Tag: Oslo

  • Brødbakerne

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    Having passed the bakery and baker’s shop called Brødbakerne or The Bread Bakers in English to and from work in addition to buying their delicious products, it was finally time to pay them a visit. The occasion was a multimedia course where everyone had to conduct and record an interview together with taking photos.

    The owner and founder, Jesper Pedersen, started his education as a baker when he was 15 and has been working with bakery products ever since. Having obtained his craft certificate and worked for some time in Denmark, he came to Norway in the early 2000s since there was more work available here. Since his cousin was working at Åpent bakeri, whose bakers have lifted the selection and quality of bread in Norway to a level not known here before, he was interviewed in the afternoon and started working there the next morning. Åpent bakeri has also educated a diverse range of highly skilled bakers who have gone on to to found bakeries in various places of Norway. Another highly skilled baker, the above mentioned Jesper, founded the bakery Brødbakerne at Jar in Oslo about 5 years ago together with another baker. In the beginning, they made breads which they brought to restaurants. However, due to their delicious bakery products, they also set up a baker’s shop next to their bakery in addition to founding another combined bakery and baker’s shop at Skøyen about 2 years ago. In fact, the name The Bread Bakers only tells part of the story since they also make pastries tasting so good that I have to force myself to avoid eating them or risk gaining weight. Having witnessed how they are making Danish pastries, adding sugar and vast quantities of butter to the dough, I think this is a wise choice.

    The photos show how Danish pastries are made. After having made dough using sugar, flour, yeast and water, the dough is rolled flat and covered with a thick layer of butter, the dough is folded again before being rolled again by means of a machine. Folding and rolling the dough several times, in the end, layers of dough and butter will be on top of each other like the pages of a book with the dough also forming the cover. After cooling in order to slow down leavening, Jesper and his employee Vladimir from Estonia, cut up the dough in triangles, which they rolled into cylinders. After leavening, their products would be baked and be ready for sale in the shop located next to the bakery.

    Vladimir also covered parts of the same dough with a thin layer of chocolate together with sugar. After having folded and rolled the dough, he cut it into rectangles, which he skillfully tied in knots before covering them with egg yolk together with a mix of sugar and cinnamon.

    Having watched quite a few bakers and confectioners a work, I’ve always been impressed at their level of dexterity and all of them making it seem like their work is easy. However, I had to ask Jesper about what he felt about his work and I told him that my impression is that although they are doing more or less the same every day, their work will never be routine. Moreover, the ambient temperature and the humidity will also affect how they treat the dough. Yes, he told me, depending on the ambient temperature we have to cool the water on hot days, even adding ice cubes when we are making Danish pastries, while we may be using tepid water on cold days. Depending on the humidity, we also have to vary the baking time of our products. Although our customers think that our products are excellent, we can always detect changes and small defects, meaning that no two breads are alike, even though they are made from the same dough. Not to speak of bread made from two different doughs, which will always be different. Since their products are hand made, Jesper told me that he never feels like he has made perfect products and that he should always have improved something. For example, limited capacity in the ovens may lead to that their products won’t be baked immediately, while limited space leads to that the bakers have to wait for each other.

    In addition to using water, flour, salt and yeast for their breads, their guiding principle is to let the making of their products take its time, meaning 6-7 hours from preparing the dough to a finished bread although this will vary in accordance with the type of bread.

    A visit to the bread bakers

  • Organic food delivered at your doorstep

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    Kolonihagen abonnement delivers organic food to consumers, meaning both companies and private households, inside and outside of Oslo.

    If you want to know more, you will find lots of information on here.  Boxes filled with fruit, vegetables, bread and lots of other delicious stuff can be found in all of them. If you are going away for some time, you can easily stop the subscription for as long as you want.

    Besides using organic food, local producers are used as far as possible. This means that the customers of Kolonihagen abonnement are supporting local and organic farms in addition to receiving excellent agricultural products.

    Since the Norwegian Ministry of Agiculture and Food wants an organic share of the total agricultural produce increase to 15% within 2020, all contributions are welcome. Buying tests have shown that fruit and vegs from Kolonihagen are not more expensive than well-assorted food stores in Oslo.

    Maybe the canteen at the Ministry of Agiculture and Food could start buying organic food from Kolonihagen? How much of the food served in the canteen of the Ministry is organic? I sent them an email in October, and I’m still waiting for a reply. I guess the late or never-arriving reply indicates that the share is quite low.

    Organic food in Norway is still marginal and only for specially interested citizens. The share is so low that the government often includes agricultural areas which are being converted to growing organic produce. The numbers are 4.7% organic produce in 2009, and 5.6% including the aforementioned areas. Looking at our neighbouring country Denmark which has set a high priority to growing organic food, quite impressive results have been obtained. For instance, canteens at schools, hospitals and homes for the elderly in Copenhagen, have a share of 70% organic food, and they are aiming for 90% organic within 2015.

    For further information: København Mathus is responsible for the practical execution of including organic food in public canteens in Copenhagen.

     

  • Kolonihagen bakery

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    Kolonihagen bakery in Oslo has found a niche market by means of using traditional types of grain like spelt, baking manually and slowly, following nature’s requirements, and using organic ingredients.

    A lot of bakers were competing on Saturday 16 October 2010, the International Bread Day. Kolonihagen Bakery won first prize with their spelt breadrolls in the category fibre/bran bread. Not unexpectedly, Åpent Bakeri won 3 first prizes.

    The excellent, manually made baker’s products which have become popular in the Norwegian capital was started by Åpent Bakeri, which was founded by Emanuel Rang and Øyvind Lofthus in 1997. They were concentrating on manual baking, letting their bakery products mature naturally, and using a wood-fired oven, which was freighted from Hardanger in the west of Norway to Damplassen in Oslo and working with passion. Besides, by employing bakers who bake manually, lots of their bakers have gone on to found new bakeries like United Bakeries, Kanel Kafe in Sandvika, a baker called Morten Schakenda started a bakery in Lom, and of course, Kolonihagen Bakery in Oslo.

    Kolonihagen Bakery delivers baker’s products weekly or biweekly to their customers who get organic food on their doorsteps and daily to the restaurant Kolonihagen Frogner. The remainder is sold to nearby hotels and restaurants.

    From soil to table visited the bakery shortly after they had been awarded for their spelt breadrolls for which we naturally asked for the recipe. Below is listed a version for making them at home.

    Ingredients:

    • 3.5 decilitres of water
    • 300-400 grams of spelt flour
    • 100 grams of polished spelt (the bran has been removed)
    • 100 grams of crushed spelt
    • 100 grams carrots
    • 10 grams salt
    • 25 grams yeast

    Pumpkin seeds to be sprinkled on the top of the breadrolls.

    How to proceed:

    The day before you want to bake, mix the polished spelt with the crushed spelt and put on water in order to soak the mixture such that the spelt will attract water overnight.

    Mix all the ingredients in a bowl and put the mixture in the food processor. Let it run slowly for 2-3 minutes. Then, turn up the speed such that the dough doesn’t touch the bowl. Let the dough raise for about 2 hours

    Cut up the dough sized like breadrolls. Tip! Moisten the work bench and your hands such that the dough is not attaching to anything. The breadrolls should have round forms since the dough is quite loose. The diameter of the breadrolls should be about 10 cm.

    Let the breadrolls raise at least 25 minutes. Start at a temperature of 250 C, turning it gradually down to 230 C.

    Use organic ingredients only! Kolonihagen is only using organic, stone milled flour from Holli flour mill together with organic, Norwegian carrots.

  • Strøm-Larsen – butcher’s store

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    Strøm-Larsen, located at Torshov in Oslo, is a butcher’s store with its own sausage makery and is one of a few specialised butcher’s stores left in Oslo.

    Alf Strøm-Larsen, fourth generation in the family run enterprise, asked us to dress in special, hygienic clothing before showing us around the sausage makery and the meat processing. The store, facing the street, has an abundant selection of delicacies, made by the sausage makers and the cooks, while the customers are served by knowledgeable salespersons.

    Since Strøm-Larsen was founded in 1904, high quality products and good service have always characterised the company. Competition from the chain stores has led to that the owners have decided to expand to catering and doing their own wholesale. The present owner, Alf Strøm-Larsen said that the wholesale constituted more than half of the sales. Doing wholesale is also useful because our customers give us ideas to new products and tastes, like our best sellers, creole chili sausage and samba sausage.

    A narrow stair led us to the sausage makery where we could watch able hands cutting up and preparing meat for delicacies. Ascending another narrow stair, we arrived at the catering department where tasty and tempting meals were made, ranging from imported meals like tortillas to traditional ones like potato dumplings and liver in cream sauce.

    The web page of Strøm-Larsen contains an overview of their great selection of food together with catering and wholesale products. A delicious mix of traditional Norwegian meals together with imported ones.

    We ask everyone to support local meat and delicacy stores before they disappear completely. Please don’t only compare the prices in the chain store with the delicacy store, but also look at the declaration of contents, ask for advice on how to cook the products, where they are coming from, what do they contain, and so on.

  • The Fish Central

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    Fresh fish of high quality can be found in the fish hall on the Akershus quay. The Fish Central, one of the members of a cooperative society in the Fish Hall, start working at 4 in the morning and continues at a high pace till 9 in the morning before work is calming down. That is, the orders of fish shops and restaurants in and around Oslo have to be carried out before the guys at the Fish Central can take a well-deserved rest.

    Day-to-day head Mr. Magne Paulsen greeted us quickly before resuming his work. In fact, it seemed like everyone was busy carrying fish from somewhere and putting it in an styrofoam box already partially filled with ice. An indoor temperature of about 10 degrees centigrade also contributed to that everyone had to work in order to keep warm. It was definitely not a place for tender and lethargic souls.

    Most of the fish had been caught off the western coast of Norway, from the latitude of Bergen to as far north as the latitude of Trondheim, Magne said. He also said that lots of people are working in order to bring the fish to the Fish Hall. After the fishermen have caught the fish and brought it on shore where it is prepared and packaged with ice in styrofoam boxes by other workers. Then, the boxes are freighted with trailers to Oslo.

    The Fish Central receive orders from fish shops and restaurants in and around Oslo. After having received an order, another styrofoam box is partially filled with ice before being filled with fresh sea food, packaged and sent to the customers more or less continuously.

    What do you think of when I mention fresh fish, I ask Magne. Fish is like meat, it needs time to mature, he replies. Fish, which has justly been fished, has a loose meat and doesn’t taste really good. However, storing the fish for some time is good for the fish. The fish gets a firmer meat and develops a better taste. Seasonal variations are also important meaning that each type of fish is only suitable for eating parts of the year. Now is the time for fresh mackerel, but definitely not for cod, according to the fishmonger, before running away in order to take care of another order.

    We find the boss again after some time chopping up a big mackerel shark. Magne, it’s dead, someone says, but with no noticeable effect on his work. The mackerel shark was a thumping, big one weighing 133 kg.

    We thanked Magne Paulsen and his colleagues for allowing us to visit them, closed the door behind us and hurried out into the sunlight, which made the buildings along the Akershus quay look golden. One and a half hour in such a cool place made us really longing for a cup of coffee.

    Next time you buy sea food in the fish shop, remember that lots of people in Norway have been working hard in order to bring a meal of seafood to your home. Remember too that this fish hasn’t been frozen and unfrozen several times, not been caught illegally and not been freighted around the world which is good to know in these busy times.

  • Bakery oven seminar

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    Slow Food Oslo together with the Society for the Preservation of Norwegian Ancient Monuments (Fortidsminneforeningen), the Foundation Bogstad farm and Kompetansenettverket, a public organization for aiding small-scale food producers arranged a bakery oven seminar at Bogstad farm on Thursday 23 April.

    The person who initiated the seminar was Elsa “Sprossa” Rønnevig and in addition, the following persons held speeches:

    • Hotel director and cook Harald Olav Lie-Nilsen
    • Mason Espen Martinsen
    • Baker Øyvind Lofthus, Åpent bakeri (Open bakery)
    • Norwegian cooking champion, Trond Moi, Bølgen & Moi
    • Architect Ole Christian Torkildsen
    • Baker Erik Olofson, Sweden

    The seminar was opened by Elisabeth Seip who told us that the bakery oven was built in the 1760s and is still located in the same house in which it was built. Bogstad farm was privately owned for about 200 years until 1955 when the sisters Egeberg donated the farm to the municipality of Oslo provided that it should still be driven as a farm.

    History of the bakery ovens

    Harald Olav Lie-Nielsen went back to the origin of the bread about 9,000 years ago before turning to the Romans. After having conquered Greece, the Romans brought Greek bakers to Rome and they also taught the Romans how to bake. Thereafter, the art of baking has been passed down generations up to our times.

    Since grains are best conserved as grains, while flour will turn inedible after a short time, our ancestors began to make flat bread in the 1300s for the simple reason that it doesn’t mould, while rich people imported wheat, malt and honey from Great Britain.
    The bakery ovens are dependent on an abundant access to wheat and rye which led to that the bakery ovens were located mainly along the coast, while making of flat bread was continued inland. Besides, an abundant source of fuel has to be available, which consisted mostly of spruce in Norway.

    The bakery ovens were constructed in houses where heating was necessary for activities like brewing beer, making liquors, slaughtering animals, washing clothes and moulding candles.

    The cast iron oven arrived around 1850 where many breads could be baked at the same time, but the bakery ovens were still in use until about 1945.

    As leavening agents were used yeast, sourdough starters and enzymes from calves’ stomachs where yeast has been used for the longest time.

    Construction of bakery ovens has been based on local traditions and materials.

    Problems and joys in connection with bakery ovens

    Else Rønnevig decided to use the bakery oven as a means to increase interest and respect for our building heritage in 1987. Then, she got restored an old bakery oven which had been used for ages by her grandmother. One of her childhood memories was when they fired the oven with heather which they collected and let stay outside when the frosts arrived having the fortunate consequence that the roots broke off.

    Restoration of the bakery oven was far from easy, among other things, an iron door to open and close the oven. She called the iron works at Ulefoss in order to order one, but was instead told that they hadn’t been produced for about 60 years. In the end, she got one door made at a local workshop in Arendal. Thereafter, the iron works at Ulefoss has restarted their production of iron doors, but in small quantities only. The grandmother of Ms Rønnevig used a wooden door which was made wet just before another baking should start.

    In order to pay for the restoration, Ms. Rønnevig cycled around the town of Lillesand with homemade bread priced at 60 Norwegian krones each!

    Small and big bakery ovens have been built in Norway for several hundred years. None of them were equal and no drawings were made. Instead, the building of bakery ovens were passed on from generation to generation. For each oven which was built, available space, the number of breads which could be baked at the same time in addition to the craftsman’s knowledge and capabilities decided the resulting oven.

    Those who are interested in baking bread in a traditional oven, can join a course run by Ms. Rønnevig.

    She also mentioned decoration of bread which originated with the Hanseatics in Bergen.

    Experience with restoring old bakery ovens

    Espen Martinsen is master mason, who restores old bakery ovens. Before restoration can start, the bakery oven has to be documented. This consists of photographing and registering the present state of the oven in addition to disassemble it in order to see how it has been made. Restoration of an oven will always be a cooperation between the owner, the craftsman and local authorizing authority, normally the local master chimney sweeper.

    Building and restoration of bakery ovens is mainly done with local materials, that is, clay and lime mortar in addition to bricks and stones. Lime mortar isn’t so hard and strong as cement mortar, but its advantages makes it invaluable in a bakery oven because it releases strains in the oven. The strains arise when the oven is warmed up and the materials in the oven expand at different rates with temperature. While concrete will not give way, the lime mortar will, leading to that the different expansions of the materials in the oven will be released. Instead, using concrete, the strains won’t be released and cracks will arise.

    Another building material which is widely used is clay. Clay originates either from sediments in lakes or from moraines. In order to find the right type of clay, Mr Martinsen cooperates with the Geological Survey of Norway. Thus, using local clay and stones, all or most of the oven consists of local materials.

    In addition to lime mortar and clay, bricks are also used. Based on years of trial and error, it has been found that weakly burnt bricks should be used in the lower part of the heating chamber, while strongly burnt ones may be used in the upper part of the same chamber.

    Principles for building of bakery ovens, fire regulations, etc.

    Ole Chr Torkildsen works as an architect, but he also has a versatile experience as a carpenter restoring old wooden houses. He has demolished many bakery ovens in order to see how they are built. A bakery oven should at least consist of the following:

    • smoke channel
    • heating chamber
    • cast iron door

    and it should be constructed by means of bricks and stones. The bricks should be used in the heating chamber, while stones may be used for the rest of the oven. Iron should be used as little as possible because it expands much more with increasing temperature than the other materials of the oven. The door is an exception since this will be hinged and not work against the other materials.

    The fire regulations are from 1924 which are based on a description on bakery ovens made by agricultural engineer Tandberg in 1885.

    Open bakery

    After the speeches we were invited downstairs to have a look at the bakery oven. We were met by Øyvind and Andre from Open bakery, who showed us baking of sourdough and yeast dough bread. The dough was made at a bakery called Samson in advance.

    We also got a demonstration of how to measure the temperature of the oven. Throw some flour into the oven and measure the time it takes to be burnt. If it gets burnt after less than 20 seconds, the oven is too hot. They are only using dry spruce to heat the oven at Bogstad farm. Pine contains too much tar to be used, while oak contains too much tannic acid.

    After heating, but before baking, the ash and the embers had to be removed. This was done by raking followed by brushing. Judging by the taste and the look of the breads, it seemed like the cleaning of the oven was done well.

    The bakers from Åpent bakeri demonstrated breadmaking of the yeast dough by forming big “doughnuts”, which they put in baskets specially made for keeping the shape intact. The sourdough was originally in a big trough before they poured it onto a table. Then, they cut it into small pieces, forming buns and putting them in other types of baskets. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to see the breads being put in the oven and being taken out again after baking.

    After having eaten a delicious lunch consisting of, among other things, the newly baked breads, the seminar continued. Then, we were informed that the state doesn’t support restoration of old bakery ovens nor support education of masons who can restore them.