Tag: ham

  • Nagy Géza – butcher

    A picture of cold cuts made at the butchery
    Cold cuts made at the butchery

    Photo gallery

    Map reference

    We went to the the butchery of Nagy Géza, which looked liked any house from the outside. After about 80 visits to small-scale producers in Romania, the one thing they have in common is that they are unpretentious.

    Having entered, we were led to a room where three men were cutting up pig’s meat with knives. Surprisingly, they didn’t wear gloves. In fact, there was nothing that protected them them against severe cuts!. When I asked my guide about it, the man in in charge said that they only would use safety gloves if they had to. Fortunately, they hadn’t had any accidents so far.

    Photo of the butchers at work
    The butchers at work

    Cutting meat with razor-sharp knives, working methodically in silence, everybody knowing exactly what to do, they made it look easy, but that was because they were so good at it. One tragicomic thing about this was that there wasn’t even a first-aid kit where they were working, while the women, who were preparing food, had one!

    All the premises looked clean, there were tiles on the floor and on the lower part of the walls. Likewise, the workers wore clean clothes and clean aprons.

    Thighs of pigs were hanging from the ceiling and the workers were cutting them up, sorting meat and fat into plastic boxes. The skin was put in a separate box, fat in another one, the best meat was separated, while the lowest quality meat was for sausages. Separating bones and meat was done quickly and easily.

    Picture of meat-cutting
    Cutting meat

    They have to work hard to satisfy demand because many people like their products even though they can buy cheaper meat products from big factories.

    Picture of freshly cut meat
    Freshly cut meat

    The boss learnt the trade from his grandfather and his brother. In fact, he was part of a family who had been butchers for generations.

    Picture of lard
    Lard

    Those who want to be butchers need to start when they are about 16 years old. Unfortunately, they didn’t have any apprentices at the moment. In general, adolescents don’t want to do this type of work. There is a training course for budding butchers, but it is difficult for beginners.

    Now they can buy equipment like special knives in a shop nearby, but before it was difficult to get the knives they needed. Likewise, before they didn’t have a refrigerated car, but they have one now. They deliver meat products to customers within a 60km radius.

    The nearest slaughterhouse is 60 to 70 km away.

    There are 8 workers here and it is a family company. They want to expand it and turn a former barn into a butchery.

    One of the workers work here part-time, else he works as an organist and sings in a church. The other one has small children, boy and girl, but they are too small to work here. He will try to persuade them as they get older. The wife and daughter of the boss work in the kitchen.

    There is one big butchery with which they have good relations. The owner of another butchery died, one of his workers have bought it and wants to run it. Else, there are plenty of small producers, who operate illegally. They slaughter a pig and cut it up at once in an ad-hoc operation.

    Before, the man in charge worked with cow and calf meat, but not any more. Now, he only works with pig’s meat and he doesn’t want to mix types of meat. He doesn’t like horse meat and he doesn’t want to work with it. Some of the villagers ask him to cut up sheep or cows, but he does it only for them and never under his brand name.

    They have a smoke room for smoking their products and a cooler room for storage. They let the meat mature for a month by hanging from meat hooks in the cooler rooms. This is costly for the butcher, but good for the quality of the meat.

    Picture showing suspended cold cuts
    Suspended cold cuts

    Some meat products are smoked and some are dried and smoked.

    Picture of smoked meat products
    Smoked meat products

    Moreover, some meat was lying in brine where the salt in the brine enters the food leading to that bacteria are killed.

    Photo of meat lying in brine
    Meat in brine

    They make meat products like salami, bacon, black pudding, cold cuts, sausages and ham.

    Before we left, the man in charge kindly served us a collection of their products. Black pudding was not for me, else it was delicious.

  • Nardi farm and butcher’s shop

    Web site

    Map reference

    Photo gallery

    This company was founded by the father of Mr. Nardi in 1952. It was a great surprise to find a squeaky clean butcher’s shop with a large variety of meat products in a small town like Pescia Romana.

    An abundance and variety of meat products in the glass counters and a wide variety of hams suspended from the ceiling. All the products were well lit such that any defect would be immediately visible.

    Some of the products avaialble at this shop include, but is not limited to, the following:
    ⦁ rib-eye steak of heifer (costata di manzetta)
    ⦁ boiled heifer meat (bollito di manzetta)
    ⦁ straccetti of heifer (stracceti di manza)
    ⦁ braised veal (osso buco)
    ⦁ rond steak (girello)
    ⦁ bacon
    ⦁ pork sausages with salt and pepper
    ⦁ tagliatella of heifer consisting of heifer meat, paté of lard from Maremma, salt, pepper and natural flavours
    ⦁ meatballs of ground heifer meat with salt, pepper, garlic, potatoes, parsley, egg and bread crumbs
    ⦁ ham
    ⦁ meat of wild boar

    After having showed us the workshop inside the shop, Mr. Nardi kindly showed us the basement where various cooling rooms were full of pork thighs, hams and sausages suspended from the ceiling.

    In order to make a ham from pork, one has to follow a rigid procedure and the following points give a general idea of what’s required:

    ⦁ Isolation: select some pigs, which are suited to being slaughtered, given their health, weight, gender and age.
    ⦁ Cooling: the thigh has to stay for 24 hours in a refrigerated cell around 0°C.
    ⦁ Trimming: remove parts of the fat and the pork rind in order to make a round form of the thigh.
    ⦁ Salting: put humid salt on the parts of the pork rind, while the lean parts should be covered with dry salt. Next, put    the thigh in a cool cell with a temperature of 4°C and about 80% relative humidity. Bring it out out the cold room and remove the residual salt, apply a thin layer of salt to the surface and put the thigh in another cold room.
    ⦁ Rest: remove the residual salt and lay the thigh in a room with 75% relative humidity and a temperature between 1 and 5°C where it has to stay for at least two months.
    ⦁ Washing and drying: remove the remaining salt and let the the thigh dry in a well-ventilated room.
    ⦁ Pre-aging: remove the remaining salt and suspend the thigh such that it’s hanging freely. Use the humidity inside or let it stay in a well-ventilated room.
    ⦁ Larding: cover the muscular parts with lard, a mixture of pig fat with a little salt and crushed pepper and sometimes rice flour. This procedure is done in order to make the surface of the muscular parts softer, avoiding too rapid drying of the surface.
    ⦁ Aging: the thigh is suspended in a room with controlled temperature and relative humidity for at least a year.

    Mr Nardi told us that his company were raising Maremmana cattle near the butcher’s shop and he was willing to accompany us there. After about 5 minutes drive, we arrived at the farm where two herds of Maremmana cattle were living inside enclosures, partly covered by roofs. Their diet consisted of hay, alfalfa, corn, cereals, barley and beans.

    The enclosure looked large such that the animals were free to move under open sky or under a roof. Moreover, the farm is surrounded by wide open spaces and a few houses, which ensures a quiet and peaceful atmosphere in spite of being close to the Tyrrhenian sea, which is frequented by numerous people in summer.

    Maremmana cattle is rustic and frugal, resistant against diseases and difficult weather and it adapts itself to find something to eat even in droughts.

    Maremmana cattle have been used as domestic animals for centuries in Maremma. It has excellent meat and it can work for hours. Given their robust characteristics, it was used as a beast of burden for pulling carts filled with goods and people and for working the land. In fact, there was a group of painters at the end of the 19th and the beginning of the 20th centuries, called macchiaoli, who specialised in painting Maremmana cattle at work.

    Even today there are cowboys called butteri who enter enclosures on horseback, selecting the cattle most suited for being slaughtered. After having been rounded up, the animals enter a corridor leading to the slaughterhouse. This passage lasts a very short time, maybe a few minutes, which hopefully lets the animals be as relaxed as possible when they are finished off.

    Next, butchers transform the meat into products, which are sold in the butcher’s shop as described above.

  • Ioska Ficzay – butcher

    ioska_w500

    Map reference

    Photo gallery

    We met Ioska in his own restaurant being located near an abandoned salt mine, but after parts of it collapsed, the former hill above the mine has been replaced with a lake with tourist facilities nearby. In fact, Ocna Sugatag was an important salt mining centre from the 14th century onwards; and the salt from the mines was brought by raft down the Tisa river and then on the Danube river.

    Being generous like lots of Romanians, we got a wide selection of his meat products together with water and the obligatory local spririts.

    Talking to my guide, he said that his father was a butcher and he has carried on the family tradition. He also has his own farm where he’s raising pigs, sheep, cows and buffaloes, ensuring a steady supply of fresh meat, but he also buys meat from other producers.

    His products include 15 types of sausages, of which the most popular are kishka, a blood sausage using pig’s intestines as a casing and filling it with pig’s blood and various grain stuffings.

    Ioska smokes his meat products by means of wood shavings from beech, plum trees, and hornbeam. For salting the meat, he leaves it in salt water for 2-3 weeks, then smoking it inside for 2-3 days.

    He’s selling his products in Maramures, and at various fairs in Romania. He’s working on introducing a variety of prosciutto, a type of dry-cured ham, using a secret recipe from his father.