Tag: chocolate

  • Krausz chocolate

    Photo of chcocolates
    The chocolates made at this workshop

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    We met Mr Szilard Fazakas outside his family’s house, next we entered the workshop located next to the house. It had been a stable, but he had converted it into a workshop with tiles on the floors and the lower walls.

    Having passed his office, we entered the workshop where there were some idle machines together with a chocolate tempering machine constantly moving liquid chocolate.

    When he should start his company, Mr Fazakas was wondering about a brand name and, at a family reunion, he discovered the name Krausz, the last name of his great grandmother. She had two daughters and the name disappeared. He thought it was perfect and catchy, immediately calling his company Krausz chocolate.

    Instead of moving the liquid chocolate with spatulas, he used an infrared thermometer to measure the temperature of the liquid chocolate in a chocolate tempering machine.

    Poto of temperature measurement
    Measuring the temperature of the chocolate mass

    Spots of cocoa butter are visible on the surface of the chocolate if not done correctly, a phenomenon, which is called crystalisation. An interesting video about crystallisation can be watched here. Mr Fazakas wants the surface to be shiny, smooth and brown, which he obtains by extracting liquid chocolate when it has the correct temperature.

    Picture showing pouring chocolate mass in a mould
    Pouring chocolate mass in a mould

    He used a ladle to put liquid chocolate in a mould with symmetric voids, laid it on a shaker and let it be shaken for some time to get rid of bubbles and make the chocolate even before he scraped away the excess chocolate with a spatula. Next, he poured the contents of the mould into the chocolate bath and put it in a freezer.

    Picture showing the owner letting excess chocolate leave the mould
    Letting excess chocolate leave the mould

    When he took it out again, the voids in the mould were covered with a thin layer of chocolate.

    Next, he put some walnut cream in a plastic bag and shaped it into a piping bag, cutting a small hole in the thin end.

    Picture showing walnut cream in a cone-shaped plastic bag
    Walnut cream in a cone-shaped plastic bag with a hole at the base

    He laid walnut kernels in each void of the mould covered by chocolate.

    Picture showing the owner laying walnuts on top of the chocolate
    Putting walnuts in the voids of the chocolate

    Next, he pressed walnut cream on top of the walnut kernels, filling the voids.

    Picture showing the owner putting walnut cream on each chocolate
    Putting walnut cream on each chocolate

    Finally, he took chocolate with a ladle from the tempering machine and poured it over the complete mould. Thereafter, he scraped away excess chocolate, put it on the shaker and scraped away more chocolate. In the end, he put it in a freezer.

    He also laid blackberries from this village on the surface of a still liquid chocolate lying in a mould.

    Mr Fazaka’s philosophy philosophy is to be a local producer, producing as much as people want to buy, but quality is more important than quantity. In fact, he spent 6 months to create a palette. Fortunately, there is a low health risk when making and selling chocolate.

    Once, he should make 5000 chocolates for the pope’s visit and he had to make a mould, a recipe and packaging. Unfortunately, the representative from the church was bargaining so much that he had to compromise on quality, meaning that the chocolates didn’t measure up to his high requirements.

    Another time, he made a mould for a coffee shop, but it was too complex and chocolate was remaining in the mould when he should extract it.

    His greatest challenge is the packing machine, which he bought new, but it melts the chocolate and he can’t use it. Anyway, he has a Hungarian packing machine, which is 80 years old and it works well.

    He bought the shaking machine first, but it can also be used as a tempering machine. He’s planning to reuse it together with the old packing machine. He wants to make chocolate with dried plum in this machine where the chocolate will be carried on a conveyor belt and be cooled down by means of air blowing over them.

    He also needs to follow up printing companies tightly such that they make labels according to his wishes.

    He’s selling his products under another brand name in supermarkets and it gives him more profit. He also sells his products in flower shops and wine cellars under his own brand name. He prefers to have as many sellers and retailers as possible because he only wants to be an entrepreneur, experimenting, designing and producing chocolate. In fact, he wants to sell both chocolate, ice cream and cheese.

    Mr Fazakas started making and selling ice cream in 2010 and stopped in 2018.

    He buys cocoa from Italy.

    He has a golden rule: never rinse the moulds with water. Instead, he melted chocolate in a mould with hot air, then removed the remains with a cloth.

    He studied at a university in Cluj and he learnt chocolate-making there, but he prefers this quiet place to Cluj. It’s a good place to grow up for his children and his family can get what they want from Mircurea Ciuc.

    He got an EU grant for startup companies and he gets help from his parents.

    Before VAT was 20% for all products, but now its 9% for food such that he can earn more.

  • Berri chocolate

    Forcing molten chocolate enter a bowl by means of a spatula

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    Sandor Szilveszter is a young chocolate maker. He likes chocolate and his parents gave him chocolate. He worked in a multicultural chocolate factory in the UK and he saved money in order to go to a workshop for chocolate-making. While being there, he got a passion for it from the instructor. He can call the chocolate factory in the UK for advice.

    He was in Hungary and France, visiting chocolate factories and some of the people working there gave him advice on how to make chocolate. He lives at home, having the first floor for himself and he makes a living from making and selling chocolate. He said that it provided a good opportunity for his creativity, making chocolates and packages.

    Like Galffis, he makes personalised chocolates for companies, weddings, anniversaries, etc.

    During our visit, a machine was mixing liquid chocolate by letting a wheel somehow lift it upward from a vessel (maybe because of adhesion), then letting it fall down through a chute back to the same vessel, forming an infinite loop. This machine is called a chocolate tempering machine and it is used for making the chocolate crisp and smooth.

    Receiving molten chocolate from a chocolate tempering machine

    He put a small plastic bowl below where the liquid chocolate was falling down and filled it partly up. Next, he poured its contents onto his marble workbench where he used two spatulas to pick it up and put it back in order to avoid crystallisation.

    Working the molten choclate with two spatulas to prevent crystallisation

    When the still liquid chocolate had got the consistency he wanted, he poured it into two adjacent moulds, then he hit it against the workbench in order to get rid of bubbles and make it fill all voids. Finally, he put dried fruits on the surface of the chocolate and put the chocolate in a freezer.

    Pouring molten chocolate in a mould

    For those who want to know more about crystallisation in chocolate and even more, can watch this video.

    He has a lot of chocolate types, like a lactose free chocolate, red chocolate with strawberries, chocolate with mint and lemon and chocolate with garlic and onion, Christmas chocolates with oranges and nuts, etc. Naturally, he has white, milk and dark chocolate.

    He has many wishes like going to markets with his chocolates, making chocolate with brandy, focusing on development, expanding his business and preparing a big inventory for Christmas.

    From Easter to summer is a quiet period, meaning he can do experiments. Instead, from September to Christmas he’s selling much. His products are mostly used as gifts.

  • Galffi Dezső – designer and chocolate maker

    Some of the chocolates made at this company

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    We entered the café of Galffis chocolate and asked the salesclerk to tell Mr Galffi that we had arrived for our appointment. While waiting, we could have a look at his café, where customers could have any coffee or tea they wanted together with all the standard chocolates made by Galffis. We could also watch videos from various exclusive resorts together with relaxing music.

    Anyway, when Mr Galffi arrived, he was immediately available for an interview. Starting with the videos, they were generic for making people relax and groups of customers or companies can have workshops in the café. He uses his last name together with an s at the end, which interestingly signifies genitive in both Norwegian and Hungarian.

    10 years ago, he worked for his father’s company, but he didn’t like it and he wanted to make a living from chocolate. He did this by buying cocoa by means of his salary and making chocolate at night. Next, he started selling chocolate on a Friday and on Sunday he had five times as much money as much as when he started on Friday. He reinvested the money in chocolate-making, quit his job and started making chocolate full time.

    He’s a self-made man, he did all by himself in the beginning and he started from nothing. His motto is that if you have something good, someone will want to buy it.

    Although he had hardly any money when he started, his attitude was that all problems are solvable, he needed to find the persons who wanted to buy his product and he needed to know how to make it. In order to learn how to make, sell and serve chocolate, he visited chocolate manufacturers.

    Actually, he set himself three targets before founding a chocolate company:
    1. Know the history of chocolate, where does it come from and where is it going?
    2. How to make it.
    3. How to sell it.

    When he started selling his chocolate, his customers liked it, but they thought it was too expensive. In order to counteract their opinion, he has kept the same price for 10 years, selling more chocolate with time because he’s able to produce more.

    Mr Galffi is both an artist and a director and he designs chocolates with labels for anyone as long as they are willing to buy a minimum amount of 50 kg of the special chocolate. He thinks chocolate is more than food and he wants to create feelings like: the taste of cold, sunshine, forests, Hargitha county, tourism, Romania, clean air in Transilvania or whatever his customers might prefer. In addition to designing chocolates, he’s designing labels and packages on his computer in his office about 5 minutes walk from the café.

    He’s got an order from the Romanian government for which he’s making a special design. During our visit in his factory, we could see special designs for a telecom conference in Budapest, Bosch Engineering Center, Danubius Health Spa Resort and World Championships in Budapest. I must admit that I think this is pretty impressive for a young man of about 30 years of age!

    Now he has 7 employees, he opened this café in 2019 and it was designed by himself and a colleague. The company has a flat organisation where everyone can do everything and the director can replace everyone (one at a time) in time of need.

    All the chocolate made by this company is natural and no additives are used. He buys dried berries from producers and he uses a lot of them on his chocolates. He buys cocoa from importing companies because his company is too small to buy direct.

    His company produces white, milk and dark chocolate with a cocoa content from 35% to nearly 100%.

    In addition to designing chocolate, labels and packages, a lot of time is spent talking to his customers. He didn’t say anything about directing the company, though and I forgot to ask about it.

    We also visited his factory, but since we arrived in the afternoon, there was no chocolate production, only a female employee who was packing chocolate.

    The café is located next to a rather busy road and there is space for customers both inside and outside. Moreover, there is parking space for some cars.

    I really hope he will succeed in going on designing chocolates, labels and packages, enriching the world at the same time.

  • Chocolates de Mendaro – chocolate producer

    Mixing chocolate

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    Chocolates de Mendaro is a small company, which was founded and has been owned by the Saint-Gerons family for generations. The story starts during the First Carlist War, a civil war in Spain from 1833 to 1839, when the Frenchman Bernardo Saint-Gerons, who was married to a local woman, founded a company for importing and selling colonial products like cacao, vanilla, coffee  and sugar in the Basque country. Later his son, Juan Maria, went to Bilbao in order to learn how to produce chocolate. Then, he set up a mill in Mendaro in 1850 where his descendants still produce chocolate manually following traditional recipes.

    Initially, whole cocoa beans were imported and a donkey was used to rotate a mill for grinding the beans into cocoa mass, then an electric motor substituted horse power, while nowadays they aren’t allowed to grind cocoa beans any more. Instead, they buy raw chocolate  from a company in Valencia. The cocoa beans come from Venezuela, Ivory Coast and Ecuador, while sugar comes from the area of Alava in the South of the Basque Country and the adjacent province of Burgos. They are also using honey, which they buy from a beekeeper in Getaria located near Mendaro, as a sweetener.

    Cacao beans were brought to Spain by Christopher Columbus in 1502, but it didn’t have any impact. Shipments of cocoa seeds to Spain started in the 1520s. The first documentary evidence of chocolate in Spain comes from a delegation of Dominican monks led by Fray Bartolomé de las Casas, who travelled to the Iberian Peninsula in 1544 to visit Prince Philip, future Emperor Philip II.

    The story of chocolate apparently goes back millennia, bu the earliest written document is the Dresden Codex made by Maya Indians dating to the thirteenth or fourteenth centuries. As described here and here, the Mayans drank a liquid made from crushed cocoa beans, chili peppers and water. When the Aztecs conquered a large part of Mesoamerica in the 1300s, they imposed a tax, consisting of cocoa beans, on the Mayans.

    As regards the meaning of chocolate: The English word ‘chocolate’ comes ultimately from the Nahuatl word chocolatl, an edible substance made from, amongst other ingredients, the seeds of the cacao tree. When the first Spanish explorers encountered chocolatl in Central America, they apparently mixed it up with the word cacahuatl, the name of a drink made from cacao.  However, as suggested here, the Spanish conquistadors didn’t want to use the word cacahuatl because “caca” is a vulgar Spanish word for feces. Certainly, the conquistadors encountered Indians, like the Aztecs, who were  drinking cold chocolate liquor and using cocoa beans as a form of currency in the early 1500s.

    From the outside, the chocolate mill looks like any brick house in this area apart from a large sign with the text Chocolates 1850 Mendora, but having entered, the owner Maria Saint-Gerons led us first to their small shop, which was full of their exquisite products, then we entered the workshop where Ana Mari, who had worked for the same company for 25 years, and a woman colleague were dipping small pieces of chocolate in hot chocolate, then rolling them in cocoa powder. Last but not least, the the whole workshop was immersed in a pleasant flavour of chocolate. Besides, it was quiet and it seemed like nothing was rushed, making it a wonderful place to work

    As noted on the web site of this company, chocolate is a mixture of sugar and cocoa. Two products are derived from cocoa beans: cocoa paste, which is dark brown and bitter, and cocoa fat which is yellow. According to the proportion of paste and fat mixed with sugar and ingredients such as milk, or dried fruits, different types of chocolate are produced such as auburn, milk or white chocolate.

    Interestingly, there were three machines in the workshop, each of them mixing either hot white, milk or dark chocolate by letting a wheel somehow lift the hot chocolate upwards, then letting it fall down through a chute back to the vessel from which the wheel had lifted the hot chocolate, forming an infinite loop.

    Changing tasks, Ana Mari mounted three moulds on a plate, then she held each mould under the chute which let the hot chocolate fall down continuously. After having filled all the moulds and scraped away superfluous hot chocolate, she put nuts in the hot chocolate, then stored them in a cool place such that the hot chocolate would turn solid.

    Next, she put a bowl under one of the chutes at a time, filling one bowl with hot white chocolate, one with hot milk chocolate and one with hot dark chocolate. Then, she poured the contents of all of them onto a stone table and mixed them with a spatula. Having mixed the hot chocolates, she held another bowl under the table and scraped hot chocolate such that it flowed down into the bowl. Having stirred the mixture thoroughly, she poured the hot chocolate into a mould and scraped away excess chocolate. Finally, she stored the mould in a cool place.

    Ana Mari also showed us how to make chocolate bars for «chocolate a la taza», the Spanish hot chocolate, when she put a dark and very dense chocolate mass in the mill, which had been used from the 1850 to grind cocoa beans. Below the upper millstone, there were a set of wooden rollers and , according to a newspaper clipping on the wall, the millstones had never been replaced, while the rollers had been replaced because they add flavour to the chocolate . When she turned on the electric motor, the upper millstone was rotated, forcing the rollers to rotate at the same time, compressing the chocolate. After having compressed the chocolate mass, she picked up pieces of chocolate mass with a spatula and put them one by one into moulds. Next, she put the moulds on a shaker table to shake them as well. Until recently, she had to do it manually instead. A film showing this process can be watched here.

    This company produces a wide variety of chocolates, as can be seen here.

    The products include

    Their products are sold in specialty shops in Donostia, Bilbao and Mendaro.

  • Chocolate-making course

    sjoko_w500

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    I went recently to a chocolate-making course in order to find out how it’s made. The course was one of many events, which took place during the annual Eco-week in the town where I live.

    The word “chocolate” entered English from Spanish, but it’s uncertain how the word entered Spanish. Anyway, what is not in doubt is that Spanish soldiers, called conquistadors , encountered Indians, like the Aztecs,  who were certainly drinking cold chocolate liquor and using cocoa beans as a form of currency in the early 1500s.

    The course was held in the kitchen of a local school having enough space for all the participants, about 15 in all. The course was run by a young couple who have started their own company called Økosjokolade, which means Eco-chocolate. They started their company in 2008 buying cocoa directly from farmers in Peru who grow Criollo cocoa trees organically. Only about 5-10% of the world’s chocolate is made from Criollo cocoa because Criollo trees have a low resistance to diseases. Instead, it has been replaced with Forastero and Trinatario trees.

    The customers of Økosjokolade consist mainly of people who want to know as far as possible what they are eating, consisting of ingredients which have been grown without using pesticides and modified as little as possible, possibility to select their own sweeteners and that the producers have been paid pay fairly for their work.

    The products of Økosjokolade include, among other things, the following:
    cocoa butter,  which is extracted by compressing cocoa beans  and cocoa powder, which is made by  grinding beans after they have been compressed.
    – sweeteners like agave syrup and yacón syrup. nut butter of cashew, pecan, almond and others.
    – nuts and dried fruit like dates, walnuts, raisins and many others.
    – moulds for chocolate and confectionery.

    In short, they sell everything to make your chocolate whatever your taste and preferences.

    After the introduction, we formed teams of 2 and 3, finding a recipe at each workplace. First, we should weigh exact amounts of chocolate powder and chocolate butter on a digital scales. We put both in a glass bowl and we poured hot water in another bowl, then putting the first bowl into the first one, letting the hot water melt the cocoa and stirring carefully until everything had been turned into chocolate liquor. After having poured the liquor into a mould, we  grated the peel of an orange over the chocolate liquor, giving its surface orange spots and putting it in a freezer in the end.

    During the break, we were shown how to make chocolate balls rolled in liquorice, which we were immediately served.

    After about one hour we took them out again. Since we had made so much, we could taste the chocolates of the other participants. Some of the chocolates contained various mixtures of nuts, while other ones contained dried fruits and berries.  A real treat! The best of all was that we had made so much chocolate that we could bring samples of all the chocolates back home.

    The Økosjokolade company have the following three bases: fair trade, organic cocoa cultivation and wholesomeness.

    • Fair trade: buying cocoa products direct from a cooperative in Peru and paying the farmers fairly. Moreover, the cocoa beans are transformed into cocoa powder and cocoa butter by the cooperative, letting as much income as possible stay locally and avoiding middlemen.
    • Organic cultivation: avoiding pesticides and insecticides, some of which may be forbidden from use in developed countries and exported to poor countries.
    • Wholesomeness: by making one’s own chocolate, it’s possible to keep the healthy effects of cocoa and replace sugar and any other possibly harmful ingredients with better alternatives.

    If you want to make drink using cocoa as one of the ingredients, the following recipe can be used for making horchata.

  • Szabó Béla – chocolate maker

    sjoko_w500

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    The chocolate workshop of Béla Szabó and his wife is located next to their house, which he inherited from his parents Initially, they both worked as waiters during communism, but after the Iron Curtain was broken in 1989, there were no sweets available and there was a demand for chocolate, which could be met by small-scale producers of chocolate. Now, 25 years later, chocolate is readily available from multinational companies, but fortunately some people still prefer chocolates made by hand.

    There was no activity in the workshop during our visit because they had made two prism-shaped chocolates a short time before our arrival.

    When Mr Szabó and his wife start making chocolate, they boil water and sugar for 3 hours on a wood-fired oven. Then, they add cocoa powder, dry milk powder and margarine together with walnuts from Romania. When the chocolate is ready, they pour the it into moulds, having to wait 12 hours to cool down, Finally, they cut it up with a knife and put the pieces in small plastic bags.

    They need to always use the same ingredients in order to keep the same taste, else their customers start complaining. Anyway, the production of chocolate is small and adaptable such that they can modify their product should a need arise.

    Mr Szabó brings his products himself to various small shops where their chocolates are sold.