Tag: ricotta

  • Rustici farm

    A dairy worker is lifting up the curd with a wooden tool

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    I have already been to this farm twice, as described here and here.

    Since many activities occur at this farm, it’s necessary to return several times at various times of the year in order to have at least a partial knowledge of the various phases of work and the activities occurring at this farm. This time, it started with watching what happens from when he cows are milked till the milk is turned into various types of cheese. As the other times I’ve been there, the Rustici family have always been very accommodating regarding showing us how they raise their animals, cows and pigs, how they are growing a wide variety of vegetables and how they make cheese.

    This time, we could watch the big Friesian cows being milked. Twice a day, at 5 in the morning and 12 hours later, the cows are ready to be milked. First, the cows are queuing in a corridor outside the room where they are going to be milked. Next, a worker opens a door, letting a group of cows enter one side of the room and, when it’s full, another group enters the other side. Finally, the worker closes the door such the other cows just have to wait.

    Next, the teats of each cow is washed with a detergent and milking cups are attached to each of them. The milking cups are connected to pumps, which bring the milk to a refrigerated container. At the same time, a computer, with the aid of some sensors, identify each cow and controls the pump in accordance with the capacity of each animal. That is, one cow may require 2 minutes to be milked, while another one may require 3 minutes. Moreover, another sensor measures the activity of each cow’s legs. If they are moving a lot, the cow may be ready for artificial insemination. The computer also records the quantity of milk each cow delivers during its whole life, making it possible to monitor various parameters of the cattle daily over a long time.

    The next day we could watch how the milk was turned into dairy products in the farmhouse dairy located a sort distance from the cows. Upon arrival, the dairy workers had already finished making cheese and they were busy producing ricottta meaning recooked in Italian because the milk is cooked twice, the first time for making cheese and the second one for making ricotta. In each case, the milk is heated in a stainless steel container having double walls inside of which tubes let hot water flow freely, heating the remaining whey indirectly to about 38-40°C. We could watch white flakes of curd appearing on the surface of the whey. When there was enough curd on the surface, a dairy worker used a sieve with a handle to lift it up and put it in a perforated plastic basket, letting the remaining whey flow out and letting the ricotta remain.

    Next, this procedure was done repeatedly, putting each layer on top of the former one. When one porous basket was full, another one was filled. All the baskets were put on an inclining work table with a hole at the lower end through which the whey could flow through a hose to a container. When the container was full, its contents were pumped into a container on the outside of the building. Next, the whey would be given to the pigs as supplementary feed.

    Actually, the dairy workers had started making cheese early in the morning and one of the dairy workers turned perforated plastic cylinders upside down occasionally in order to let the whey escape.

    Unbeknown to us, the dairy workers had prepared another container seemingly only containing whey, but in reality containing a large amount of curd below the surface. While one dairy worker was making ricotta, another one took a small amount of curd, formed it into a small ball and compressed it, pressing out the whey. Next, he put a pH sensor inside the ball and when it was 5.0, the curd was ready to be extracted and kneaded. After having pumped out the whey into the container on the outside, he cut loose a large part of the curd with a knife, lifting up on a work table whose surface was curving slightly downwards, having a hole in the centre, and being surrounded by walls of stainless steel. There, the dairy workers started compressing and kneading the curd, getting rid of the whey, which was collected in a container below the table.

    Having partially driven out the whey, the blocks of curd were transferred to a big funnel on the top of a machine. After having passed a hole at the base of the funnel, the curd was forced to enter a room where an Archimedean screw was rotating continuously, dividing the curd into small fragments. The dairy workers poured the container with the small fragments into a large bowl, kneading and compressing the fragments before another dairy worker poured water at 90°C on the curd fragments.

    Next, he used a wooden tool, looking like an oar, to stir the mixture of hot water and curd into a compact, homogeneous and elastic paste, called pasta filata.

    Next, two dairy workers carried the bowl containing the pasta filata to another machine into which they poured the contents of the bowl. There, another Archimedean screw forced the paste to enter a stainless steel roller with holes symmetrically placed across its whole surface. The rotational speed of the Archimedean screw and the roller was set to 14 revolutions per minute in order to make mozzarella shaped like small spheres called bocconcini.

    At the same time, water containing some whey, called acqua di governo, where the whey is used to add softness and structure to the mozzarella cheese, was pouring continuously over the roller.

    As the roller was rotating, the bocconcini fell down into a small tank containing water with whey, forming small white spheres. Finally, the bocconcini would be packaged together with some of the water in the tank.

    Another type of mozzarella called fior di latte is also made at this dairy.

    It was a great pleasure to visit this farm, watching able workers do their work seemingly effortless.

  • Azienda Biologica Agro-zootecnica “Rustici”

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    Sono già stato due volte in questa azienda, negli anni scorsi, come descritto qua e qua.

    Siccome è un’azienda multifunzionale, è necessario tornare alcune volte nelle diverse stagioni dell’anno per avere almeno una conoscenza parziale delle varie fasi di lavorazione e di tutte le attività connesse all’allevamento del bestiame e alla trasformazione del latte. Come sempre, la famiglia Rustici è stata molto disponibile a mostrarci i diversi allevamenti (mucche e maiali) e a permetterci di assistere alla produzione dei formaggi, della ricotta e delle mozzarelle.

    Questa volta abbiamo assistito alle operazioni di mungitura delle mucche di razza frisona e alla trasformazione del latte.

    Due volte al giorno, alle 5 e mezzo la mattina e 12 ore dopo, le mucche sono pronte per essere munte.

    Le loro mammelle sono piene di latte e hanno veramente bisogno di essere spurgate.
    Le mucche vengono introdotte verso la stanza dove sono gli attrezzi per la mungitura. Prima, un operaio apre una porta attraverso la quale le mucche possono passare dall’ambiente esterno alla sala di mungitura, fino ad occupare ciascuna il suo proprio spazio. Ai lati della sala mungitura ci sono due passaggi obbligati che devono essere entrambi occupati da un certo numero di animali, e infatti, l’operaio, dopo avere riempito uno dei due corridoi di mungitura, apre la seconda porta per consentire alle altre mucche di posizionarsi nel secondo corridoio. Dopo di che le porte vengono chiuse e cominciano le operazioni di mungitura.

    Dopo la pulizia dei capezzoli con una schiuma detergente, il mungitore vi applica le tazze di mungitura e attraverso una pompa si dà il via alla raccolta del latte che passa, attraverso un filtro, in un contenitore refrigerante. Allo stesso tempo, un computer con qualche sensore identifica ogni mucca e pompa il latte dalla mucca in conformità della capacità di quest’animale. Cioè, una mucca ha bisogno di 2 minuti per essere munta, mentre una altra richiede 3 minuti. Inoltre, un altro sensore misura l’attività delle gambe della mucca. Se si muove molto, sarebbe pronta per l’inseminazione artificiale. Il computer registra anche la quantità di latte di ogni mucca durante la sua vita così che sia possibile vedere i vari parametri nei diversi momenti del giorno.

    La mattina successiva abbiamo potuto assistere alla trasformazione del latte, quindi alla produzione dei latticini. L’azienda ha un proprio caseificio.

    Quando siamo entrati nel caseificio era in lavorazione la ricotta: dopo aver riscaldato il latte e aver fuscellato il formaggio, si riscalda il siero in un grande contenitore con un doppio fondo atto a contenere l’acqua calda che produce indirettamente il riscaldamento del siero alla temperatura necessaria per produrre la ricotta. I fiocchi di latte stanno apparendo sulla superficie del siero. Quando i fiocchi sono pronti, si usa una paletta bucherellata per prenderli e trasferirli in fuscelle traforate per permettere la continua fuoriuscita del siero contenuto nella ricotta. Le fuscelle vengono sistemate sul carrello di lavoro fino al riempimento del piano e strato dopo strato si trasferisce la ricotta al loro interno. Il carrello è inclinato così che il siero fluisca verso un foro collegato ad un tubo che lo trasferisce nel secchio sottostante. Quando il secchio è pieno, si pompa il siero in un contenitore esterno e verrà utilizzato come integratore alimentare per i maiali. Questo liquido impoverito dalla caseina si chiama “scotta”.

    In un altro contenitore c’è la cagliata che, avendo raggiunto il pH richiesto per produrre la mozzarella (il pH deve scendere a 5.10/5.00° per determinare il giusto tasso di acidità), è stata divisa con la “Lira” che è un attrezzo per triturare la cagliata, chiamato così per la sua forma che ricorda quella dello strumento musicale per i suoi fili d’acciaio.

    Il casaro prende un pezzo di cagliata e la comprime per ottenere una forma sferica, facendone uscire il siero. Poi si misura la pH della palla e quando questo si avvicina ai 5°, la cagliata può essere estratta e impastata. Contemporaneamente si può usare una pompa per cominciare ad aspirare il siero dal contenitore e pomparlo nella cisterna dove si trova già il sottoprodotto del siero privato dalla ricotta: la scotta.

    Quando nel contenitore rimane solo la cagliata, la si taglia in tante porzioni maneggevoli, così da poterle trasferire manualmente sul carrello dal piano concavo e dagli alti bordi contro i quali comprimere con la forza delle braccia e delle mani la cagliata diventata compatta ed elastica. In questo modo, pressandola sui bordi, si fa uscire il siero che viene raccolto nel secchio sotto il carrello.

    Comincia così la fase chiamata “asciugatura” che prosegue con l’introduzione della cagliata semi-pressata manualmente dentro una sorta di grande imbuto, il cui collo è attraversato da una vite archimede che avvolgendosi intorno all’impasto conclude la fase dell’asciugatura riducendo la massa della cagliata in frammenti filamentosi che vengono manipolati ulteriormente all’uscita da questo ingranaggio che costituisce la parte interna del macchinario chiamato “Taglia-cagliata”.

    Gradualmente, pezzo per pezzo, la cagliata viene ancora pressata a mano e trasferita in un grande mastello dove si versa l’acqua calda a 90° continuando ad amalgamare con un lungo mestolo a forma di remo fino a ottenere un impasto compatto, omogeneo ed elastico, precisamente “filante” e questa si chiama la “pasta filata”.

    Finita la fase della filatura, l’amalgama filante viene trasferito nel contenitore superiore di un altro macchinario che ha un’apertura alla sua base. Li, c’è una vite archimedea che forza la pasta ad entrare in un rullo con piccoli fori. Prima si avvia il macchinario, lo si programma così che la vite archimedea faccia 14 giri al minuto per fare mozzarelle sferiche di piccole dimensioni, chiamate bocconcini.

    Allo stesso tempo, l’acqua di governo, che si usa per aumentare il gusto delle mozzarelle, fluisce sopra il rullo e c’è anche un contenitore pieno di acqua di governo sotto il rullo. Quando i fori con i bocconcini si avvicinano il contenitore sotto, cadono nell’acqua, formando piccole palle. Alla fine, vengono imballati in bustine di plastica insieme alla cosiddetta “acqua di governo”.

    Si fa anche il fior di latte classico che sono mozzarelle più grandi dei bocconcini.

  • Sheepfold near the village of Budesti in Maramures

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    Having passed the picturesque village of Budesti in Maramures and driving on a gravel road for some kilometres, we arrived at the dwelling of a group of shepherds. Since they were outside looking after their animals, we could at least see that these guys were very practical, having made chairs and tables using trees from the forest in order to make life a little easier. Actually, they were residing at a sheepfold, which we had passed on the way to their house. Approaching on foot, we were met by a bunch of rather fierce livestock guarding dogs, and all we could do was to wait until one of the shepherds arrived. Having been “liberated”, we could finally approach the sheepfold.

    The sheepfold was located in a lovely place, being surrounded by hills and forests, and situated on a meadow. The shepherds were busy milking the sheep and a few goats, while one guy made the sheep enter the shed where they would be milked. Having milked all the animals, they brought the milk in cans and poured it into a large wooden barrel. Heating the milk and adding rennet, the milk was ready to be separated into cheese mass and liquid after about half an hour. Lifting the cheese mass out of the barrel and putting it into porous pieces of cloth which were hung up, the compressing of the cheese mass which were always done in the small dairies we had visited, was replaced by using  the force of gravity only.  After having made the first set of cheese, they poured the remaining liquid into a big pot and heated it on a wood-fired oven.

    After lunch, they stirred the liquid continuously until a thin layer appeared on the top. Having removed it, it was time to get hold of the ricotta cheese. That is, re-cooked cheese. Having placed all the ricotta cheese in a porous cloth and hung it up to dry, the remaining liquid was poured into a round trough where the dogs hungrily slurped it up.

    In the end, the shepherds let out all their animals from the enclosure and started bringing them to the lovely hills surrounding the sheepfold.

    Next to the enclosure, there was a primitive hut made of sticks and plastic in which one of the shepherds would sleep at night since wolves and bears are certainly able to attack their animals.

  • Visiting a sheepfold near Saschiz

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    We went by a horse-drawn cart from a Saxon village called Saschiz to another sheepfold. Leaving Saschiz quickly behind us, the strong mare Dora pulled us upwards on cobbled roads, then passing fields of maize until we came to meadows covered by hay. Dora, being a strong horse, and the horse-man driving her on, we quickly got within reach of a horse-drawn cart filled to the brim with hay. Fortunately, they turned left and we were free to go as we pleased passing meadows, deciduous trees and enjoying lovely views of the Transylvanian countryside. When we were approaching the sheepfold, the ever-present guarding dogs were the first ones to meet us, then we drove down to the sheepfold.

    The setup was more or less a copy of what we had seen before: one large enclosure encircling a smaller one bordered by a shed with two holes large enough for one sheep to pass through.

    Just 3 shepherds were milking the sheep, while a young girl who was probably the girlfriend of one them, was just sitting next to them milking no sheep. Of course, another shepherd was tasked with chasing the sheep into the small container, closing the gate when it was full and solving any problems the sheep might have with entering the shed. This day wasn’t as hot as the day when we visited the sheepfold near Viscri when the sheep seemed to be breathing heavily all the time. Another reason for the more relaxed behaviour of these sheep was that one guy was continually shearing sheep, having sheared one just selected another one. I was impressed seeing this guy bending over a sheep in the hot sun, shearing for hours. Anyway, getting rid of all that wool must have been great for them.

    The milking of the sheep was by now a standard procedure offering no surprises apart from some fit sheep which tried to jump past the shepherds but always ending up being restrained by their tails and milked.

    Due to unpredictable behaviour of the guarding dogs, we let Dora bring us from the sheepfold to the hut where the cheese would be made. The cheesemaking was done the same way as we had seen before, one shepherd putting his arms into the milk and gradually extracting the cheese mass. After having put it in a cloth and hung it up, the rest of the whey was put in a large pot, heated and after some time the ricotta cheese was lifted up and put in another container by means of a sieve. The whey was poured into a container providing food for their pigs.

    A large number of pigs were just resting in the shade during our visit, while some puppies were playing. Eventually, their mother arrived apparently full of milk ready to be consumed by her puppies.

    We were also shown a baby deer which had been left by its mother just a few days before. It made a loud squeaking noise for some reason.

    Having watched both milking, cheesemaking and shearing, it was time to let trustworthy Dora and her horseman bring us safely back to Saschiz. Getting encouraging calls more or less constantly from the horseman, she easily brought us back again.

  • The Suciu family

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    Having visited Rozalia, we crossed the street in order to visit Elena and her husband Adrian Suciu. They have about 200 goats and they produce various types of goat cheese which they mix with one of the following:

    • nuts
    • pepper
    • caraway
    • green pepper
    • mint
    • basil

    The goats reside close to Crit and having gone to the outskirts of the village, then followed a very bumpy road for a few minutes, we arrived at an enclosure with the goats. The system for milking was the same as we had seen for the sheep, that is a small enclosure from which the animals can only exit through two small holes in the wall of a shed. There, Adrian and a worker milked each goat by hand while a young boy made sure that there were always goats ready to enter the shed.

    Having milked the goats twice daily, Adrian brings the milk by car to a small dairy next to their house. Having just arrived with the milk, they pour it into a large container through a filter. Heating the milk up to about 40°C, adding rennet in order to separate the whey from the cheese mass, the cheese mass is lifted up into plastic moulding forms which are placed in a container with a sink such that the whey can be collected in a another container. In the beginning, they have to turn the cheeses around every 10 minutes both to the get rid of the whey and to let the cheeses keep their shapes. After some time, salt is added both to put taste to the cheese and to get rid of more of the whey.

    They also made sour cream by pouring some of the milk into a small container on top of a separator. Then, skimmed milk was running down one side of the separator, while sour cream was running down another one, both being collected in separate containers.

    Adrian also made a cheese called ricotta which means recooked in Italian. The whey from just one production was brought outside in a large pot and hung from a horizontal bar. Then, he made a fire below the pot and stirred they whey more or less continuously in order to avoid burning of the remaining cheese in the whey. After some time, a foam started appearing on the top of the whey which he removed carefully by means of a sieve. A little bit later, the cheese mass started thickening and Adrian used a sieve to pick it up and pour into another container through a porous cloth. In this way, the ricotta would remain on top of the cloth, while the whey would end up in the container. Afterwards, the cloth was tied around the ricotta and hung up to the let the whey exit.

    In addition to helping her husband make cheese, Elena also makes lots of jams and sweet fruit juices. She makes the following jams:

    • apricot
    • elder fruits
    • cornelian cherries
    • wax cherry
    • plums
    • plums with nuts and cinnamon
    • morello cherry
    • rose hip
    • wild strawberry

    She makes the following fruit juices:

    • blackberry
    • acacia flowers
    • bitter cherry

    The products of the Suciu family are for domestic consumption, tourists and various markets in Romania.

  • The Turra farm

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    After having been driving in the countryside east of Osilo for some kilometres, we arrived at the Turra farm situated at the top of a small hill. From there, we were able to see rolling hills and valleys besides a set of windmills in the horizon. Briefly, it’s a very beautiful and sparsely populated area.

    The Turra farm is managed by Giovanni Turra, his son Gavinuccio and his wife Rina, and has been family-driven for many generations.

    The Turra farm, a Slow Food presidium, is producing sheep’s cheese according to ancient traditions. Having lots of hills and valleys at their disposal, the 350 Sarda sheep at the farm can roam freely across a large area, making superb mutton.

    Since it was time for milking shortly after we had arrived, we could watch a group of sheep together with a flock of lambs coming from a nearby meadow and entering the house where the milking should take place. Gavinuccio first put feed in a long trough, then the sheep were allowed to enter a long row of vertical bars, putting their heads between the vertical bars and eating from the trough. After having locked the heads of all the sheep by closing the bars around the head of each sheep, we could watch Gavinuccio doing the milking manually. Thereafter, we were invited into the dairy, where Giovanni and Rina had finished making their famous sheep’s cheese and ricotta just before we arrived.

    While Gavinuccio was milking the sheep, we were shown around the dairy by Rina and her father-in-law Giovanni. The dairy has about 20 presses in addition to appropriate weights which are used to compress the cheeses and the ricotta mustia (a soft, delicate, white and compact cheese) in order to press out the whey, that is the liquid part of the milk. After having been compressed for some hours, the sheep’s cheeses are transferred to containers filled with water and salt. The cheeses stay floating in this mixture for some days. At the same time, as much salt is added that it isn’t dissolved in the water. Besides, a layer of salt is added on top of each cheese because the salt aids in getting rid of the whey. After the salting, the cheeses are stored in a cellar with a stable temperature around 15°C in order to mature.

    Rina and her father-in-law also produce ricotta dolce and ricotta mustia, the latter being smoked in a small room by means of burning aromatic branches of Mediterranean maquis (mastic, wild olive, juniper, etc.). Before the smoking is carried out, the elliptical discs of ricotta, previously salted and compressed, are placed on a bed of reeds, collected from groves of reeds which grow abundantly along river banks nearby.

    Of course, we couldn’t leave the farm without having accepted a coffee gently offered by Rina.