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Incontriamo Gianpaolo e Barbara Mura alle 2130 dopo aver superato una tortuosa salita di selciati del centro storico di Santu Lussurgiu. Gianpaolo ci accoglie alla porta delle sua tipica casa lussurgese dalla sobria facciata.
Ci guida attraverso un ampio ingresso e salendo su una elegante scalinata di ardesia nera attraversiamo vaste sale dai pavimenti in legno di rovere, pareti di trachite e alti soffitti a travature di legni pregiati. La casa si sviluppa su diversi piani falsati e in fine usciamo e salendo altre rampe esterne arriviamo nel lindo laboratorio al cui soffitto sono appese lunghe file del tradizionale “Su Casizolu“: tipico e antichissimo formaggio vaccino, prodotto nella regione Montiferru.
Questi due giovanissimi imprenditori gestiscono una pluricentinaria azienda zootecnica nel totale rispetto dei ritmi naturali. La mandria è composta da vacche di razza sardo-modicana che vivono allo stato brado e nutrendosi nei pascoli spontanei e dei foraggi coltivati biologicamente nei campi ubicati tra le alture del Montiferru e le valli digradanti verso Oristano.
Lo loro proprietà terriera si estende per centinaia di ettari, ma è suddivisa in tre diverse parti ubicate in altrittanti comuni. Nei diversi periodi dell’anno la mandria si muove dalle alture alle valli nei mesi freddi e viceversa nei mesi caldi. La razza sardo-modicana deriva da un incrocio tra la modicana importate agli inizi del 1800 dalla Sicilia con le razze locali e si diffonde nel Montiferru dove viene destinata inizialmente sopratutto al lavoro. Ben presto si scopre che dal suo latte si ricava il prezioso formaggio che prende il nome di Casizolu e negli ultimi decenni è stata rivalutata le qualità eccellenti delle sue carni. Oggi, nel Montiferru, da questi mandrie si seleziona il cosìdetto “Bue Rosso”, vitellone dalla carne pregiata.
Gianpaolo e Barbara, pur producende anche il “Bue Rosso”, si sono specializzati nel pregiato formaggio dalla caratteristica forma a grande pera. Loro sono molti orgoglosi del loro sistema di produzione saldamente ancorato alla tradizione suggerita dai cicli naturali delle stagioni e dai cicli riproduttivi degli animali, ma non vogliono che il loro prodotto sia nominato come presidio Slow Food perché vogliono rimanere indipendenti.
Per produrre il questo tipo di formaggio, il caglio deve essere trattato con le mani fino a diventare liscio, elastico e filante; allo stesso tempo, la temperatura del caglio deve raggiungere i 45°C. Abbiamo visto Barbara fare questo lavoro che sembra molto faticoso e lungo. Quando il caglio raggiunge la necessaria elasticità per essere manipolato, Gianpaolo prende in mano una parte del caglio e lavorandola con le mani, forma una lunga palla molto elastica che sotto gli abili movimenti manuali prende la forma lunga della classica pera dalla base gonfia e arrotondata, terminante con un sottile collo.
Quando è soddisfatto della forma estetica ottenuta, la mette in un contenitore pieno di acqua salata (salamoia) dove si deve girare la peretta, che galleggia in superficie, a intervalli regolari di tempo, per impedire che la forma diventi irregolare. Il formaggio deve rimanere nell’acqua per qualche ora, fino a quando la temperatura del formaggio si aggira sui 20°C. Poi, si mette il formaggio in una retina e lo si appende ad un’asta di legno sistemata all’altezza del soffitto dove viene lasciata ad asciugare.
Gianpaolo e Barabara hanno una bella casa con una antica cantina senza finestre in cui si crea una temperatura ideale, dove il formaggio una volta asciugato, viene lasciato a stagionare.
Visite alle aziende e redazione degli articoli realizzati in collaborazione con la scuola Terramare.
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