Tag: farmhouse dairy

  • Farmhouse dairy Putnoky-Csicsó Sajtok

    A man stirring a container filled with fresh milk

    Owner: Putnoky-Csicsó Barna
    Place: Nyújtód/Lunga

    We went to a farmhouse dairy in the village of Nyújtód/Lunga. From the outside, it looked like we had come to a bungalow with a second house, but once we entered the second one, we could see that we had entered a small dairy. It had a rather large stainless-steel tank and another one in copper where Mr. Putnoky-Csicsó Barna was stirring freshly milked cow’s milk.

    They have 15 Tyrolean grey cows next to their house.

    They make dairy products like
    cheese with cumin
    cheese with mushrooms
    mozzarella with cow’s milk
    ricotta cheese
    smoked cheese
    yogurt
    cheese rolls called sajttekercs. A recipe in Hungarian can be found here.
    cheese with blackcurrant homemade wine

    The last one was not made this year because the summer was too dry.

    To make mozzarella cheese, they lay cheese in lukewarm water, knead it, take out pieces and roll them into spheres. Next, they must stay in salt water for 2 weeks.

    Pieces of mozzarella

    He let us taste the mozzarella cheese, which was very good. An article about how mozzarella is made at an Italian farm is described here.

    During our visit, he was working hard to make cheese because he would sell it at a market on Saturday.
    He told my guide that cheese should be served at room temperature and not like I think many people do: eat it straight from the fridge.

    There was a storeroom in the basement and an adjacent room.

    The cheeses are stored in containers filled with brine, staying there for 3-4 hours per kg. Thus, a heavy cheese must stay longer in brine than a light one.

    Next, the cheeses are stored in a cool room on wooden shelves, while turning them upside down daily to expel whey and brushing them with salt water to prevent mould for 2 weeks. Thereafter, the same procedure is repeated every second day for 3 months.

    Barna had a tool which he can use to extract a sample of a maturing cheese, smell and taste the sample and then reseal the cheese. He’s also knocking on the cheese, listening to the resulting sound. Interestingly, bakers at a bakery in Sardinia  are knocking on their sourdough breads to listen if they have the right consistency.

    Separating whey and curd

    Occasionally, Barna put a perforated bowl into the milk in the copper container, next he used another bowl to scoop up whey, which had been filtered by the sieve. Finally, he emptied the bowl in a stainless-steel container. Later, he would reheat the whey to make ricotta cheese. That is, the whey is heated twice, and the remaining curd is extracted and used to make the ricotta.

    He also filled a glass with whey, and he gave each of us a small cup of it. He emptied the glass, and he told my guide that it was very healthy, and it contains lots of proteins.

    He occasionally stirred the milk in the copper container with a harp and gradually small aggregates, called curd, started appearing on the surface. To separate curd and whey, he transferred the whey to another tank.

    He holds free courses for those who want to learn about cheesemaking.

    He showed us a round shape on which he put a porous cloth. When the curd was ready, he would put it on the cloth which would filter out the whey. In addition, it would give the surface of the cheese an uneven surface.

    In 2012, he went to a 6-month course with Hungarian cheesemakers. After 5-6 years of making cheese, he went to Switzerland where he met a group of Swiss cheesemakers, one of whom had been doing it for 40 years. They taught him lots of details he didn’t know about.

    He holds events about cheese for kindergartens and schools and he lets kids come to the dairy where they can make strange shapes of the cheese.

    He said you can leave whey for 2-3 months; it will turn sour and it’s good for the veins.

  • Basazabal farm and farmhouse dairy

    Bring a flock of sheep to a pasture

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    We arrived at the farm of the Muñoa family before sunrise. Inside a big building, we could see lots of sheep being milked by milking machines operated by Javier Muñoa and his brother-in-law. His former assistant has recently retired and he’s looking for a replacement, but he hasn’t found a suitable person yet.

    Each time a group of sheep had been milked, they were let out through an exit, while another one was allowed to enter through an entrance. All in all, 270 sheep of the Latxa race were milked this morning. Latxa sheep are considered to be native to the Basque region, but genetic analyses have traced them to present-day Israel from where they started migrating about 7000 years ago. They are very well adapted to the mild and wet climate of the north of the Basque Country.

    Having finished milking, we followed Javier to the farmhouse dairy, where the milk from the sheep already had been pumped into an open vessel, which obviously was part of a cheesemaking machine. Small dairies light a gas fire below the vessel containing milk in order to heat it, but Javier just turned on a switch to heat the milk to 38°C. Then, he prepared rennet, a substance which is used to start curdling, by mixing solid and liquid parts by means of a kitchen mixer, then pouring it into the milk. Afterwards, he started stirring the milk by inserting a couple of harps, a metal structure with parallel metal wires, into a part of the machine and turning on another switch. After some time, he stopped the stirring, letting the milk slowly turn into curd.

    While the milk was turning into curd, Javier went to another barn where he filled feed in a trough, then he let young sheep about 6 months old enter in order to eat. Having eaten, they were led back to the other barn. Then, he released a large flock of sheep, walking in front of them on the road down to a communal meadow where they were allowed to graze freely. Next, he released another group of sheep on a pasture on his own property.

    We returned to the farmhouse dairy where the milk had curdled and it was time to separate liquid and solid parts, that is whey  and cheese. First, Javier restarted the machine, letting the harp stir the curd. Having stirred the solid stuff into small clumps, he exchanged the harp with another metal tool, then letting the machine continue stirring until the mixture looked homogeneous. Next, he put a perforated plate into the liquid on one side of the vessel, likewise on the other one. While one of them was stationary, he started pressing the other one against the first one such that the whey was allowed to exit through the holes in the plates, leaving even more cheese mass inside. After having compressed it as much as possible, Javier used a stencil to divide the cheese mass into cubes whose side was 10-15 cm. Having already put porous cloths into a lot of plastic cylinders, he lifted the cheese cubes and put them one by one in the cylinders. Next, he put small labels on the top of each cheese in order to ensure traceability. Finally, he put lids on all of them and put them in a rack were they were subjected to continuous pressure in order to press out as much whey as possible.

    Having finished the cheesemaking, Javier showed us a brochure from the Guild of Fine Food  where one his cheeses had been deemed to be among the 50 best products worldwide in 2015. In addition, it also got an award of three stars, where one star means delicious, two stars mean outstanding and three stars mean exquisite. This is even more impressive when there were more than 10,000 products which were entered into the competition.

    The cheeses made at this farm from part of Idiazabal cheese  and it is a Denomination of Origin, meaning it has to be produced in the Basque region from the milk of Latxa or Carranzana sheep and the cheese has to be prepared in certain ways. There are about 112 cheese producers, who make Idiazabal cheese and they are located in the territories of Araba, Gipuzkoa, Navarre and Biscay.

    Although Idiazabal cheese has existed for many years, it was common for sheep farmers to send sheep’s milk to dairies where it was turned into cheese. About 30 years ago, there was a marked change when a priest called P Mitxel Lekuona, persuaded farmers to make cheese themselves because the price of milk was steadily decreasing, giving the farmers very little profit. He encouraged them to turn all the milk they produced into cheese and to improve their way of making cheese. He ran courses in cheesemaking, bought various tools and organised excursions to other cheese producers, e.g. in France.

    Regarding the sheep, the ewes are made pregnant by means of artificial insemination, but if it doesn’t work, Javier let the ewes stay with rams for some time. Lambs are born at the end of November and some of them are slaughtered at Christmas when the farmers get the highest price for them. When the lambs are weaned, milking of the sheep is started. Ewes, which aren’t able to get pregnant are sold to Greece and Lebanon.

    Although many sheep farmers bring their sheep to the highlands in summer and to the lowlands in winter, Javier Muñoa lets them stay at or near his far all year.

  • Agrotourism Ondarre

    Grazing sheep

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    While we were visiting small-scale producers in the area of Idiazabal, we stayed two nights at the Agrotourism Ondarre on the outskirts of the town of Segura.

    Both the grandfather and the father of Eneko Goiburu, the present owner of the farm and inn, had worked as shepherds all year, spending summers in primitive mountain huts without any facilities apart from running water. Nowadays, Eneko carries on the farm and makes cheeses as they did, but he also runs an inn, which is naturally most busy in summer, in the farmhouse. As a memory of his ancestors, there is a small ethnographic museum next to the inn where we could have a look at various tools for farming, making cheese, handling wool and turning it into clothes, etc

    In order to attend to the inn properly, the sheep graze on pastures near the farm, instead of staying in the mountains in summer as was done by by his ancestors. Besides, a group of four rams were grazing on a separate pasture next to the farmhouse.

    The sheep are milked daily and sheep’s cheese is still being made manually as it has been for ages. The finished cheeses are Denomination of Origin-certified Idiazabal cheese.

    This summer, Eneko and his parents, Félix and Maria Carmen, have been invited to the 2016 Smithsonian Folklife Festival in Washington DC, USA, where they will demonstrate how to make and smoke cheese, besides carding wool, spinning, knitting, and more.

    In order to show us how cheeses are smoked, a way of flavouring and preserving cheese, Eneko put some firewood in a big metal bucket and lit a fire. Then, he put nettles on top to produce as much smoke as possible, Next, he put the bucket in a chamber and locked the door. Above the chamber, there was a small room with shelves where the smoke would enter. Having put in some cheeses in advance, he closed the door to the cheeses and let them stay inside for a few hours. Before smoking, the cheeses are whitish, while they have a warm yellow hue afterwards.

    How to make cheese

  • The Cuscusa farm

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    The farm of Michele Cuscusa is situated on a hill near the village of Gonnostramatza.  His ancestors were mostly shepherds and peasants raising sheep and goats. His father was a shepherd doing transhumance, that is moving mainly sheep to the mountains in summer and to the lowlands in winter, and arrived at Campidano for the first time on horseback. In 1979 he and his family decided to move to Gonnostramatza and buy a property of 109 hectares and increasing it gradually. Michele and his brothers were entrusted with looking after flocks of sheep at a young age, making them good sheep farmers.

    Now the Cuscusa farm extends to 168 hectares and renting 70 hectares of fertile terrain particularly suited to raising sheep and it is well provided with whatever is required for running a farm like shelters for the animals, a milking room, a room for sheep-shearing and a farmhouse dairy for producing organic cheese from raw milk.

    Michele Cuscusa and his 3 brothers are cultivating fodder, maize and alfalfa or lucerne organically with the objective of improving the selection of the sheep at the farm with the inherent advantage of better cheese and in the course of several years due to only letting sheep with good qualities breed with high quality rams, the sheep of this farm all have pedigrees.

    The Cuscusa farm is continually expanding and it is really a multifunctional enterprise: in addition to raising sheep and goats, they are also raising pigs and horses with which they arrange riding trips and they have a large restaurant where they serve their guests courses from the farm.

    Michele is a man with lots of passion for agriculture and he told us how, during the boom in the 60s and 70s, peasants were advised to leave their farms in order to work in factories. Instead, he remained a farmer and he is convinced that industrialisation in Sardinia has led to very little, whereas agriculture is still wide-spread in the whole island.

    Being a very active man, Michele told us about an interesting experience of his by letting two young Japanese men, Yiuchiro e Yoichi, work as apprentices at the farmhouse dairy. Obviously, they wanted to learn how to make cheese in a small dairy from a master cheese-maker.

    What Michele has found very interesting is the interaction between two different worlds, on the one hand the Japanese, most of  who know very little about cheese and how it is made, on the other hand the Sardinians who have been farmers and shepherds for ages.

    The Cuscusa farm has a close bond with an Italian-Japanese organisation, which is called The vegetable garden of dreams or l’Orto dei sogni, which receives groups from Japan. Moreover, Michele participated actively in a yearly festival for good food at Siddi, called Appetitosamente.

    Michele has also participated as speech holder at Siddi Wine Festival regarding how to make cheese. He has organised, among other things, a seminar on the low price of milk and he has held a speech at a Slow Food event in Oristano regarding cheese-making.

    He is also the chairman of a major wine producer: Cantina di Mogoro.

    Our impression of the Cuscusa farm was that it looked well integrated in the area, they are always trying to diversify their production with particular attention to making high quality products, but always connected to the traditional, pastoral way of Sardinia.

    We thank Michele for his hospitality and for setting aside time for us.

  • The Catean farm

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    The Catean family lives in the lowlands in the village of Rotbav about 20 km north of Brasov. There, they have a dairy where they produce cheese twice daily, while their horses live in a stable a few kilometres northwards, and their sheep stay on meadows a short drive from the farm. Early in the morning we could watch cheese being made more or less manually, first by pouring milk from a milk can through a filter into a large container, then heating the milk to about 40°C and adding rennet to separate the cheese mass from the liquid. After waiting about half an hour, it was time for separation where the cheese mass was lifted by hand into a wide, open container with an opening in one end and being oblique such that the liquid could flow out and being collected in another container. Putting the remaining cheese mass in a porous cloth, and compressing it in various ways, even more liquid was ejected. Finally, the dairy workers tied the cloth tightly around the cheese mass and put wooden boards and weights on the top in order to get rid of even more liquid.

    The three sons of the Catean family, Silviu, George and Ionut, have taken university degrees, but all of them prefer to stay at their parents’ farm. One of them told my guide that it is in their blood to be farmers, and they can’t help it. However, they are running a profitable farm and their products are renowned for their excellent quality.

    All the brothers are members of Slow Food Brasov, and they have been actively participating in a project called Transhumance 2013 where 6 shepherds and a flock of sheep too young to produce milk walked along the whole of the Carpathians from Romania to Poland, via Ukraine, the Czech republic, Slovakia and Poland, a distance of about 1400 km. Actually, transhumance is as old as the hills, often being practised by farmers living in the lowlands bringing their livestock to the highlands in spring and back again in autumn. Besides, nomads have gone wherever there was food for their animals for millennia. However, due to border controls, passports, etc. this has more or less stopped, and it is to be hoped that their project will be an annual event.

    After having paid a visit to their beautiful horses residing indoors due to the strong heat, we went by horse and cart to their sheepfold. Walking on a gravel road, the horse brought us to a sheepfold, while her foal was walking next to her. There, they could both eat as much as they wanted, while we were visiting the sheepfold. It seems like Romanian sheepfolds are organised in more or less the same way, with an outer fence and an inner one located next to a shed where the shepherds are milking the sheep. The sheep enter through two openings in the shed, before getting milked by one of four shepherds. It was unbearably hot with no shade, but the sheep were waiting patiently, and the horse was sweating heavily. How man and animals survive, I have no idea, but probably the horses and the sheep best suited to the heat have been selected for breeding since ancient times. Going back again in a horse-drawn cart, we passed a nest of storks, 3 chickens and one adult. How they survive the heat is another mystery.

  • Finnvollen mountain farm

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    Slow Food Telemark arranged a tour to Finnvollen, a mountain farm west of Tuddal with a view to the mountain Gaustatoppen on Saturday 13 August. After most of the participants had arrived around noon, we sat down around a long table where the farmer Bent Nilsen started talking about daily life at their mountain farm in addition to bring us foods and drinks made by him and his family..

    After having brought us flat bread, butter, prim (a dairy product made by boiling whey) and knaost (a cheese made at the farm) besides coffee and tea, we got an introduction to the Nilsen family’s stay at Finnvollen. They have their own farm in Sande, but due to house building they “lost” half of their property. Formerly, they let their domestic animals graze wherever they wanted and they needed only to store winter fodder at the farm, but with only half their property intact, they needed to provide fodder for them all year.Then, they had the idea of buying a mountain farm and after some time they bought Finnvollen, a farm which had been abandoned in 1991. When they arrived in summer 2007, the property was partly overgrown and the buildings were in bad repair. Conditions were in other words primitive when they arrived, but now they have a building where the cows can be milked together with a cheesemaking room and a wood-fired hot water tank. The water is extracted from a well located 80 metres below ground and is suitable for cheesemaking. Electrical power for running the water pump and lightbulbs is generated by a diesel-powered generator. Since it isn’t possible to make cheese in low temperatures, they are using a heat exchanger being heated by propane gas in order to keep the cheesemaking going on cold days.  Even under these primitive conditions, they are able to make dairy products of prime quality.

    Our common lunch in the outdoors was a delicious experience whee we also got to taste their home-made ham from their own pigs together with salami. The butter, which was more yellow than “ordinary” butter, was so tasteful that we, strictly speaking, didn’t need to cover the flat bread with anything else. We were told that the strong sunlight at high altitudes with long days leads to that the photosynthesis is very active leading again to a high production of beta-carotene, a strongly coloured red-orange pigment abundant in plants and fruits. The high level of beta-carotene gives a more yellow milk and softer butter with a shorter shelf life, the latter meaning that the dairy products from Finnvollen can only be bought from the producer at Finnvollen and some outdoor markets.

    There are about 10 cows at the farm and most of them are made up of rather rare races like Nordland and Trønder cows, rather hardy animals who only go home in order to be milked. The calves have a pyramid-shaped wooden building in which they can stay in case of bad weather. The 4 pigs live partly in a horse truck and partly within an enclosure where they can do as they please and really have a good time in the mud. They also have two workhorses, a pony and a golden retriever.

    The pigs are fed whey, that is the liquid which remains after about 10% of the milk has been turned to cheese. Bent Nilsen lets the pigs reach a weight of 140 kilogrammes before he slaughters them at their farm in Sande, meaning that the pigs are relaxed until the end and that the meat is of supreme quality. I’m hardly exaggerating when I say that man and animals live in harmony at this farm.

    The cheese called knaost is “related” to another cheese called pultost and the makings of both types of cheese naturallly resemble each other.In both cases, cow’s milk is separated into cream and skimmed milk. The latter is heated to 72°C in order to finish off some of the naturally occurring bacteria in the milk before lowering the temperature to 30°C. Then, it is soured down to a pH value of 4.3 by adding a freeze-dried culture. The pH value is also a characteristic of the safety of the milk, meaning that it may have been infected by dangerous bacteria and unsuitable for cheesemaking if the pH is too high. However, as long as the pH value is okay, the milk is heated to a little above 40°C and constantly stirred. After some time, it will be possible to separate cheese mass while the remaining liquid is called whey. The cheese mass is put in a container where the whey is allowed to drip away. The cheese mass will start fermenting all by itself and in order to prevent the temperature from exceeding 42°C at which the fermentation ceases, the cheese maker has to turn around the cheese mass twice daily. Finally, the cheese mass is heated such that the cheese “grains” melt and and a homogeneous mass results. After having cooled the cheese down to room temperature, the cheese is ready to be served.

    Bent Nilsen told us that the process described above was far from easy and the first three summers were spent with trial and error, letting the dairy products be fed to the pigs. Besides, he studied traditional food making at a college in Rauland in Telemark in order to get professional help and to do experiments to find a reliable production process.

    After having been shown around and got delicious food, it was time to go home. However, all the participants bought a fair share of dairy products before leaving, in fact it was the least we could do after such a pleasant and interesting stay.

    My respect for the women who worked all summer in mountain farms has definitely not decreased after this visit. They had to make do without running water, electrical power and hardly any possibility for cooling their products. In those days, people and animals wandered from the valleys to the mountains, while the Nilsen family freight their animals by car at summer solstice up to the mountain farm and back again in the middle of September.

  • Vesterhaugen farmhouse dairy

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    We visited Scotswoman Helen Davey, a producer of a typical, Norwegian cheese called pultost, butter, cream and sour cream. After having left Høgda farmhouse dairy, we were excited about what to find at Vesterhaugen farmhouse dairy.

    Vesterhaugen farmhouse dairy is located west of the river Glomma in Våler commune. Following her directions – follow road 210, turn towards Solør-Odalsveien at the crossroads at Eid, follow the road called Solør-Odalsveien past an open toll-gate where you don’t need to pay anything. After having passed the toll-gate, turn right, Vesterhaugen is the second house on the left with a sign at the entrance.

    We were met by Helen who let us enter her small dairy consisting of one rooom only and located inside her kitchen. After having entered her dairy, we could watch her doing the finishing touches on butter, besides working with her pultost, which is a presidium.

    Helen is raising 5 cows from the race called Trønder cow. They are mainly white with mostly black spots on the sides, and they are smaller than the main cow in Norway called Norwegian Red Cow. Their milk contains more proteins than the milk from the Norwegian Red Cow, making it suitable for cheesemaking and dairy products in general.

  • Høgda farmhouse dairy

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    Høgda farmhouse dairy is located high up on the Høsbjør hill above a town called Brumunddal east of Norway’s largest lake, called Mjøsa. Ascending a steep gravel road in first gear, it felt like we were leaving the busy town life for the quiet life in the countryside.

    We were met by farmer and cheesemaker Tore Skarpnord who invited us inside to have some cups of coffee and a chat. Yes, it’s steep, Tore says, about going from the nearest town to where he lives. I have to think twice before drinking up the last glass at the local pub at night.

    Tore told us about life as a farmer and that his children probably wouldn’t end up as farmers like himself. He’s proud of his Telemark cows which he has been raising for the last 20 years. The Telemark cow race is the oldest cow race in Norway, having been defined as a separate race in 1856. While his cows stay inside in winter and outside in summer, his Shetland ponies are outside almost all year and are roaming free in summer.

    Since a farmer’s income is somewhat variable and uncertain presently, he thinks that a more predictable and stable income is necessary in order to insure that young people will become farmers.

    Tore, who is one of the producers of the pultost presidium, learnt how to make this soft, sharp cheese from an old hand called Arve Brattengen, in 1972. After his demise he inherited some old, wooden troughs, in which he is letting the cheese mature.

    The dairy products from Høgda farmhouse dairy, that is pultost, sour cream, butter and boiled pultost in order to ease its taste, are sold at the farm and in local shops. Regarding pultost, just by letting it mature long enough, it’s possible to obtain a strong taste or if you’re willing to wait, it will turn into liquid. The last one is meant for those who know how to appreciate a well matured cheese, while the rest of us willingly eat it a long time before this happens.

  • Holen farmhouse dairy

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    The Holen farmhouse dairy is located in the land of the writer and Nobel laureate Bjørnstjerne Bjørnson. You’ll find it by going north from Lillehammer towards Segalstad bru (bru means bridge) where you turn left and follow the road called 255 for about one and a half kilometer. Then, you turn left again and after about 500 metres, you’ll arrive at a beautifully located farm and farmhouse dairy.

    Inger Elisabeth Holen received us in the farm shop, which is located in the same building as the dairy. The milk for the dairy is taken from the cows at the farm and it is not pasteurised leading to tasty dairy products.

    She started making dairy products after having taken a course with the indefatigable Pascale Baudonnel in 2003, a French-woman who has taught many Norwegian farmers how to make dairy products. For instance, we visited Eiker farmhouse dairy in autumn 2008, whose owners also had done a course with Pascale.

    Holen farmhouse dairy produces among other products, the Norwegian pultost, which is a soft, sharp cheese, which is a presidium. The consistency is grainy and the taste is mild. However, you can obtain a richer flavour by letting the cheese mature just by storing it in a cool place. The cheese is made from skimmed milk which has been mixed with soured sweet milk. A more detailed description on how pultost is made can be found at our first visit to a pultost producer: presidium cheese. All the cheese has to be matured and the worker has to decide when to stop the maturing by judging the colour, flavour and consistency. The maturing is stopped by adding salt, while caraway is added to make the cheese more tasty.

  • The Mura farm and farmhouse dairy

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    We went to the house of Gianpaolo and Barbara Mura in the evening after having ascended a long series of steps in the historic centre of Santu Lussurgiu. Gianpaolo met us at the entrance of their fine house and led us up their neat dairy from whose ceiling were hanging the traditional “Su Casizolu“, that is typical, Sardinian cow’s cheese, produced in the region of Montiferru.

    Gianpaolo e Barbara, being in their twenties, are running a farm having been started more than 200 years ago in accordance with nature’s cycles. They are raising cows of a race called Sardo-Modicana living outside all year in pastures being supplemented with organic fodder from fields between the hills of Montiferru and the valleys approaching Oristano.

    The extension of their property amounts to several hundred hectares, but being divided into three different parts situated in three communes. The herd moves from the highlands to the lowlands in winter and vice versa in summer. The Sardo-Modicana race derive from cross-breeding the Modicana race imported from Sicily in the early 1800s with local races in the Montiferru region and being meant for working. Quite early on, it was discovered that the cheese obtained from the milk of the Sardo-Modicana cows was excellent and getting the name Casizolu. Besides, the meat of the Sardo-Modicana cattle has also been discovered to be of prime quality. Now, veal of the highest quality called “Bue Rosso” or “Red Bull” is obtained from the Sardo-Modicana calves.

    Gianpaolo and Barbara, although producing “Bue Rosso”, are more interested in talking about their rare cheese shaped like a giant pear. In fact, they are proud of their production of cheese firmly anchored to the cycles of the seasons and the reproductive cycles of their animals, but they won’t have their product nominated as a Slow Food presidium because they want to be independent.

    In order to make the “Su Casizolu” cheese, the curd has to be kneaded manually until it becomes smooth and thready, while at the same time keeping it at a temperature of 45°C. At our arrival, Barbara was busy kneading the curd, a work which seemed quite laborious and long-lasting. After she had finished her work, Gianpaolo cut off a part of the curd and started forming a baseball-sized ellipsoid. Then, he started reshaping it such that the lower part is round and large, while the upper part is slender, ending in a fine, wide rosette.

    After having shaped the cheese to his liking, he put it into a container of water filled with salt, rotating it regularly such that the shape remained symmetrical. The cheeses had to stay in the water until the temperature had decreased to 20°C. Then, he would put the cheese in a net and hang it up on a beam located close to the ceiling for drying.

    Before leaving, we were shown the cheese cellar of Barbara and Gianpaolo, that is a a room without windows with a temperature ideally suited to let the cheeses justly dried, mature. In fact, the ceiling was more or less covered with maturing cheeses.

  • The Busi farm

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    The only means of sustenance of these poor families was raising pigs on their assigned properties, besides doing manual work in the countryside. Maria, who came from a village in the vicinity of Fertilia, married one of the sons of the Busi family in the 1960s. Uniting the entrepreneurial skills of her husband with her Sardinian traditional upbringing and passing these characteristics onto 4 sons, who are managing this big and modern farm, have reason to feel satisfied with the results of her husband’s and her own efforts.

    Now, there are about 60 Frissona cows and one Charolais bull called Cicero at the farm. The cows are milked twice daily by means of a machine. During our visit, the cows were waiting in a line in order to be milked. When the farmer Mauro was ready, about 8 cows were allowed to enter at the same time. The milking was finished after a few minutes, then a new group of cows could enter.

    The cow’s milk has a temperature of 39°C, but after having been pumped through various tubes into a big tank, the temperature is lowered about 10°C. After having milked all the cows, Tiziana, Mauro’s wife, started making a cheese called semicotto, literally half-cooked, by heating the milk up to 45°C and stirring it at the same time obtaining a thick substance called curd. After having added a small amount of rennet, in order to separate the fat and liquid parts of the curd, and after having stirred the curd until it seemed homogeneous, Tiziana extracted the fat parts from the curd and put them in small, cylindrical containers. Since they were porous, by compressing the fat parts, Tiziana was able to get rid of a large amount of the liquid parts, that is the whey. Tiiziana is also producing another type of cheese, which is called peretta, since it is pear-shaped.

    The Busi family was among the first ones to sell raw milk in Sardinia, and the initiative has been met with much enthusiasm among the Sardinians. Naturally, the major part of the milk is treated in dairies before being sold in shops.

    The calves are separated from their mothers shortly after being born. After the weaning, the male calves are kept in separate enclosures for some time before being slaughtered.

    They are also raising pigs and wild boars at the farm. These animals live inside a large enclosure in which they can move freely. The meat is mostly for their own consumption besides a few customers.

  • The Turra farm

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    After having been driving in the countryside east of Osilo for some kilometres, we arrived at the Turra farm situated at the top of a small hill. From there, we were able to see rolling hills and valleys besides a set of windmills in the horizon. Briefly, it’s a very beautiful and sparsely populated area.

    The Turra farm is managed by Giovanni Turra, his son Gavinuccio and his wife Rina, and has been family-driven for many generations.

    The Turra farm, a Slow Food presidium, is producing sheep’s cheese according to ancient traditions. Having lots of hills and valleys at their disposal, the 350 Sarda sheep at the farm can roam freely across a large area, making superb mutton.

    Since it was time for milking shortly after we had arrived, we could watch a group of sheep together with a flock of lambs coming from a nearby meadow and entering the house where the milking should take place. Gavinuccio first put feed in a long trough, then the sheep were allowed to enter a long row of vertical bars, putting their heads between the vertical bars and eating from the trough. After having locked the heads of all the sheep by closing the bars around the head of each sheep, we could watch Gavinuccio doing the milking manually. Thereafter, we were invited into the dairy, where Giovanni and Rina had finished making their famous sheep’s cheese and ricotta just before we arrived.

    While Gavinuccio was milking the sheep, we were shown around the dairy by Rina and her father-in-law Giovanni. The dairy has about 20 presses in addition to appropriate weights which are used to compress the cheeses and the ricotta mustia (a soft, delicate, white and compact cheese) in order to press out the whey, that is the liquid part of the milk. After having been compressed for some hours, the sheep’s cheeses are transferred to containers filled with water and salt. The cheeses stay floating in this mixture for some days. At the same time, as much salt is added that it isn’t dissolved in the water. Besides, a layer of salt is added on top of each cheese because the salt aids in getting rid of the whey. After the salting, the cheeses are stored in a cellar with a stable temperature around 15°C in order to mature.

    Rina and her father-in-law also produce ricotta dolce and ricotta mustia, the latter being smoked in a small room by means of burning aromatic branches of Mediterranean maquis (mastic, wild olive, juniper, etc.). Before the smoking is carried out, the elliptical discs of ricotta, previously salted and compressed, are placed on a bed of reeds, collected from groves of reeds which grow abundantly along river banks nearby.

    Of course, we couldn’t leave the farm without having accepted a coffee gently offered by Rina.

  • The Porcu shepherds

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    We met Salvatore Porcu following his sheep across the panoramic road between Alghero and Bosa in the region of Sedduri. Following the northeastern coast of Sardinia, the views from the road were really spectacular.

    Here, between the road and the sea, is located a shed owned by the Porcu brothers, Salvatore and Giovanniantonio, who also own the area below and above the shed stretching all the way to the mountains high above us. The landscape consisted of valleys covered with meadows and Mediterranean maquis situated on steep mountain sides.

    After having asked Salvatore if I could photograph the milking of the sheep, he accepted my not so good Italian immediately, just pointing at the shed and saying that we could drive down there. After having received such a friendly welcome, we of course did as we were told. After having first passed some free-ranging pigs, we entered the long and narrow shed, where we could watch the sheep entering the shed and that most of them found a space to reside without aid. Of course, some sheep needed guidance, but after having positioned everyone in their place, one of the shepherds locked the heads of all the sheep simultaneously by means of some mechanical device. Then, Giovanniantonio who has studided veterinary sciences and has a special interest in the welfare of their animals, poured feed for the sheep into a trough such that all the sheep had something to eat. Since all the sheep had their heads locked fast and they were busy eating, Salvatore and Giovanniantonio could, with the aid of a friend, milk about 150 sheep in just a few minutes. After having made the sheep exit one end of the shed, the second group of sheep were waiting in the other end, ready to be milked.

    All the sheep are milked twice daily, morning and evening, and after having finished the milking in the morning, all the milk is transported to a tiny dairy located in the house of the Porcu family where the milk is turned into cheese and ricotta. Before adding rennet, that is a compound consisting of enzymes having been mainly extracted from calves’ stomachs, the milk is heated to about 36°C before letting it rest for about 25-30 minutes. If you want to turn the milk mass into a cheese called fiore sardo (Sardinian flower), you should start working the curd immediately, that is putting it into small cylindrical containers. I f you, instead, want to make a cheese called semicotto, the temperature of the curd has to be raised to 42°C. Then, the curd is again lifted into small, cylindrical containers. In both cases, Salvatore pressed the curd in the containers manually, in order to let the whey exit, since a cheese should contain the fat parts and not the liquid parts of the milk. Then, he placed the small containers on an incline such that the whey would be transported back to the big container, from which the cheese mass had been taken, by means of gravity. In the meantime, Salvatore heated the remaining milk, containing mostly liquid, up to 90°C when small lumps of fat started surfacing. This liquid is used as a supplement to the mainly vegetarian food their pigs are usually eating.

    Salvatore learnt how to produce cheese from his father and years of practice has turned him into one of the best producers of semicotto in his region. A main contribution to the high quality of the cheese they are producing, is the feed their sheep are eating. Besides eating herbs growing in the wild, they are also fed organic cereals. Since they are able to roam freely between the sea and high into the mountains, they are also able to eat a diverse range of plants, which will of course improve the quality of the milk they are producing.

    Place of milking the sheep: the Sedduri region

  • Colle Ostrense farm and dairy

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    This family run farm was started in 1972 when the Pittalis family came from Sardinia and bought 3 farms from old farmers when most people were moving from the countryside to the cities. We were shown around the farm by Mrs. Pittalis who let us enter a big building with lots of sheep inside. Having scaled one of the enclosures inside the building, she came back holding a lamb in her arms. Since the sheep were inside enclosures and obviously not used to visitors, they were constantly moving around during our visit. After having been to the large building, we were allowed to enter another one where just a few sheep and chickens seemed to live a really tranquil life. Finally, we were shown their goats which lived outside in their own enclosure, while a small dog followed us wherever we went. We also had a look at their farmhouse dairy and their farm shop where we could buy delicious dairy products.

    The animals
    The farm has about 500 sheep from a race called Sarda known for its high milk production and the excellent quality of the lamb’s meat. Besides, they have about 30 goats, which they keep for the milk.

    The sheep stayed inside during our stay, but usually they are free to enter and exit according to their wishes. However, they are kept inside in bad weather.

    The harvests
    The farm is growing the following types of forage for the animals:

    • oats
    • maize
    • alfalfa
    • wheat

    The cultivated area extends to 100 hectares are they are also renting 10 hectares.

    The dairy
    They are producing sheep’s and goat’s cheese together with cow’s cheese with milk they are buying from nearby farms.

    There are lots and lots of regulations for dairies and twice monthly inspectors are coming to check that the regulations are followed.

    Children from local schools are allowed to come in order to watch cheesemaking and milking of the animals. If I heard correctly, the last one made a great impression on the children and it seems like they are happy letting someone else do it.

    In addition to goat’s and the sheep’s cheese, they are also producing

    • ricotta cheese
    • mozzarella cheese
    • yogurt
    • fresh dairy products

    Other products include

    • fresh meat
    • flour
    • a flat bread from Sardinia called carasau

    Tasting of cold cuts, cheeses and bread are provided for minimum 2 persons at a time. Regarding tasting, I can attest to the quality of their products having been treated to a delicious meal of cold cuts and cheeses together with Sardinian flat bread.

    There is a facebook page for those who want to buy products from this farm.

  • Vito Celeste farm and farmhouse dairy

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    After having finished the wine-tasting at the regional wine bar in Jesi, we drove in-land to the Vito Celeste farm. Being a bit off the beaten track, my guide Raffaela had to ask a shepherd for directions. Reaching the farm after dusk, we met the owner Arturo Valentino working outside on some kind of machine.

    The farm
    The Vito Celeste farm has been family-run for about 20 years, and Arturo Valentino is running the farm which was started by his grandfather. They also have an agri-tourism which was founded in 2004.

    Arturo willingly showed us the shed where their animals were living followed by, maybe up to 8 big, white dogs.

    The Jersey cows
    The cows come from Jersey in the English channel. The milk of the Jersey cows contain lots of fats and proteins and it resembles sheep’s milk. In general, 100 kilogrammes of milk gives about 20 kilogrammes of cheese and a Jersey cow gives about 13-14 litres of milk daily.

    The average age of the cows amounts to 8 and a half years. Insemination takes place when they are about 2 years and it’s completely natural by means of one of the farm’s 3 bulls. The animals stay in the sheds more or less all the time. The meat of the calves is of exceptional quality and it is served to the guests of the agri-tourism.

    The sheep
    The sheep are of the race Comisana, originating from Sicily, characterised by a red-brown muzzle and ewes producing about 2 litres of milk per day.

    The race is mainly spread around Sicily and Calabria, but it’s also present in some regions of the centre and in northern Italy due to its great adaptability to diverse environments,

    The wool is cut annually by master shearers coming all the way from Australia.

    The cheeses
    The farm is producing yogurt, soft cheese and mozzarella cheese.

    The sheep’s cheese contain other types of proteins than the milk of the Jersey cows.

    Selling of their products
    The farm is selling their products to groups of supportive purchasing, delivering directly to their representatives. Lots of customers go to the farm in order to buy their products, which aren’t sold at any other shops.

    The harvests
    The farm is growing the following types of forage for the animals:

    • barley
    • hay
    • alfalfa
    • field bean (vicia faba), a type of legume able to prevent erosion because they can over-winter and fix nitrogen in the soil
    • maize
    • soya bean

    Wine tasting

    After having seen their animals, we were invited inside for tasting their cheeses and having a glass of wine. Since Arturo was using a dialect which was more or less incomprehensible to me, I had to ask Raffaela for a translation on the way back home.

  • Trionfi Honorati farm and Piandelmedico dairy

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    The farm was started in 1939 by the marquis Antonio Trionfi Honorati who wanted to found a farmhouse dairy using milk from 30 Friesian cows. The farm has been owned by the Trionfi Honorati family ever since, and it is now being managed by the siblings Giulia and Antonio. Giulia is in charge of the farmhouse dairy and the well-stocked farm shop residing in the same building, while Antonio looks after the animals, whose number has grown to more than 300, consisting of both Friesian cows and buffaloes.

    The animals
    The farm has 190 cows, Dutch Friesian and 150 buffaloes. They are born in a special room and the birth may last up to a day for the cows, while it is very quick affair for the buffaloes.

    The calves are staying in separate rooms for 3 months until they are weaned off cow’s milk. They receive milk from their mothers for the first four days because it’s important that the first milk they are drinking are from their mothers in order to reinforce their immune system. Thereafter, they are fed powder milk.

    The health of the calves has to be controlled regularly. The young cows have to do 4 shifts from room to room, while the young buffaloes have to do only 3 shifts because they are less in need of controlling their health. The calves of the buffaloes are able to stand upright after only 20 minutes after birth because they are still preserving their wild characteristics.

    The first insemination takes place when the cows are about 15-17 months depending on the development of the animal. The cows are always artificially inseminated, while this happens very seldom with the buffaloes. Instead, the farm’s bull called Ciccio is doing this job.

    The buffaloes originate from Syria, coming to Italy during the barbaric invasions and found favourable environments in present Puglia and Campania. 70 buffaloes arrived at the farm in April 2004.

    The customers are buying the meat of the calves, especially the male ones. The meat of the buffaloes is exceptional and it contains lots of iron and little cholesterol. Naturally, quality of the meat depends on the fodder.

    Both maize, soy, oats and hay are grown at the farm and the animals are given a mix of these cereals. The farn has a mill where grinding and mixing of the cereals are carried out.

    All the animals live in sheds all year. The owner, Antonio Trionfi, would like to release the animals to a pasture, but, unfortunately, there are people who open the fences surrounding the pasture permitting the animals to escape.

    The milking of the cows is automated and the cows are milked twice daily. The Dutch Friesian cows are producing about 20 litres a day, while the buffaloes are producing about 8 litres. The milk of the buffaloes, containing about 8% fat, is not bottled.

    Photographing the animals was interesting: the Friesian cows seemingly didn’t care about being photographed, while the buffaloes cared very much. All of them were very curious and even those who were lying down, ruminating, arose and looked at me curiously.

    The cheeses
    Even though the cheeses are made from the same milk, it’s possible to produce many different types of cheese. The types depend on, among other things:

    • temperature
    • type of coagulated milk
    • salting
    • container in order to shape the cheeses
    • maturation
    • type of cut

    About 30 types of products, many of which are not traditional, are made at the dairy. Some of them are listed below:

    • buffalo ricotta
    • soft cheeses and cacetto
    • buffalo yogurt
    • buffalo vanilla ice cream
    • mozzarella
    • robioline
    • primosale- sheep’s cheese
    • stracchinella
    • caciottina, ‘pasta filata’ style cheese with truffles

    The farm has also a shop where the public can buy products from the dairy and other products mainly from the Marches. The customers are buying everything which is produced and it seems like the demand is greater than the supply.

  • Presidium cheese

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    Small scale producers of a soft, sharp cheese, called pultost in Norwegian, in the counties of Oppland and Hedmark in Norway received a status of presidium product at Slow Food’s cheese fair in Bra, Italy on 19 and 20 September 2009.

    The laborious work of a cheese producing cooperative called Pultost BA and the Slow Food Foundation in Norway have produced results. The soft, sharp cheese (pultost) is the first presidium product from the eastern part of Norway. Before, Norway had 4 presidium products: wild sheep from the western part of Norway, brown cheese from the western county of Sogn, smoked herring from the northwestern county of Møre and stock fish from Kristiansund.

    A presidium is the active part of the Ark of Taste whose objective is to rediscover, register, describe and spread the word about forgotten tastes, drinks and foods. The Slow Food movement has presently about 270 presidium products spread worldwide in the Ark of Taste.

    The Norwegian pultost is a very old type of cheese which formerly was produced in most of the country, that is, it was produced from the southern tip of the country up to the northern town of Mo i Rana. Now, the cheese is mainly produced in the counties of Oppland and Hedmark.

    We went to a mountain farm, called Fjellsetra, in order to see how the cheese is made in the vicinity of Hugulia located in Nordre Land in the county of Oppland. There, we met Bjørg Karin Hagen, who’s the manager of Pultost BA, a cooperative of several small scale producers of pultost in Hedmark and Oppland.

    Buttermilk waffle with pultost and chopped onion
    Bjørg Karin received us at her mountain farm on a bright autumn day in September just a week before she was going to Italy. After having invited us inside her guest hut, she brought us buttermilk waffle, pultost, soft, sweet, brown whey-cheese, chopped onion and coffee.

    For those not in the know, buttermilk is a waste product from churning cream into butter.

    Note! Adding chopped onion to pultost is recommended for beginners

    Thereafter, she let us know about the basics of pultost. Making this type of cheese naturally starts with what the free-ranging cows are eating, which will influence the taste of the final product. Then, after having milked the cows, the milk has to undergo separating, souring, separating whey and cheese mass, drying and maturing.

    The sweet milk is separated into cream and skimmed milk. 11 litres of skimmed milk is required in order to make one kilo of cheese, Bjørg Karin explained. Soured sweet milk (milk which has been warmed up to 20°C at a pH of 4.3 before being cooled down rapidly to 3-5°C) is added to the skimmed milk.

    Separating whey and cheese mass
    The soured, skimmed milk is warmed up to 50°C, then, the milk is whipped, before it is let to coagulate and turn into a cheese mass. After the cheese mass has been extracted, the whey stays behind. In fact, whey is a waste product or co-product from the making of white cheese. However, whey has been used in production of brown cheese and soft, sweet, brown whey-cheese for ages.

    Drying
    The cheese mass is compressed and then hung to dry in some type of porous cotton fabric in order to let out the whey. When it seems dry, firm and it leaves a little humidity when you hold it in your hand, it is ready for the next step. Bjørg Karin gave us a demonstration by holding a clump of cheese mass in her hand and showing us that the cheese mass had left her plastic glove humid. The last characteristic was a sign that everything was as it should be.

    Fermentation and maturing
    How long time does the cheese require to mature, we asked. That depends on many factors, was the answer. The cheese is matured at 25°C and it is checked daily. When the consistency, flavour, colour, and taste is like the producer want them to be, the cheese is ready. Then, salt amounting to about 5% of the total weight is added to the cheese in order to stop the fermentation in addition to adding taste. Caraway and possibly even more salt is added in order to set the taste of the cheese.

    Sales and distribution

    The cheese is sold at stands and fairs and from her own mountain farm at Hugulia. Bjørg Karin is one of a few small scale producers who can say that sales and distribution is no problem since everything which she produces is sold.

    What she’s doing in order to achieve this, we don’t really know. After having stayed a few hours at her mountain farm, we think that her great ability to spread the word about the taste, culture and enjoyment are contributing factors. We think her customers buy her cheese and get a good story and a great experience, as well. That is, the customers get more than they give.

    We gave our thanks for being allowed to visit her, and gave her our best wishes for her trip to the cheese fair in Bra, Italy. There, she has received the final confirmation that the Norwegian pultost has been accepted as a presidium product since it is produced according to old, tried and true methods.

    Producers which participate in Pultost BA are the following :

  • Grøndalen farm

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    Grøndalen farm meaning the Green valley farm is being run in an organic manner, having excellent animal welfare, and producing a fromage blanc called Nýr, which is pronounced neer and can by all means replace both cream and sour cream.

    We went to Grøndalen farm in the Sørum district located about one hour drive northeast of Oslo.  We were expecting some information on running an organic farm and doing small-scale cheese production. Instead, we got much more.

    We met a farmer called Hans Arild Grøndahl with a liking for organic agriculture and animal welfare and a sense of balance in his environment. Hans Arild showed us his barn where the animals could walk around more or less freely whenever they felt like it. The most unique experience of it all was to see with our own eyes that the animals were having such a good time. In addition to being more or less free,  the newborn calves stay with their mothers for 8 weeks.

    On the contrary, it’s common practice to separate mother and child straight after birth which is certainly a traumatic experience for both of them. For the first two days after birth, cow and calf stay together separate from the other animals, while they stay together with the other ones afterwards. Even after the 8 weeks have passed, cow and calf are able to see each other across a fence.

    RELATED REPORT:
    Calf growth rate and welfare in a dairy herd with natural feeding until 6-8 weeks of age.

    This way of treating cows have gained a lot of attention, bringing visitors from lots of countries across the world in order to see what Hans Arild and his family have achieved. A short time after our visit, we were told that a research grant had been approved in order to do research, among other things, on the impact of the treatment of the animals on the milk they are making.

    A report in Norwegian describes experiences with letting cows stay with their calves.

    Fromage blanc production

    Hans Arild rents a small dairy at a vocational school close to his farm in order to produce Nýr, the fromage blanc, which is made from milk to which is added lactic acid bacteria. This leads to a unique, tasty flavour.

    Distribution

    Grøndalen gård could have sold a lot more of its fromage blanc. However, they have many of the same challenges like other small-scale producers are struggling with, like marketing and access to markets. However, we who are co-producers1 have to ask for their products at the supermarkets and spread the word as far and wide as possible.

    1. Members of Slow Food don’t call themselves consumers, but co-producers to the producers who are producing our food.

     

  • Eiker farmhouse dairy

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    Eiker farmhouse dairy makes mild cheeses which are popular in restaurants in the southeastern part of Norway. Three farms near a place called Hokksund located to the west of the town Drammen are cooperating in order to direct the farmhouse dairy.

    Just a few years ago, the three farms mentioned above had great problems going on as usual. Increased expenses and hard work didn’t encourage their children to go on running the farms and closing them down was a real possibility. Fortunately, the wives on the farms went to meet likeminded people in the same situation as them. The idea of starting production of cheese became a wish, an aim and finally a reality. Three farms called Grøsland, Bermingrud and Homlebekk were willing to think anew and now there is a modern factory with good prospects.

    Small scale producers like Eiker farmhouse dairy depend on my and your help in order to get their products marketed and sold. Members of Slow Food aren’t just ordinary consumers, but co-producers. We can become more knowledgeable about the cheeses which are made close to where we live. We can share a tasting of cheese with others, and praise the cheeses in shops and restaurants. All these small influences contribute to keeping a large selection of taste, thus supporting local sense of belonging and food culture.

    We recommend going to Eiker farmhouse dairy, taste their cheeses, visit the cows in the barn and by all means buy a piece of cheese. The cheese from Eiker which you serve to friends afterwards has got an identity. A story about the way from soil to table, locally made food, hard-working cowhands and dairy workers, and happy cows.