used to provide water to the animals.

In summer, the Maremma cows, which grow slowly, needing large open spaces and being able to move long distances, are moved to other meadows nearby where they are able to live off the land, whereas they are fed by the farmers in winter. Among the agricultural rotation techniques reintroduced by the Rustici brothers which is beneficial for the soil is called green manure. By means of this method, one type of plant is used to prepare the soil for multi-year plants the next season.

A suitable plant for this purpose is called favino in Italian and probably mangetout in English, a legume which makes it possible to obtain the following main objectives:
- after having spread dung from the cowsheds, the legume called mangetout, which collects nutrients from the dung, is seeded in the same place. Thus, when growing, it will transform the dung into elements which will enrich the soil after the plants have died.
- the mangetout prevents other plants from growing up in the same area in which it is growing.
- after the mangetouts have died, they are left on the field, thus providing a natural weed-killer.
Besides, all legumes enrich the soil with nitrogen. Before a new cultivation is applied, the plant residues are mixed mechanically providing nutrients or green manure to the new cultivation.

The Rustici family has lots of ideas for expansion of their farm, not limited to extending their land or raising more animals, but also to receive tourists. In fact, around the meadows used by the cows, numerous paths are situated which are suitable for both hiking and mountain biking and they are ready to accommodate groups, who want to spend their holidays in the countryside. They also serve food based on their own locally grown and raised food together with their un-pasteurised or raw milk.

Monday 6 april 2009

Photo gallery

Map reference

We drove from Orbetello through Manciano and just before reaching Pitigliano, we turned right towards Farnese. Just a few hundred metres afterwards, we reached the farm called Azienda Agricola Belvedere situated on top a hill.

One of the first sights which met us on arrival was Giancarlo’s, the owner of the farm, 75 year old mother slaughtering a turkey. Later, we were also watching her slaughtering a hen and a rabbit. A very unusual sight, indeed, for a city guy like me! However, the other free-ranging chickens seemed not to notice at all or just showing utmost indifference that two of their brethren had just been finished off!

The Belvedere farm being situated between the Tuscan commune Pitigliano and the Lazian commune Farnese, resides on very fertile soil although it is outside the zone of tuff. All the countryside around the Belvedere farm was owned by large landowners up until the 1950s when an agricultural reform abrogated this custom and gave the land to the peasants. Giancarlo’s mother could still remember her grandparents had the right to stay in the farmhouse, but having to give half of whatever they produced to the landowner. After the agricultural reform, the family of Giancarlo has extended the area of the farm to 150 hectares by buying up land and by inheritance.

The principal plants which are cultivated at this farm are olives and grape-vines. The vines are mainly Sangiovese, Cabernet and Rosso di Sorano where most of production is sold to wine-merchant called Cantina Sociale. However, the pride of Giancarlo is the wine cellar, dating from the 1400s and facing north to avoid the sun, which has been excavated below the family’s house. We were invited to taste his Rosso di Sorano which had an excellent taste.

Regarding the olives, Giancarlo cultivates three types of olive trees, Cannino, Leccino and Frantoio, which have some of the following general characteristics:
- Cannino olive oil: tasty, pungent, forever young and can be conserved a long time.
- Leccino: the Leccino trees are robust and not susceptible to cold spells. The olives are big and meaty, while the oil is light and delicate, but not suitable for long conservation. May be harvested in October-November.
- Frantoio: not able to produce olives if the tree is subjected to low temperatures, but it produces an excellent oil which is aromatic and fragrant.
The following animals are raised at Belvedere:
- Milk-producing Frisone cows and meat-producing Limousine cows.
- Meat-producing Cinta Senese pigs whose meat is sold both as fresh and as sausages, salamies, ham, lard, etc.
- Meat-producing Appennin sheep.
In order to enrich the soil, dung is used, while no chemicals are added. The Belvedere farm has not been recognised as an organic farm due to too much bureaucracy. We were also shown a field of rapeseed which was only used for fodder for their animals and not for making vegetable oil.
10/03/2009
Grøndalen farm

Web site

Map reference

Photo gallery

Grøndalen farm meaning the Green valley farm is being run in an organic manner, having excellent animal welfare, and producing a fromage blanc called Nýr, which is pronounced neer and can by all means replace both cream and sour cream.

We went to Grøndalen farm in the Sørum district located about one hour drive northeast of Oslo. We were expecting some information on running an organic farm and doing small-scale cheese production. Instead, we got much more.

We met a farmer called Hans Arild Grøndahl with a liking for organic agriculture and animal welfare and a sense of balance in his environment. Hans Arild showed us his barn where the animals could walk around more or less freely whenever they felt like it. The most unique experience of it all was to see with our own eyes that the animals were having such a good time. In addition to being more or less free, the newborn calves stay with their mothers for 8 weeks.

On the contrary, it’s common practice to separate mother and child straight after birth which is certainly a traumatic experience for both of them. For the first two days after birth, cow and calf stay together separate from the other animals, while they stay together with the other ones afterwards. Even after the 8 weeks have passed, cow and calf are able to see each other across a fence.

RELATED REPORT:
Calf growth rate and welfare in a dairy herd with natural feeding until 6-8 weeks of age.

This way of treating cows have gained a lot of attention, bringing visitors from lots of countries across the world in order to see what Hans Arild and his family have achieved. A short time after our visit, we were told that a research grant had been approved in order to do research, among other things, on the impact of the treatment of the animals on the milk they are making.

A report in Norwegian describes experiences with letting cows stay with their calves.

Fromage blanc production

Hans Arild rents a small dairy at a vocational school close to his farm in order to produce Nýr, the fromage blanc, which is made from milk to which is added lactic acid bacteria. This leads to a unique, tasty flavour.

Distribution

Grøndalen gård could have sold a lot more of its fromage blanc. However, they have many of the same challenges like other small-scale producers are struggling with, like marketing and access to markets. However, we who are co-producers1 have to ask for their products at the supermarkets and spread the word as far and wide as possible.

1. Members of Slow Food don’t call themselves consumers, but co-producers to the producers who are producing our food.

28/11/2008
Grøndalen gård
Grøndalen gård med økologisk drift og dyrevelferd i verdensklasse produserer den magre mykosten Nýr. Nýr kan med hell benyttes som erstatning til krem og rømme.

Jord til bord redaksjonen besøkte forleden Grøndalen gård i Sørum. Vår fotograf John Tollefsen hadde kommet over gården på nettsidene til rask og sunn mat kjeden Zenzi. Etter en tur innom iskremprodusenten Kulinaris på Kolbotn, tok vi veien nordover til Sørum og Grøndalen gård kart. Vi så for oss en oppdatering på økologisk drift og småskala osteproduksjon. Det ble mye mer.

Dyrevelferd
Bilder fra fjøset (1.1 mb pdf)
Vi møtte en oppegående matprodusent med sans for dyrevelferd samt trivsel og balanse i sine omgivelser. Hans Arild Grøndahl viste oss sitt løsdriftsfjøs, hvor dyrene fritt kunne gå ut og inn etter eget forgodtbefinnende. Det mest unike var likevel å se med egne øyne at her var det dyr som trivdes. Årsaken kan også være i tillegg til driftsformen, en mer dyrevennlig tilnærming til kuas tid sammen med egen kalv etter fødsel. Vanlig praksis har vært at kalven tas fra moren rett etter fødsel. Dette er en traumatisk opplevelse både for ku og kalv. På Grøndalen gård så får kalven være sammen med mora i 8 uker før adskillelse. De to første dagene er det bare ku og kalv sammen, siden er de sammen med resten av besetningen. Etter atskillelse fra mor har fremdeles kalv og ku øyesyn med hverandre i fjøset. Interesserte fra hele verden har sett nærmere på det Hans Arild og hans familie har gjort. Gledelig er det også at det er satt av forskningsmidler til å se nærmere på det Grøndalen gård har satt i gang på dyrevelferdssiden.

Osteproduksjon
Nýr er den magre mykosten som Grøndalen gård produserer. Gården leier lokaler til sin osteproduksjon på Hvam VGS. Nýr er en syrlig ferskost. Nýr er mager, økologisk og blir fremstilt av melk som blir pasteurisert melk og syrnet med en syrekultur. Dette gir en fyldig aroma og særpreg.

Distribusjon
Grøndalen Gård kunne solgt mye mer av sin ost Nýr. De har mange av de samme utfordringer som andre småskalaprodusenter sliter med, markedsføring og markedstilgang. De fire store i dagligvaresektoren legger ikke forholdene spesielt godt tilrette for våre småskalaprodusenter i dette landet. Vi med-produsenter* må etterspørre produktene i butikken og promotere de så godt vi kan.

*Medlemmer av Slow Food benevner seg selv ikke som forbrukere men som med-produsenter til de som lager vår mat.

RELATERT INFORMASJON:
28/11/2008
Stangekylling and Gårdsand

We went to the county Vestfold in order to visit two producers of poultry, Stangekylling, meaning Stange chicken, and Gårdsand, meaning Farm duck as a part of our soil to table project.

Stange chicken

Map reference

Stangekylling, which is located near a town called Tonsberg, is known for its slowly grown and tasty chickens which are appreciated among restaurants in and around Oslo. The founder of Stangekylling, Arnt Harald Stange, travelled for several years to Oslo in order to deliver his products directly to the restaurants, while a transportation company is doing this job now. Mr. Stange lets his chickens grow for 55 days while being fed with a specially composed mixture made at a local mill in Vestfold before being slaughtered. In comparison, chickens from the largest producer of chickens in Norway called Prior let their chickens live for 29 days before slaughter.

Stangekylling has been bought by another company and it doesn’t have a web site any more.

Market access
Stangekylling have been developing quality sauces for some time and now they are trying to get their products out to the consumers. Marketing their products is the main challenge for all small-scale producers which also apply to the sauces and juices from Stangekylling. Having 4 big supermarket chains in Norway, each small-scale producer gets a quarter of an hour to present their products. If they are approved, they also have to pay a large amount of money in order to sell their products in the supermarkets. We really hope that Stangekylling will succeed in presenting their products to the supermarket chains and then on to the consumers.

Gårdsand – control and quality in all stages

Web site

Map reference

Photo gallery

Gårdsand is located in the countryside in a place called Revetal in the county Vestfold. 5 farmers work together in a cooperative called Gårdsand and they import ducks from a company called Cherry Valley in the U.K. When the ducklings arrive in Norway, one of the farms receives them and let them stay in quarantine for 10 weeks. Regular visits by vets are conducted, while the farmer also monitors the health of the ducklings and take out any ill ones. Each of the five farmers has his own specialty, which all in all leads to a safe way of production. Everything is under control from the feed to hatching of the eggs to the ducks which are ready for slaughter. It’s great to see farmers where pride of work and modern technology go hand in hand so well.

Safe zones, meticulous hygiene, good routines, and expert knowledge was our impression after having visited Hans Olav Torp, one of the five farmers in the cooperative Gårdsand. We got to see a computer-controlled hatching machine, set up and controlled by Mr. Torp, who having worked with electro-mechanical devices in the industry, knows how to set up and operate such advanced equipment. It was great to see people who leave nothing to chance producing food and doing what they can in order to deliver high quality products.

10/11/2008
Stangekylling

Fabelaktig fjærkre fra Vestfold. Slow Food Oslo, med sitt jord til bord prosjekt tok turen til Vestfold og besøkte Stangekylling.

Stangekylling i Tønsberg er kjent for sin langsomt vokste og smakfulle kylling, som mange restauranter i Oslo området er så begeistret for. Arnt Harald Stange reiste i flere år selv inn til Oslo og leverte sitt produkt direkte til kunden. Han leverte en kylling som hadde vokst i 55 dager før slakting. Kyllingen var blitt alet opp med egenkomponert fôrblanding, levert av en lokal mølle. Til sammenligning så vokser en ordinær Prior kylling i 29 dager før den slaktes. Dette gjorde valget enkelt for de kokkene som skulle kjøpe kylling. I dag gjør JPT transport jobben med å levere stangekylling til kundene.

Markedstilgang
Stangekylling har i den senere tid utviklet flere kvalitetssauser. De er nå i ferd med å lansere produktene. Utfordringen for de fleste av våre småskalaprodusenter er markedstilgangen, så også med saus- og kraftproduktene fra Stangekylling. Strukturen med 4 store aktører på dagligvaresiden i Norge har sine utfordringer. De bestemmer hva du og jeg skal kjøpe i butikken. Ofte er det også store beløp som de ulike leverandørene må bla opp med i forkant for å få markedstilgang, joint marketing kalles dette. Denne ordningen er tvilsom og hemmende for utviklingen et mangfoldig vareutvalg i Norge. Kjedene møter de små leverandørene med speeddating, hvor de setter av et kvarters tid der de ulike småskalaaktørene får presentert seg. Vi får håpe Stangekylling lykkes i å få presentert sine produkter for sine potensielle kunder.

RELEVANTE LINKER:

Stangekylling

10/11/2008
Gårdsand

Gårdsand i Revetal i Vestfold er nok en flott matprodusent her det kontroll og kvalitet i alle ledd.

5 bønder har gått sammen om å skape Gårdsand. De importerer ender fra Cherry Valley i England, En gård tar i mot dyrene og der begynner en karantenetid på 10 uker. Kontroll av vekt og endenes helsetilstand følges nøye. Besøk fra Mattilsyn og veterinær skjer jevnlig. De 5 bøndene har spesialkompetanse på hvert sitt område og sammen gir dette en trygg og sikker produksjonslinje. Det er full kontroll på hele prosessen. Fôr til avlsdyrene, ruging av egg, klekking og oppfølging til endene er slakteferdige. Det er flott å se på bønder, der god gammel yrkesstolthet og moderne teknologi samhandler så bra.

Teknologi og kunnskap
Sikre soner, hyppig hygienekontroll, håndvask, gode rutiner og fagkunnskap var den røde tråden vi fikk oppleve hos Hans Edvard Torp, en av de 5 andelsbøndene i Gårdsand. Her fikk vi se datastyrte rugemaskiner, flott overstyrt av Hans Edvard sin fagkunnskap og kompetanse. Herlig med mennesker som tar matproduksjon på alvor og setter sin ære i å levere kvalitetsprodukter til oss med-produsenter*.
( *Slow Food medlemmer ser ikke på seg selv som forbrukere men med-produsent til de som lager mat.)

RELATERTE LINKER:
Cherry Valley
Gårdsand

10/11/2008
Tim Wendelboe coffee bar

Web site

Map reference

Photo gallery

One early morning, we went to a coffee bar called Tim Wendelboe in the Grünerløkka district in Oslo in order to have a chat with the owner, Tim Wendelboe, and his employees.

We would like to know more about what happens from the coffee beans are harvested till the finished cup of coffee, taking photos of the coffee making and hopefully find out how good experiences of taste arise.

Origin and tracking

We didn’t choose the coffee bar in 1 Grüners gate just by accident. Leaving nothing to chance, the guys at TW have complete control of the coffee beans from harvest to arrival in Oslo. Direct contact with the producers and coffee farmers enable them to get first-hand knowledge of the ingredients they are using in the different coffee mixtures. Buying directly from the farmer makes it easier to ascertain that the price of the coffee has a direct benefit for the producer. In addition, this connection gives the coffee a reference and an identity.

From coffee beans to coffee mixture

After having bought coffee beans from different parts of the world, they have to be blended and roasted before they can be savoured. This is a job which requires knowledge, competence, passion and patience. Fortunately, the owner Tim W. together with Tim V. and Ola know how to make good mixtures. They smell, taste, look at and touch the coffee beans in order to make coffee which is uniquely their own. Since coffee consists of more than 800 components, there are many factors to relate to.

Roasting of the coffee blend

After having blended the coffee beans, they have to be roasted at a controlled temperature and humidity for a specific time in order to obtain the wanted result. It was a pleasure watching Ola working since he was responsible for roasting of the beans this morning. Manually controlling the sight and smell of the beans during the roasting in order to release the beans at exactly the right moment. The smell of the finished coffee beans isn’t let into the premises of the coffee bar. Instead, it is spread across the whole district of Grünerløkka. Nothing is left to chance when the beans are roasted at this coffee bar.

Blumenthal and TW

I’m thinking of the tv series with Heston Blumenthal when I see the coffee guys in action. When he’s searching for the perfect meal he’s very meticulous. As a curiosity, it can be mentioned that he owns and directs the world’s best diner, The Fat Duck. Expensive and delicious and 2 years waiting time for a table. Tim V is serving in the coffee shop this morning, and he’s treating the grinder and the coffee machine quickly and efficiently. Golden drops appear in cup after cup. We, that is the photographer John and I leave the place being overwhelmed and impressed by these guys’ capabilities. Tim Wendelboe has the immodest aim of having one of the best coffee bars in the world. Having won two world championships as a barista, he and his colleagues are well on the way. If you ask me, he’s already there after having drunk my cup of coffee at TW this morning.

Side effects of drinking coffee

Drinking coffee also has some side effects, which may be described in very different ways. Here is one of them.

History of coffee

An article called The Complete History of Coffee can be found here and another one called A Guide To The History Of Coffee can be found here.

This web site gives advice on making the perfect brew.

04/09/2008
Tim Wendelboe

Fra kaffebønne til kaffekopp. En tidlig morgen tok Slow Food Oslo turen innom et kaffested på Grünerløkka for en prat. Vi ville vite mer om veien fra kaffebønnen til kaffekoppen, fotografere og finne ut av hvordan gode smaksopplevelser blir til.

Opprinnelse og sporing

Vårt valg av kaffested som ligger i Grünersgate 1 var ikke et tilfeldig valg. Her har de full kontroll på de kaffebønnene de kjøper. Direkte kontakt med produsenter og lokale kaffebønder, gjør at de får førstehåndskunnskap om råvaren de benytter i de ulike kaffeblandinger. Handel direkte med bonden, gjør det lettere å være sikker på at det man betaler for kaffen kommer rett til produsenten. I tillegg vil denne direkte kontakten gi den ferdige kaffen en referanse og identitet. Det blir ikke bare en kaffe fra Brasil.

Fra bønner til kaffeblanding
Kaffebønner fra ulike steder i verden er kjøpt inn. Jobben nå er å sette sammen, brenne kaffebønner og skape gode kaffeopplevelser. Dette er en jobb som krever kunnskap, kompetanse, lidenskap og tålmodighet. Ola, Tim V. og Tim W. har ferdighetene som skal til for å komme opp med gode blandinger. De lukter, smaker, ser, tar på kaffebønnene, og bruker mange sanser for å skape sin kaffe. Kaffe har over 800 komponenter så det er mange faktorer å forholde seg til.

Brenning av kaffeblandingen
Den kreative delen med å sette sammen en blanding er unnagjort. Hvordan de ulike bønnene skal brennes, tid, temperatur, fuktighet styres nøyaktig for å oppnå det ønskede resultat. Det var fryd å se Ola i aksjon, han hadde ansvar for brenningen den morgenen. Kunnskap, kompetanse, nøyaktighet og full kontroll med maskinene hele veien. Manuelle kontroller underveis. Ta på, se, lukte, smake og høre. De ferdige nybrente kaffebønnene slipper ikke lukten inn i lokalet, men opp i luften og sprer liflige kaffelukter ut seg over hele Grünerløkka. Ingenting er tilfeldig på dette kaffebrenneriet.

Blumenthal og TW
Jeg tenker på tv-serien til Heston Blumenthal når jeg ser kaffe-gutta i aksjon. I Blumenthals søken etter det perfekte måltid går han også meget grundig til verks. Som en kuriositet kan nevnes at Heston Blumenthal eier og driver verdens beste spisested, The Fat Duck. Dyrt og deilig og 2 års ventetid på ledig bord. Tim med enkel V, styrer butikken denne morgenen, kvern og kaffemaskin behandles kjapt og effektivt. Gyldne dråper åpenbarer seg i kopp etter kopp. Kaffelukt og kunder. Vi, fotograf John og jeg forlater overveldet og imponert over TW, som stedet heter. TW er initialene til eier Tim Wendelboe. Vi har sett Ola og Tim V i aksjon denne morgenen og var imponert over deres ferdigheter. Tim Wendelboe selv har ubeskjedent nok som målsetting å være et av verdens beste kaffebrennerier. Med to verdensmestertitler å skilte med er han sammen med sine kolleger på TW på god vei. ( Eller helt i mål, spør du meg etter å drukket opp min kopp kaffe denne morgenen)

( FOTO: Tim Wendelboe og John Tollefsen)

04/09/2008
Haandbryggeriet

Web site

Map reference

Photo gallery

Haandbryggeriet or the Hand brewery was founded in 2005 by 4 middle-aged men who had been making beer on their own for many years. Instead of complaining about the selection and taste of beer made by commercial breweries in Norway at the time, they decided to found a craft brewery. At first, the brewery was situated in a an old hosiery factory from 1874 where they installed a new set of equipment in order to meet the requirements to producing beer commercially.

In order to make beer, they get water from Glitre lake, the same body of water from which drinking water for the town of Drammen is obtained.

Malt is bought from various high quality producers in the UK and Germany, while they grind the malt themselves in their own mill just before mashing. Depending on which type of beer they want to make, different types of yeast are used. Naturally, they also have to buy hops from abroad since there is no commercial cultivation in Norway.

A wide range of beers are made at Haandbryggeriet including India pale ale, which has a bitter taste due to a large amount of hops, via wheat beer to porter, which has a round, mild taste. However, a quick count of their beers resulted in 23 types in the core range, 12 seasonal, which are brewed at, for instance, Christmas or other special occasions, 14 barrel aged and some retired ones. The whole range of beers, which are produced at this brewery can be found here. After having grown out of their premises at the former hosier factory, the brewery was moved to a former railway workshop. In order to celebrate the move, the brewers made an India black ale called Sundland kreosot, where Sundland is the name of the railway works, while kreosot means creosote which was used to impregnate wooden beams supporting rails. They also make a beer called Norwegian wood, a traditional farmhouse ale spiced with juniper. The photo on the top of this page shows the brewer sprinkling juniper branches and berries before they would be put in the mash tun.

Haandbryggeriet arranges visits for groups regularly where they talk about how their beers are made and finishing with a menu of about 6 small courses together with a beer adapted to each course. For instance, they serve India pale ale to hot courses with chili pepper and curry, while they serve Norwegian wood to smoked salmon.

Drinking beer from this brewery afterwards should make it taste different since it now has a history and an identity in addition to its delicious taste.

Note that the beers made at this brewery are not filtered or pasteurised resulting a live beer with a finite shelf life. It may be a good idea to let their bottles rest some days before opening them, to pour out the contents carefully and not drink the remains at the bottom of the bottle.

30/08/2008
Haandbryggeriet

Øl i gourmetklassen. Haandbryggeriet i Drammen produserer gourmet-øl som eksporteres over hele verden.

Slow Food besøkte bryggeriet forleden for en prat. Vår fotograf John Tollefsen var ivrig i gang med kamera for å dokumentere vår idé, som går ut på å beskrive veien fra jord til bord. Vi ville prøve å beskrive ølbrygging på en “slow” og stillferdig måte.

Smaken av er øl er ikke bare er å feie ned et glass pils i venners lag. 92 % av alt øl som selges i Norge er pils, resten er fordelt på juleøl og andre sorter. Håndbryggeriet og andre mikrobryggerier i Norge slåss med de store aktørene om en liten del av det norsk ølmarkedet.

Øl fra Haandbryggeriet er beregnet for nytelse. De ulike sortene passer perfekt til mat. Om det er juleribba, blåmuggosten eller salaten, du finner sikkert en variant som faller i smak. Håndbryggeriet har laget en egen guide over hvilke øltyper som passer til respektive matretter.

Haandbryggeriet i Drammen tar gjerne i mot gjester og viser ølbryggingens kunster. Tar du turen får du med lukten av humle og malt, opplever håndverk, arbeidsglede og gode historien. Ølet du drikker senere vil nå smake annerledes. Ølet har fått en historie og identitet i tillegg til smaken på ølet. Det er slik det skal være, det vi spiser eller drikker må knyttes opp mot noe og få en identitet.

RELATERTE LINKER:
Haandbryggeriets varer på vinmonopolet
Haandbryggeriets hjemmesider

30/08/2008
Eiker farmhouse dairy

Web site

Map reference

Photo gallery

Eiker farmhouse dairy makes mild cheeses which are popular in restaurants in the southeastern part of Norway. Three farms near a place called Hokksund located to the west of the town Drammen are cooperating in order to direct the farmhouse dairy.

Just a few years ago, the three farms mentioned above had great problems going on as usual. Increased expenses and hard work didn’t encourage their children to go on running the farms and closing them down was a real possibility. Fortunately, the wives on the farms went to meet likeminded people in the same situation as them. The idea of starting production of cheese became a wish, an aim and finally a reality. Three farms called Grøsland, Bermingrud and Homlebekk were willing to think anew and now there is a modern factory with good prospects.

Small scale producers like Eiker farmhouse dairy depend on my and your help in order to get their products marketed and sold. Members of Slow Food aren’t just ordinary consumers, but co-producers. We can become more knowledgeable about the cheeses which are made close to where we live. We can share a tasting of cheese with others, and praise the cheeses in shops and restaurants. All these small influences contribute to keeping a large selection of taste, thus supporting local sense of belonging and food culture.

We recommend going to Eiker farmhouse dairy, taste their cheeses, visit the cows in the barn and by all means buy a piece of cheese. The cheese from Eiker which you serve to friends afterwards has got an identity. A story about the way from soil to table, locally made food, hard-working cowhands and dairy workers, and happy cows.

16/08/2008
Eiker Gaardsysteri

Glade kuer gir gode oster. Eiker gårdsysteri produserer snille oster som er populære på restaurantene i østlandsområdet. Tre gårder nær Hokksund utenfor Drammen driver samdrift og fordeler oppgavene seg imellom på Eiker Gårdsysteri.

De tre nevnte gårdene så for få år tilbake utfordringer i det å fortsette driften som før. Økte kostnader, strevsomt arbeid gav heller ikke positive signaler til barna som skulle drive gårdene videre. Nedleggelse var et alternativ. Imidlertid så var konene på de respektive gårdene på et møte med likesinnede. Ideen om å starte opp med osteproduksjon ble et ønske og et mål, og er i dag en realitet. Tre gårdsbruk Grøsland, Bermingrud og Homlebekk, som tenkte nytt, kan i dag vise frem en moderne bedrift med fremtidshåp.

En spørreundersøkelse i 2004 viste at 84 % av befolkningen ønsker å opprettholde norsk jordbruk på dagens nivå. Begrunnelsen var å opprettholde muligheten til å produsere mat av norsk kvalitet, og opprettholde bosetting og levende bygder. Likevel har ifølge SSB over 5000 gårdsbruk blitt nedlagt de siste tre årene.

Småskalprodusenter som Eiker Gårdsysteri avhengig av din og min hjelp for å få markedsført og solgt sine produkter. Medlemmer av Slow Food er jo ikke vanlige forbrukere men med-produsenter. Vi kan skaffe oss kunnskap om oster produsert i vårt nærmiljø. Vi kan dele en osteopplevelse med andre, snakke varmt om ostene i butikker og på restauranter. Alle disse små påvirkningene bidrar til å ivareta et større mangfold av smak, bygger opp om lokal tilhørighet og matkultur.

Ta gjerne turen til Eiker gårdsysteri, smak på ostene, snakk med produsentene, besøk kuene i fjøset og kjøp gjerne med et stykke ost hjem. Eiker osten som du serverer til venner en tid senere har fått en identitet. En historie om veien fra jord til bord. Om kortreist mat, driftige bønder, glade kuer og gårdsbesøk.

RELATERTE LINKER:
Eiker gårdsysteri sin hjemmeside
Kartreferanse

16/08/2008
Åpent bakeri

Web site

Map reference

Photo gallery

Country bread – although the breads are made quickly all of them are made with attention to detail.

We went to Åpent bakeri (Open bakery) early one morning in order to talk to the bakers and photograph what they were doing. Åpent bakeri delivers bakery products in accordance with tried and true methods, entailing few and small machines, manual labour, and long rest times for the dough, leading to a longer shelf life and more tasty products compared with machine-baked ones. Due to time-consuming and costly work, their products are naturally dearer than conventionally made ones, but as members of Slow Food, we are willing to pay for high quality products.

Most of the production takes place in 87, Maridalsveien in Oslo where the work is handled by skilled bakers, among several of who are French. They start working around 1130 pm and it’s full activity all night till about 8 in the morning.

Åpent Bakeri was founded in June 1998 by Øyvind Lofthus og Emmanuel Rang in the centre of Oslo. Since they didn’t want to use an electric oven, like everyone else was using, they were looking for wood-fired ovens. Somehow, Øyvind Lofthus found out that a wood-fired oven had been disassembled and stored in a place called Herand in Western Norway. He went to the owner, presented his plans for founding a bakery and said he wanted to buy the oven. Instead, he got it for free and brought it to Oslo. Then, there were no craft bakeries in Oslo and it was a real surprise to the established bakeries that Åpent Bakeri not only survived, but prospered. Having passed 17 years since the foundation, Åpent bakeri has contributed to a a wider selection and a higher quality of bakery products in Norway besides teaching apprentice bakers and confectioners, who have in turn founded their own bakeries and confectioneries.

Åpent bakeri sells several thousand breads daily, meaning that the bakers have more than enough to do at night. After all, they shall satisfy all of us who have come to grow fond of their tempting and tasty bakery products, which we can buy at nine cafes at the time of writing in Oslo.

14/08/2008
Åpent bakeri
Håndverksmessig bakst med fransk touch

Smak og nytelse i særklasse
Slow Food Oslo stakk innom Åpent bakeri en tidlig morgen for en prat og noen bilder. John Tollefsen knipset i vei, se hans flotte bilder under. Åpent bakeri leverer bakervarer etter gode, gamle metoder. Det meste av produksjonen foregår i Maridalsveien 87, hvor baksten blir behandlet for hånd av flinke bakere.

Bakerne, hvorav flere er franske, starter arbeidsdagen når vi andre går og legger oss ved 23:30-tiden. Det er full aktivitet hele natten frem til 8-tiden på morgenen. Åpent bakeri selger daglig over 2500 brød, så de glade bakere har nok å henge fingrene i på natten.

De skal tilfredsstille alle oss kunder som er blitt glade i de fristende, smakfulle og unike bakervarene som tilbys oss i de 4 utsalgsstedene i Oslo. I Boken brød kan du prøve deg på oppskriftene til Åpent bakeri.

Kontakt
Telefon: 22 04 96 67
E-post: aapent@online.no

Hovedkontor:
Maridalsveien 87

Utsalg: (kartreferanse)
Åpningstider:
Frogner, Ullevål Hageby og Torshov
Mandag – Fredag (07:30-17:00) Lørdag 09:00 – 15:00
Majorstuen:
Mandag – Fredag (07:00-17:00) Lørdag 09:00 – 15:00
08/08/2008